SSDD

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I'm looking for someone local (McGuire AFB area in NJ) that is interested in swapping engine for engine. I've had a few people express interest, but most seem skeptical. I've never had this motor tore down (it runs) but looking through the plug holes you can read the tops of the pistons. They read 69.95mm, the guy I bought the quad from told me it was a "Trinity Racing 420 stroker". He also said it was "Trail ported"....all I know for CERTAIN is it has a 69mm bore and runs good! It has a billet clutch basket installed as well, I think it's a Hinson. It runs well, but needs a new idler gear bushing installed (upgraded bushing included, as well as a new claw washer and circlip....ordered from F.A.S.T). I'm also including a brand new high output stator and the rear sprocket (45t) that came on the quad when I bought it. What I'm looking for: Stock bore engine that runs good, no older than a '98. You'd have to keep your side covers, kick starter, shift lever as all the stuff for mine is aftermarket and I'm keeping those parts. If you want to check my fleabay rep just search for my seller name: Soulless_specter. This isn't a scam, the motor is not stolen, and it DOES run good. I would just rather have a stock motor for a little more reliability versus a modified motor with more power. I'm not racing anything. You're welcome to bring your own compression tester, I don't own one. I'm looking to swap after the 7th of July, I'll be away from the 3rd till the 6th. If you can swing by BEFORE the 3rd, LET ME KNOW. This is holding up progress on my build. PM me if interested, I'm looking to get this Banshee put back together before Summer is over!

Will do when I get closer to taking on this repair. I've been hearing people tell me there are places to ride ON Ft. Dix. I'm not sure about that, but some neighbors here on base housing have been saying there are trails over near Range 14. I'll have to look into it.

Ok, the only wear I see on the basket at this point is where the clutch fiber/friction plates interlock into the basket itself. It didn't seem excessive though, I'll snap some pics the next time I've got it apart of all the parts that have some wear. Plus, when I've got it all apart I'll be able to inspect the backside of the basket for wear. I've got a ton of crap going on (I build guitars/guns too) and toss in an upcoming road trip to NW Pennsylvania from Central NJ and I'm busy, busy, busy. I really appreciate all the help, I am hoping to have this Banshee running by July sometime. When it comes time I'll REALLY be needing help with the carbs....but I'll save that for a different thread (I'll of course utilize the "search" feature first before asking questions about those). Cheers and enjoy the long overdue weekend everyone!

Yeah, I generally always just replace everything while I've got whatever it is apart...like in this case I'm going to also change the clutch since I'll have it apart. I don't know how old this clutch it...plus it's the kind that has the keyed steel plates. Is that an OEM clutch? I was thinking of buying a heavy duty tusk brand clutch....any experience with them? Also, since we're talking about the idler gear I noticed that about 4 of the teeth have some wear....should I just leave it or replace it? I was thinking it would be fine but I'm not an expert on the internals of the Banshee. You guys know more about these then I do, I have no issues doing repairs if I take it slow and pay attention to what I'm doing. Also, off topic but I dig your avatar. Danny McBride is funny as hell!

Ok! Thanks guys, yep I just got the new circlip and steel bushing from FAST today. The original washer didn't look all chewed up, I was gonna reuse it but you're saying I should just get a new one? If that's what the doctor is prescribing then I'll order a fresh claw washer. Thanks again guys!!!

Hey, anyone know the size of the nut that holds the clutch basket in? I got the clutch plates out and the biggest socket I've got is 21mm. Also, on the flipside I got to lookin' at the clutch basket and it's not OEM....I'm not 100% sure but I think it's a Hinson. Everytime I tear into this bike I find expensive parts....I'm glad I got it! I paid a fraction of the value of the parts used in it. Lol

I was reading various posts about the same issue all over the net, apparently (as I'm certain many of you guys already knew) the groove on the shaft the idler goes on can get f'ed up and cause the circlip to jump off easily. If I find that mine is bad then what is the best course of action aside from splitting the cases and replacing the shaft? The info I got from the previous owner when I bought it is that this engine is stroked to 420cc using Trinity parts...I don't know much about the validity of that but... Basically I'd like to run the engine until it truly needs rebuilt, I'd rather not tear it down until it really needs it. Fingers crossed that the steel bushing for the idler I ordered from FAST (along with the new circlip) does the trick.

