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Posts posted by BurnsideBanshee
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Yes?Smh
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Choice, so criticize. But this will do me a better bore this year. Next year will be new large cycliders.
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Absolutely lolDo you need to bore all the way 65.5?
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Golden info man thank you.300 main 45 pilot
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Yes? Pootie tang, where?
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That's a starting point atleast. My buddy just got his running today, almost the same set up besides stock carbs and t5s. So with a little more research I should get it within range.Might be able to find a few people in here with close to that setup http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?/topic/99361-what-jets-are-you-using-fill-out-this-form/, im not really familiar with those carbs too much, more of a keihin guy.
+5 timing your high altitude and 97 octane is a pretty rare combination compared to most setups also.
I would say main somewhere 280-300ish and pilot should be around 30.
Dont hold me to that too much, im sure someone else on here might get you a closer idea. But definitely best to start rich rather then lean and work your way down.
Our one and only local shop could do it, but wheres the fun there?
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Jugs getting bored from just over stock to 65.50.
T6's
32mm flat mikunis
+5 timing
Will be running premium 97.
1100 ft elevation.
Temp, spring to summer? 70 to top 100.
Stock port.
Thats all the performance mods.
Running stock air box currently. Hopefully will have pod filters by the time that the jugs are finished And its time to rejet. (Not sure how much difference this will make).
What am i looking at here? First time having to actually replace these. Anyone willing to at least get me within the ball park would be greatly appreciated.
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This thread shouldn't be in the jetting and exhaust part *
I was a little confused as well, Is the exhaust connected through your bars?
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Looking to see if anyone has some decent pods to fit some 32mm flatslide mikunis, Outerwears to match would be nice to.
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Either find somewhere to sell them as is fully working machines, make something out of them to sell them. Or again just end up taking the lot to the scrap yard and getting scrap prices. Some rich doctors idea, but he can't keep his mind made up on them.
Might find something to do with them.
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We was swimming in these things last year and just kept using them for random junk.
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It looks like you have the engine just sitting on the lazy susan.
It would be better if you could have it actually mount to it.
The yellow knob, is that to lock it in place from twisting?
JDS makes an stand already looks something like this. It allows you to bolt the engine to it and raise/lower the height and twist it.
When you work on an engine, it is nice to have it bolted to something so it is solid and you can put force on it to take parts off.
http://www.jdscustoms.com/product/yamaha-banshee-engine-stand/#
Yeah it's just sitting on it for cleaning.it's actually just a salvaged part from these work out machines. We have about 20 that are brand new but being scrapped.
The engine stand wouldn't be hard to modify like that at all.
I've been trying to find a way to modify the other type we have to do that but with the whole bike.
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Haha no worries it's keeping people coming back.I am sorry for ruining your thread, but just want to make sure you get the correct info. Welding 3 pieces together to get a single straight bar will not be stronger than a single piece bar.
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I think this is pretty much it.Can we just have a thread for Zilla vs. AtvMan?
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Yeah that's where it's supposed break, our final was a tigged dog bone that was pushed to breaking. And if your weld went you faild.
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I'm the form of roll cage and frame joints tho, not sure on the shearing strength of extended on piece.
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Actually when I was being taught tig the weld should actually be stronger than the metal.
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Dam, ill send it from the home comp later.
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Someone let me know if this little video worked or not, and would anyone be interested in something like this? Or possibly one for an entire bike?
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No my boss hasn't said anything about this, it's still a thought In the air.Explain your reasoning. A gusset is a simple piece ground to fit.
Don't try to tell us your boss said extending swingarm is good idea. In addition to extra/unneeded unsprung weight, the new joints at point of highest stress/forces.
Holding swing arm true for welding is same whether new or extended.
BUT, by the time you add sleeves/Fitch plates, you've got a nice boat anchor. Unsprung weight kills this idea.
But we do sometimes weld together smaller pieces to save on raw stock.
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I do not have chromoly equipment.I have to laugh at your swingarm idea. Ten seconds with your boss and you'd have the answer to that.
You have equipment and ability to do cro-mo?
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You know thats not ever going to stop haha.Oh fuck an UNOH flag fag! They still racing around CP like it's a fucking track?
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There are tons of threads out there with some pretty off the wall stuff that should give you some ideas. Snoop around a little bit. Just take your time with everything and think it through.
Absolutely why im here and not just diving in lol.
BansheeHQ 60th Anniversary Pre-Order
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