racerdonnie13

Still for sale... $2800 Does NOT include billet clutch basket or the rdz high hp springs anymore.

Im gonna stick with the ones i have on there for this season. Next year i may need a couple more paddles.....

Yea man, that would be cool. Dont think ill be able to make the July trip this year, but we are planning to go in september for a drag race event.

Thanks guys. There are videos of me running it on my youtube channel...same screenname

Im looking to build a stock frame banshee dragger for my wife, so its time to to let the drag blaster go. I built this bike at the beginning of last year so everything only has one season on it. (about 8 races) All parts were stripped down to bare metal, checked, cleaned and repainted. The bike ran flawless all season long with no issues. Here is what all is done to it. Fastest time i have ran with this setup was a 5.07 @ 60mph (300ft, Newtown dragway) I believe this bike has some high 4's with some more tuning and a light jockey. Asking $3000 or trade for banshee, banshee drag motor, or drag banshee rolling chassis. Trades + money (from either me or you) considered for non equal trades. - lightened frame - 1-5 Tyson override tranny - RDZ lock up clutch - billet clutch basket (not installed but comes with bike) - RDZ high HP clutch springs ( not installed but comes with bike) - lightened flywheel - adjustable timing plate - 05 blaster axle with rear disc brakes and all new carrier bearings and seals - banshee hubs with all new bearings and seals - lightweight douglas wheels - front skinny tires - Skat trak 20" 10 paddle extremes - Shearer custom pipes out of frame chrome drag pipe - CT racing 240 cylinder kit (73mm bore) fully drag ported and custom cut head by Flotek Racing - vitos 3mm crank with new crank bearings and seals - chromoly custom built +6 swingarm - front and rear custom chromoly adjustable struts - 40mm lectron carb (runs on methonal) - high flow pingle fuel valve - custom wheelie bar thats fully adjustable for tire size - tether kill switch - twist throttle - custom seat cover on shaved down seat - Vforce 3 reeds (uses 250R cage and reeds) - all new bearings and seals throughout the motor - custom chromoly steering stem and bars - Nology coil and hot wire

Denny does great work in my opinion. Everyone has their favorites, but im sure you will be happy with it. He did my blaster also, and im more than happy with both bikes. And thanks, a few other people told me about the loose jam not also, Its good and tight now.

Ok so what exactly makes a .118 main? is there a formula for figuring this out? Justin, ill check and see what the timing is set at next time i mess with it.

Thanks man, ill check out that thread. I would be awesome to get a 4.0 out of it.

The pj lines are 1/8". They are regular clippard style pj's. ok ill start with the pilot jets. which way would i turn the air screw to lean it out? how far can i safely go in/out before i need to change jet size? Right now it wont idle even with the idle screws all the way in. I synced the carbs and made sure the slides bottomed all the way out.

Ok ill try that. How will i know if in getting too lean?

So i started out saturday with 55 pilots, air screw 1&1/2 turns out, needle clip in the middle, 1/8 drilled mains, power jets turned in 1/2 turn from wide open. First pass i couldnt even get it to clean out, so i changed the needle clip to the top notch. ran better but still hard to clean it out. Dropped back to the 50 pilots. Ran alot better after that, but still rich. I turned the power jets in 1&1/2 more turns (making it 2 turns closed from wide open). I was able to take off in second gear with this setting but i had to rev the piss out of it and clean it out really good. I tried to take off in second on the next pass and it bogged off the line. Should i drop my main size? i have 2 more sets of drilled jets, one set is drilled to 7/64 and has 113 stamped into them. The other set is drilled to 3/32 and has nothing stamped on the side. I wanted to get some videos so you guys could see what its doing. if i find some ill post them. I do have a couple pics though.

Im not sure what the dumps are drilled to. ill have to measure them. I have some 113's and 108 mains i could try also. right now ive got the PJ only turned in 1/2 turn from wide open. prolly go in a little more after i make a pass and see what its doing. ill post some pics and vids after the weekend.

Well it was definately an air leak. I have those Boss racing 2 piece intakes, and it was leaking air out as fast as i pumped it in. It was leaking where the carb boot meets the billet piece. Did away with them in favor of some 1 piece intakes. Problem solved. Seems to run pretty good now, but still needs some tuning. I have 2 races this weekend so i should have plenty of time to get her dialed in. I bumped the pilots up to 55 and i set the needles on the middle clip. It wants to barely idle even with the idle screws all the way in, so i think i need to go a little smaller on the pilots and raise my needle clip a notch or 2.

Yea i am beginning to think i have an air leak also. Any good links on how to build a leak tester for a shee? I have one i made for a zilla that i used to have so i already have the guage and stuff.

At idle it has a small bit of alky coming out if i put my hand by the pipes. It has EGN needles. There is no light showing on the sides of the slides. No pump, just gravity fed. Float height is good. ( same in both carbs ). I tried swapping slides also with no noticeable difference. Air screws are 1 & 1/2 turns out. pilots = 50. mains are drilled with a 1/8" bit. #6 slides. EGN needles. Slides are bottomed out then i screwed the idle screws in untill they just started to move up. Today i lowered the clip to the lowest setting. it idles a little lower (but still too high), and it smokes like a freight train from off idle to mid-top. After a few revs it cleans out up top some, but seems rich and boggy down low.

I have ran my drag bike at 2 different drag events, and i was having a problem bogging off the line. Bike is a 358 cub, drag ported, vf3's, lightened flywheel, cpi oof drag pipes, override, lock up...yadda yadda. It has a set of 35 PWK carbs on it (bored to 36 on alky with power jets), and i noticed when i start the bike it sounded like only one cylinder was firing, but when i rev it a few times it revs out fine. I swapped the carbs and the problem switched sides. So i pulled that carb and cleaned it real good. Found clogged pilot. Put back together and still same problem. Pulled it off again and i noticed the "idle" screw was way out on that carb and way in on the other. So i set them the same and when i start it. it idles high, but revs clean. When i come out with the idle screws it still idles high, but it causes a hesitation when i rev. It kinda chokes then picks up and revs. This is with the slides bottomed out. I moved the needle clips from the very top clip (where they were) down to the middle clip, with little to no difference. Anysuggestions where to go from here?

Ide sell just the wheels and tires for $400 plus shipping.

Do you have any pictures? Where are you located?

Looking to swap some drag parts. If trades do not equal in value, im willing to give or accept money to make it even. Ide like to trade my 25" taller haulers for a set of 22" 12, 13, or 14 paddles (prefer extremes). Also want to trade my CPI drag pipes for a set of same side (left) pipes. (prefer SB shearers) Also want to trade my Alky 35PWK's (bored to 36mm with power jets) for a set of 38 alky lectrons. Lke i said i know the carbs, pipes, and tires may not be of equal value but ide be willing to add or accept $$$ to make it even. Ill get better pics of the tires, and pics of the carbs, and pipes tomorrow.

Dern, wish they were 38's.... Good luck with the sale.

Maybe check out the g-force hubs. they might offer something.

I run amsoil dominator in all my two strokes except the alky burners. it wont mix with alky. for those i use klotz super techniplate. Very happy with both oils.

Thanks.

Yes i am Justin! Whole different world!