I just ordered the replacement bushing and circlip from FAST. Thanks for the help fellas! I hope to have this squared away pretty soon....I'm leaving for a road trip in a few days and will be gone for a bit. I'll look more into this issue once I get back!

Thanks! I've ordered from Dave before, he IS a good guy! I'll probably get the replacement stuff ordered today. I'm not too familiar with the area, I live on base housing across from McGuire AFB. If you're willing to help then I'd be more than happy to get this squared away with ya! Feel free to send me a PM with your addy/number....or you're welcome to swing by my place too!

I've never worked on a clutch before.....so this seems daunting to me. I'm going to have to order a flywheel holder tool, remove the basket and all the friction plates to replace the idler bushing and the circlip. Oi, I certainly wasn't expecting this. I hope there isn't anything else messed up with it.

Ok, I'll check! Thanks for letting me know!!

Definitely. The one I found has some wear on the inside and it's slightly bent. I'm wondering how long it's been like this. I bought the Banshee back in 2006 and never ran it. We got stationed in England for 4 years in 2008, I had started tearing down the Banshee when I got it then got sidetracked. I've never ran it, and now I'm thinking that might be a good thing! It's a wonder that nothing got super f***ed up from the previous owner running it.

Fast? Is there a link (I'm guessing this is a website)?

It MUST belong to the idler gear...I just wiggled it around and yep....it's loose as hell.

Yeah! It looks just like it! Is this common then?

The washer looks like the one that goes on the idler gear.

*Edit to add more info* I JUST looked again and found a washer that has a straight notch in it too! It was sitting near the kickstarter shaft! What the hell! Now I'm concerned.

Hey fellas...I'm still in the middle of my build and pulled the clutch cover today. The oil was nice and clean but there was some grayish sludge (not much) sitting at the bottom, so I cleaned it out then heard a "tink". I had sat the old clutch cover under the engine to catch the drips of oil. When I checked to see what made the sound, I found a small circlip that apparently been sitting in the sludge. It's amazing that it didn't get picked up from all the gears spinning at high RPM in there when the previous owner ran it. Anyhow, the first mention of a circlip that resembles the one I found is on page 179 in the Clymer manual...figure 16. If this is in fact it, how could it have fallen off? I'm thinking it could have been during installation if someone previously did work in there. Any ideas? I'm not putting it back together until I can figure this out. I looked around without taking anything else apart to see if something was missing a circlip and didn't see anything.

After I got to looking at it that is exactly what I was thinking. Yep, I'm going to order fresh boots or maybe stop into the local NAPA or AutoZone and see if they have any that'll work. Lol. Na, I won't take it to heart....gettin' too old for that jazz. That's why I was thinking about getting the Full Flight arms designed for these shocks. Anyway ya want to look at it you either spend a bunch for high end arms....or you spend a bunch for high end shocks. I just dropped $3200 for parts for this beast all in one night....I'm afraid I've got to work with what I've got. I hear a FEW people complain about the 450 shocks....but tons more LOVE them. I wouldn't buy Elka or Fox even if I had the money. I'm not jumping it and the 450 shocks are light years beyond the OEM Banshee shock so it would appear I've got two options. Either someone has a decent set of Works Steelies they want to sell for cheap and I'll keep my LSR arms....or I sell the LSR arms, keep the 450 shocks and get the FF arms made for the 450s. Unless of course "Zilla" wants to Paypal me $2000 so I can order high end arms/shocks.

When I put them in the spindle and tightened them down I thought "Damn....should there be that much space between the joint and the spindle?". Afterwards I searched and found a thread on a totally different forum where a guy was doing a full frame up rebuild like me. He took a good pic of the front of the Banshee and it clearly showed that this gap that mine has. So, I guess once you get the ball joint in the spindle then just tighten it and put in a cotter pin? Job done? That's where I'm hung up at....is it really that simple? I'm expecting all kinds of difficult shite because that is generally how my life works 24/7

YFZ450 shocks aren't "shitty garbage shocks" anymore than the blingstar front bumper is a nice looking bumper. Way to welcome me to the fold amigo. Total kick in the D man.... Also, please explain to me how Full Flight's are junk compared to old generation LSR arms. Oh....and for the record it's MY Banshee...and no I won't sell them for $100. Keyboard warrior. Yes, I know. I'm talking about the ball joints going into the spindle itself....not threading into the arm. As you can see in the photo I already threaded them into the arm.