sl0wp0ke

I have a 99 Banshee, fmf exhaust, k&n filter and power lid, Vforce 3 reeds. I just got a new set of stock carbs and getting the jetting dialed in as my old carbs were shit. I have 120 compression on both cylinders and have passed leakdown test several times. I have the jetting pretty close I think at 300/27.5 (elevation is just above sea level) The bike works awesome but has a bit of lag around mid throttle while driving slow. I think I can take care of it by adjusting needle. The max temp the bike got to is 150ish f. My the tips of my electrodes have not changed color very much after around 5k test run. 1 plug changed slightly on one side of the tip. I did a cut down and both plugs have a nice gold ring around the base of the electrode. I side may reach 1 mm taller then the other. Is it best to go buy the base ring when tuning or by the tops of the plugs? How long will it take riding before the tips will darken up in peoples experience? Do you think it is safe to continue to a wot plug chop? Please help I have been working on this bike all summer and have not got to get a good ride in yet.

My right plug (brake lever side) has been coming back white lately. I have not driven far due to this problem. I did a leak down test and found a leak around the left intake. It appears to be coming around the bottom right bolt. Could this air leak cause the other plug to be white? I also noticed a small amount of coolant in my left pipe when I took it off. None was noted in the right pipe. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.

I just bought a set of stock carbs on ebay. The carb with the choke has a brass tube running from carb to bowell which the other carb does not have. I have read it has to do with the choke. Is this normal.

Doe anyone know the size of the exhaust port on a 99 banshee. I am making a leakdown tester and need the size for the freeze plug. I have been searching for a while and have found lots of diys but none mention the size.

I have a 99 banshee. Stock carbs, vforce 3 reeds, fmf pipes, k&n filter and powerlid. Ride at sea level. I just got theese carbs and trying to get them tuned in. I have cleaned carbs, air screws are 1.5 turns, 3rd clip on needle. Slides are incorrectly carbs are synched with tool at idle and rougly 1/4 throttle. Compression cold is110 on both. Both pipes apear to smoke evenly. I mix ams oil 32-1 with 91 octane. 1st try.. 300mains 27.5pilot. Bike started great. First part of throttle ok but boggs and could not hit powerband. Ran about 180-204f. 2nd try..280mains 27.5 pilots. Same started and begginging of throttle. A min powerband on flat, bogged bad on hills and worked alright downhill. A big improvment over first try. Ran about 140-160f Sence the bikeworks so shitty I only drove for a few minutes. Both plugs didnt seem to be chaging colors at same rate. 1st one the brakeside was leaner and second run clutch lever side was leaner. How long do you need to ride the plugs to get a good reading? Am I on the right track? I want to try 270 next? How close on main will I need to be to get a powerband? Any help would be great.

I just bought the stock tube from Farm and Sand Toys, after reading all the posts on here about them I would think a person would need to be retarded to run one haha.

I run the k&n power lid with outterwear. It flows nice but still does not do much for water protection.

I finally got all my parts to start tuning my new carb set up. I am going to start with the stock pilots and 290 mains. When trying the new jets is it best to try to fine tune the pilot jets first then move one to wot runs with plug chops to dial in the mains? Does anyone have any tricks one tuning the pilots? From reading online it seems the best way is just by feel? If I have a black ring during my plug chops how much room do you have to adj your main jets? If black should you just drop one size? or is it best o adj air screw and needle position first before changeing jet? Thanks for your help. I am just hoping to get this beast working right soon as it has been none stop issues for the last year Derek

My banshee came with some junky ysn carbs. I got a set of used stock carbs but did not come with the choke tube. Does anyone know if some fuel line would work or does it have to be a hard line?

I just picked up a set of used stock carbs for my banshee as I was running a set of ysn carbs wich I hear are just shit. I was looking for a little advise on jetting. I went buy one guide I found online but my numbers I came up with seem quite high. My mods include, k and n filter, no snorkle, k&n air box lid with resistant wear, fmf fattys with pc2s, v force 3 reeds. my riding is done close to sea level in 15 - 30 degrees cel.

Looking for a good carb set up. Must be willing rollers ship to Canada

I am looking to buy a new set of carbs. My banshee came with a shift carb set up. What kind of carbs come stock? What does everyone sugest to run? I have fmf exhaust bored to 392. Force reeds. Any advise be great Derek

Looking for some input on what size jets to run. Ride close to sea level 99 banshee bored to 392 Fmf pipes and pc2 mufflers V force 3s 30 mm carbs

Does anyone know if there is a jetting calculator online that I can use to get an idea what jets to use?

What size jets should I use in the carbs? I want a good starting point.

I guess I should add that I live very close to sea level.

I have a 98 banshee that is new to me. I am running a stock air box, with k&N filter and holes cut in the lid. It has fmf exhaust, vforce 3 valves, and is supose to be bored out to a 392. It has 30mm ysn carbs on it. When I drive the bike out of the power band it seems to be very boggy(makes little power). Once I get back into the power band and give it a few extra shots of gas it seems to come out of it and work fine. I do not have a lot of experience reading plugs but they seem to be wet . Do you think the bike could be jetted to rich? We pulled the jets out of the carbs but they sizes on them are worn off. What size jets should I buy to get started, and fine tune from there? Does anyone else think the problem could be something else?

I HAVE A 98 BANNSHEE, THE MOTOR WAS SUPOSE TO HAVE BEEN REBUILT JUST PRIOR TO ME OBTAINING THE BIKE. I WAS TOLD THERE WAS AN AFTERMARKET CLUTCH IN THE BIKE. lATE LAST YEAR I WAS HEADING OUT ON THE BIKE AND GOT ABOUT A MILE AND THE CLUTCH STUCK ON. I PULLED THE CLUTCH COVER OFF, WHEN I PULL THE CLUTCH LEVER IT THOUGHS THE CLUTCH OUT, THE BALL AND ROD ARE IN A1 SHAPE. THE DISCS AND PRESSURE PLATES SEEM TO BE IN GOOD SHAPE. THE ONLY DAMAGE I HAVE FOUND IS ON THE EARS OF THE CLUTCH BASKET, THEY ARE MINMIALLY WORN. I DO NOT THINK ENOUGH TO MAKE THE CLUTCH STICK BUT NOT REALLY SURE. WHEN I PULLED THE LEVER ALL THE DISCS AND PRESSURE PLATES MOVED WITH THE CLUTCH AS ONE AND DID NOT SLIDE APART. I WAS ABLE TO SEPEARTE THEM ALL BY HAND ON THE BENCH. I HAVE BEEN READING ONLINE AND IT SEEMS WHEN THIS HAPPENS TO MOST PEOPLES BIKES THEY HAVE BEEN SITTING FOR A WHILE. THIS WAS NOT THE CASE IN MY BIKE. WHAT ELSE COULD CAUSE THESE DISCS TO STICK TOGETHER, DO YOU THINK IF I CLEANED THEM ALL AND OILED THEM GOOD AND PUT NEW TRANNY FLUID IN IT SHOULD BE GOOD TO GO. ANY ADVISE BE HELPFULL. DEREK