LeroyJones

Maybe lean. Porcelain doesn't look is though. Maybe I'll just shove the 270's back in to be safe. I was hoping I could get a definite answer with the plugs but it's a little more complicated than I thought.

This may be comparing apples to oranges, but this is the same engine running BR8ES and 270 mains. Now that I look at them side by side the BR8ES is a lot cleaner. And the Road Banshee!

This is an RZ350 so the stock compression at sea level is 120psi not 130psi that the banshees are. It has some port work and I live at 2500ft above sea level. That said it's getting 100psi, which is a bit low, but it runs and kicks over fine. I run 40:1 premix and premium gas (91 octane). Timing is stock. I'll post a pic of a WOT run with 270 mains that did.

Did a WOT run. Didn't have enough room to get to 6th gear or 10K. I believe I was in 5th at 8K when I cut the engine. I'm running NGK BR9ES plugs maybe too cold. This is on an RZ350 engine. The ground clip is concerning to me. It look like its losing mill scale? Flecks of metal on ground body? I think the ring on porcelain looks ok buy not great. It's rich (dark black) on one side and lighter on the other side. Just throwing this out there. Looks like more than one thing going on with the plugs.

I'm in the same boat with plugs and jetting. If it was me. I'd go up a size on the mains and do another chop. Or redo this chop and repost also show the ground electrode. The porcelain looks a bit lean. I hate not getting feedback when it comes to jetting.

Hey notsed I may have had my terms mixed up because it was slipping thanks for the response though. Found out why my clutch wasn't fully engaging. The pancake bearing came sandwiched between two washers. Using both washers was prematurely bottoming out the pressure plate. I took out one washer between the pancake bearing and the flange on "Push Rod 1" and now the clutch works without slipping. A couple follow up questions. Is there a longer "Push Rod 2" available? I am not able to get the "Push Lever" to fully actuate. Every time I try to adjust the clutch I bottom out the "Ball" before I get the Push Lever to the mark on the case. When the engine is cold the clutch grabs. I'm using 10W40. I read that this is a common problem even for new engines. Do aftermarket clutches get rid of this problem.

Is it normal to have the clutch slip when torquing down the clutch spring bolts to 7.2 ft. lb. To torque the bolts down without the clutch slipping on me I had to put the motor in gear and jam the drive sprocket. I split the cases without a hitch. The clutch pushrod was trashed on both sides, so I had to grind around the one exposed ends to get it out. Put everything back together upside down holding the transmission into the bottom cases. Tried it the other way around but the crank oil and some remaining coolant in the jugs kept conspiring against me. I'm stuck at rebuilding the clutch. I bathed all the friction discs in motorcycle grade transmission oil and put it back together as per the clymers manual with the added pancake bearing. I'm wondering if the clutch slipping is normal on the rebuild?

If I can't get the rod out by going through the Clutch push lever hole I'll definately use your guys advice on securing the crank shaft. And all new seals. Thanks. I'm going back to try pushing that rod out again. I did weld itself to the Clutch push lever so it may be mushroomed, but it does still move inside the drive shaft.

Yeah, I got a pancake bearing for the clutch. Almost everything in a banshee engine is tranferable to an RZ350. Good deal for me since original RZ parts are scarce. The gears are a different ratio and the RZ has the Power Valve jugs. Other than that i believe they are the same engine. I've often wondered what a banshee engine would act like in an RZ, but that is another topic.

Looks like the clutch pushrod failure is a common problem. I have an RZ350 and I cannot get the fried clutch pushrod out of it. I just had the topend rebuilt and ported 700 miles ago. (the engine got around 60hp when it was running). Since the RZ350 bottom end is exactly like the Banshee I figured this would be the best forum to ask the question. Can I get that pushrod out of there without rebuilding the topend? If so are there any tricks and tips that I should know about before I try. Thanks, Leroy Boise, ID