rbalthas

The vent hose is the little black one that's next to the water pump/radiator line? That line Tee's off and goes down to the case and up towards the radiator. If I disconnect the line from the pump at the Tee I will need to plug the Tee right? Not sure with what I have lying around I'd be able to do that with. Or are you saying pull that line out of the case from the pump area? (I'm not gonna mess stuff up by pulling that out and then pushing it back in?) Is there more to pulling the clutch cover out then draining?

I'll have to work on that. The site don't allow for direct uploads. You guys use image shack and all those fun things

What do you mean "with the pro gear." You mean with torque and removal sequence specs or is there something else at work here that I'm oblivious to. (Side note: I don't have the book with torque specs and tightening sequence)

Sounds expensive. I'm an on a budget guy and was hoping to pick up some used works or elkas for the +2 arms that are on my bike. Couldn't tell you the brand of the arms as they were on the bike when I acquired it and can't seem to find a company print on them.

For +2 arms do I have to get an extended suspension column? Do the aftermarket products vary in length from the dealers or do I have to buy the extended rod/springs for the suspension after the original purchase of the new product. Example: I buy an Elka/works, will it fix or do I have to buy an additional rod/spring for it afterwards.

So I've assembled my testing kit (freeze plugs, gauge, pump, ect). My question is what do I remove from the motor block before applying the air pressure into the case? I remove the stator cover? I remove the gear/tranny oil? I remove the clutch/water pump cover? Coolant connections & fluid I can keep in?

For fattys I considers getting a welder, but wasn't sure if I needs to find an aluminum welder. Might be harder to find

Correction: need LEFT (didn't think i drank that much yet) *if an admin wants to edit heading or delete so I can re-post correctly please do.

Wanted. Mine has a crack on the mounting bracket. Pm with price shipped.

So 30 for cages, 60 for reeds, and 10 for gaskets. 100 vs 200's. I might as well get new and cringe a little, but then i know its solid. I try to budget but every once in a while i just have to close my eyes and click buy.

30 bucks for vf3's? I've seen them but at around the same price as 4's. where's this 30 coming from

vf3's over the vf4's? I asked since I'm about to buy them

I love the PT pipes Sheerider11, they look beast. I've only seen them once locally on a 4mill and thought they were sick. Are those stock reeds in your second photo (with the browned edge)?

Mix with stable and run every other week if possible. If not gonna run it then do as they all say, run stable through, drain everything, and add oil. But packed snow is fun as shit to ride on! I'd go with kicking over that bitch

Assuming that my problem lies with my reeds and the reed cage, why not get new one's right. So are VForce4's worth the money/good bang for buck? Any other brands I should look into for pit riding in NE?

Hey this might be a little off topic but involves the wiring. My tail light flickers always, idle or high rpm, brake on or not. Any idea whats messed with my wiring?

Your last run looked real sweet. Do you run the NEHA circuit or something?

Tech problems explained here: http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=169011&hl= Anyone ever ride templeton/hubbardston area? I'd be down for meeting up with people once my shees alright again

I ride worcester county MA, I'd travel if I had a decent place to go. I've heard of jericho, never been there. And I've heard of that camp closing, sucks. There is a park in pittsfield MA where you can camp and ride. I've never gone there either though, not sure if anyone on here has. Any New Englanders decent Techs?

Best I can tell you is worcester county, MA. Thats a place I used to ride and if your looking for a sand pit thats the best you'll get in state that I know of. It does attract EPA though. Otherwise CT and RI are too urban, lower NH and VT I havent found anything yet. ME and NY are still misteries to me. If your willing to travel to NJ/PA you should find some fun places.

Shame its that weekend. Thats only an hour from my house, but I'll be in NY with the woman. James_21 any chance your good at diagnostics. My shees been a little off since i got her out of winterization

I'll try to run one when i have free time. Would the crank seal make her unable to idle? The knock is more like a ting and its definitely from the top end. It is also inconsistance and not in rhythm. This has me believing that the right is not firing equal to the left and that it could be electrical, but the ting makes me think worn rings. It's frustrating.

Long time reader first time poster. So heres the deal, She's an 04 banshee that was rebuilt about 4 years ago top and bottom. Do to me not being able to ride her in that time (college & stuff) she's only been started to perform scheduled maintenance and winterizing. Now that I've graduated and my buddy bought a place near the pits I'm looking to welcome her back into my life. She started up this summer on the third kick after winterization. Every start since then this summer has been on the first or second kick. Problem: She smokes heavily out of the right side and I hear a mild knock on the right. This appears to be persisting through higher RPMs as I rev her in idle. She also has difficulty keeping idle. She starts great and will idle for as long as i let her, but if I kill her and kick her again she will only idle for a few seconds then die off. I would think this is a worn top end but the left is so strong and she starts so easily, so i dont know. I'm looking to grap a compression test and run both sides as soon as i can. Exhaust on both sides appears equal by feel**. Mods include: Wiseco pistons, hotrods crank, Trinity 2-to-1 carb setup, full FMF pipes, K&N filter, Moose Racing stator, and stage 3 CDI. **Damages: left silencer has a crack on the forward mount that allows for exhaust to leak out.