AlwaysBroken04

Had my cylinders bored .040 over and the machinist chattered the left cylinder and had to put a LA sleeve in it (the right side was just bored no sleeve) using a temp gun I noticed the left cylinder runs a little hotter than the right...Is this from the sleeve or tuning?

Just turn the idle screws all the way in then back them out with the same amount of turns until it idles or? Could the carbs sticking be from carb slide friction (black marks on slides?) or weak springs pushing them down? I tightened the caps all the way down...does that adjustvthem? Sorry for sounding like an idiot...first Banshee

I will check the cables, check float needles and adjust float height tomorrow...Thanks guys...With the tors boxes still on carbs (dissconnected) is there a simple way to set idle? Because I noticed with a temp gun (during the 3 mins I ran it after new top end for the first heat cycle before I noticed the gas leak) that the left cylinder was running hotter that the right side...sync issue?

Also they are stock carbs with TORS dissconnected #280 main jets .040 over toomey t6 pipes toomey 2-1 open air filter

Is it a tuning issue? (they don't seem sync'd) I don't know...

I bought a banshee with a bad top end, New top end is in and the carb over flow tubes leak gas and the throttle is sticking (I cleaned carbs with carb cleaner before reinstallation) carbs leaked when I got it too....Now I'm out of ideas (also carb slides have black on them that won't come off?)

I'm looking for some local reed spacers message me if you have some and I'll come pick them up

I was really hoping to pick some up today but if I can't I'll let you know.

I need some boots that go from the reed cage to the carbs...Factory or factory fitment as I'm running stock carbs I live in St Paul, MN and would prefer local pickup. Thanks