Mattchev
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Posts posted by Mattchev
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Trying to diagnose some low end / idle issues with this bike. Going through everything possible. Have a couple of different carb bowls for my stock carbs. For my choke side carb, I have a bowl that has a jet in it that you can actually unscrew and take out. And I have a bowl with a jet in it that you cannot take out. The one with the jet has a larger opening. If I blow compressed air into it, it shoots out pretty strong from the other opening. The other bowl with the jet you cannot take out has a lot smaller of an opening. When I blow compressed air, there is more of a restriction when it blows out of the other hole..but still does blow through. Any difference in using either one?
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right now, I have 32.5 pilots. Idle sounds little weak still. When I pull choke out halfway, the idle gets a lot stronger and sounds a lot better.
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Make sure your float height is set correctly. I set mine to around 21mm. Couple YouTube vids on how to adjust and set height. I’ve had this prob before and checked everything electrically , etc. ended up adjusting float height in one carb and fixed issue
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Def check float height!! South Texas banshee and couple others have YouTube vids on how to adjust and set them.
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15 hours ago, Yaxy said:
With the assumption you are using stock carbs a 30 pilot jet should be plenty. From what your stating I would start by
1) Verifying your carbs are in sync by turning your idle screws all the way out and make sure your cables are in sync first, then sync with the idle screws
2) Verify your spark plug gag is not too large, I have experienced idle problems when the spark gap is opened up too much
3) Verify you have Mikuni jets. There is a difference.
Rule of thumb I live by with low end jetting: Run the quad at low rpm in a higher gear, apply throttle wide open quickly. If falls on its face you need more fuel down low and less air.
Chris
Appreciate the info Chris. On your 3rd point about the mikuni jets... how would you tell the difference between a mikuni pilot jet and a pilot that is not mikuni but looks the same?
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2 hours ago, kawa110 said:
I would like those jjh needles.
Lol
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkYou would like them as in you want some? I have some laying around
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I had pretty much this exact setup but was running with the lid off, and ran great. I don’t think it would hurt to go down to 260 and see what she does. Def try to do a plug chop or at least pull them after first ride and see what they look like
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Recently picked up a banshee
mods - fmfs, vforce 3 reeds with new petals, brand new pod filters, TORS delete
Compression just about 150psi on each side
leak down Tested and perfect
got the bike and it had been sitting for long time- ran like shit. Cleaned out carbs really good. There were gold needles , but I replaced them back to stock needles. Pilot jet had no markings on it, so after some research, I started at 30. Bogged off throttle and wanted to die as I unscrewed air mix screw. At .5 turns it idles and revved a little better, so I went up to 32.5 pilot and at about 1.5 turns right now. Main jets were 340. Needle on 2nd clip from top. At sea level.
when coming off throttle, it struggles a little/ wants to stall, but runs great when past that point. If I give it a good rip down the street, when I get to a higher gear/rpm and pull in clutch, the bike will stall.
carbs are synced with sync tool, and carbs are rebuilt with float height about 21mm both sides.
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I’ve been researching for a long time and I can’t find the answers I’m looking for.
looking for some input.
can someone please tell me what markings you would find on the mikuni 26 mm vs the 28mm?
my carb on the side says 2GU 01. I was told these are stock but when I type this number into google, everything about the 28mm comes up.
also, what is length of stock banshee needle and how many grooves are on it?
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Internally, what is happening when bike is turned off, and in gear. You roll the bike but the clutch assembly doesn't move? When you roll the bike in gear, shouldn't clutch want to turn, which would spin crank?
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If it's a stock basket, check to see if the drive gear didn't shear the rivets off the back of the basket.I had it happen once....
what were the symptoms when that happened?
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So when I roll the bike when it's in gear, there is not much resistance. It kinda just rolls almost as if the clutch is pulled. I took out pressure plate and pulled out fibers and steels and checked out inner hub and there were some gashes in it, which may have been keeping the steels to be able to move back and forth
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Yup all fibers and steels, started and ended with fiber. 120% pressure plate is sitting correct..before I put fibers in, I lined it up and made a mark just to be sure. Key way def in pto gear and shift shaft is on star. It clicks through all gears fine.
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Adjusted screw in pressure plate, arrows are lined up good. pressure plate separates good when i pull clutch lever
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yeah all washers were put in correct. Just put in new clutch today and still doing same thing. Checked ball and rod, made sure pressure plate was in right. I have no clue whats goin on
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thrust washers behind the basket?
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yup shift rod and ball in there. i adjusted it with the adjuster on the pressure plate. Will try to clock pressure plate a few more ways, but ive done it three times and it seems to be doing the same thing
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what are some reasons why clutch wont engage??
After bike rebuild, having some clutch issues. Clutches look good, soaked in oil for 45 mins - hour before install. Lined arm and arrow up and adjusted properly. Made sure pressure plate was in tight and flush with last fiber. When i start the bike and put in gear, you cant really feel the bike go into gear like usual. When lever is pulled and bike is in gear, it will want to move when you rev bike, and when you let out the clutch, the bike doesnt want to go anywhere. Any ideas?
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yeah tors removed
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Just want to clear this up. Ive done a ton of reading on the proper way to remove the parking brake. Ive seen a lot of people say that all you need to do is unplug the plug and thats it. Then Ive seen people say that they clipped the Green/Yellow wire, which takes away the rev limiter? Or that people splice the Green/Yellow and black wire together after they unplug. I unplugged mine and it ran like shit which makes me believe that I need to do something else. Any input is appreciated.
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That's a new bore job?
yeah new bore and new piston and rings
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Thats what one of the pistons looked like after I opened it back up to see what was going on.
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Update ::: did leak down test and passed.
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I THINK the smoke was the new oil burning off..
I don't BELIEVE you have a coolant leak..
Look at your carbs.. Did you clean them or disassemble them in ANY way? Did you get the crossover tube between the carbs on correctly?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
did carb rebuild, cleaned them all out real good..jets and everything. crossover tube is there. i thought it was just oil burning off also, but the bike didnt wanna rev high or idle, and the white smoke didnt let up. stayed pretty thick the whole time it was running. i did new crank seals on both sides too which i heard is known for smokey exhaust like that when they go bad.
Carb bowl jet
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Screwing air mixture screw in usually makes it sound better. Also at half choke it idles a lot stronger and sounds a lot better. Without it choked, idle is very weak.