Jump to content

Mack2243

Members
  • Posts

    8
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Mack2243

  • Birthday 12/15/1995

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Ontario Canada Eh?

Mack2243's Achievements

HQ Noob

HQ Noob (1/5)

0

Reputation

  1. That's exactly what I was thinkin. That'll hold it eh? another thing that could be contributing to this is the jets. All the stuff that's done to it already and it has an open lid with k&n filter and the mains are 320 and it was -15*C when I took it out.
  2. All clearances were checked with a dial indicator and a vernier. i didn't do anything to the crank after pressing it back together and tried it. That's my issue. Now my question is if I weld the crank, it'll be a one shot deal eh? If a bearing goes it's now a replacable unit?
  3. Hey guys, I have a quick question. I bought a shee a while back blown for 1300 bucks. It's bored .100 over, has the boost bottle, stock head, trinity stage 4 pipes. The guy had burnt up a bottom end rod bearing and was afraid to get into crank issues. Now I have it... I pressed the crank apart and had to take my die grinder and grind down the crank pin because there was brass and metal welded to it from the bearing. Got it all cleaned up, put new rods in it, took it out for 15 minutes and boom. Again. Bottom rod bearing. What's happening now is because I have taken material off the pin It heated up, moved towards the bearing and pinched it. I have new rods again. Will perma loctite hold the throw from moving or am I looking at welding it or a new crank. I do still have to press it apart and together. It's not like I can use my hands to take it off. It's an oem crank and you can't remove the bottom end pin from the inner throw. Thanks guys, Mack.
  4. Hey guys so it was running but now it's not. I rode it to work and it ran great. I was coming home and it would only run good as long as the revs weren't high. So I thought it was just the plugs fouling up so I just kept going. Finally it died right out. No spark or current running through the sysytem not even the lights. When I put a stator in it, I bought it off of eBay for 50 bucks. I don't have the money to put a good stator in it so I went with this one. For 50 bucks I couldn't imagine the quality being great. Could the stator be the problem? Please help. I've electrical problems since day one. I'm almost ready to say fuck it and sell it. Thanks.
  5. Hey got it running again. It was a combo of two things. The same ignition wire problem mixed with improper float level. I did both float levels and redid the wires and it fired right up.
  6. Everything in the crabs look to be fine but I just rechecked for spark and it seems that the right cyl has weak spark. And that is the side that's dumping all the raw fuel into the air box.
  7. Hi, last week I bought a 99 banshe for 1900 bucks off of kijiji. We got there and the atv ran great. Started first kick and everything. Go it home and it had got a little water in it from the rain on the way. My brothers thought it was the wiring so they started routing through the wiring. Then no go with that so I replaced the stator and the coil and still the same problem; sparks once every 5 kicks or so. Turns out because the ignition has bypassed, my brothers had hooked the wrong two wires together. I hooked it up properly and she fired right up. I had it out yesterday and it was running great. My brother wanted to try it so I killed it and hopped off. He got on, started it, turned around and it died. We thought we fouled a plug so we changed the plugs and still it woulf start right up but bogg down intantly. I openened up the air box and there was a puddle of gas. I cleaned the crabs and now it won't fire at all. I don't know what to do. The TORS has been pulled out. Any info helps. Thanks
×
×
  • Create New...