jthemmer

Compression and leaks I have tested for. And i googled the sea level thing and we are about 1100 ft above sea level on average.

Got my throttle on, kept the 270s with 25 pilots and stock needles on third clip. air screws 1 1/2 turns out. I am still having the same issue. It will start first kick with no choke on and will idle about 5 seconds, idle down a bit and then die. I will kick it again and it will fire but die even quicker. Then it takes like five kicks to get it to start and die again. I could repeat this process every day and have same exact results. Any body have any suggestions what to do next? Also keep in mind my carbs are not synced but they are close by eye and I kind of need to get the thing to idle in order to sync it properly.

I did not have a small enough screw driver last night. So today i put in the 270s after buying one and discovered it has 25 pilots and the needles are some odd ball size from moose racing. I have fmf gold series with aftermarket air filter but with box on and live in iowa. Do I need to change the pilots to like a 30 or 27.5? And I do have stock needles from a bag the guy gave me should I put those in instead?

sounds good thanks everyone!

One more question my throttle housing seems to conflict with the brake lever and resevoir, Do you guys just tilt the brake mounting forward for room?

So I got my twist throttle today and decided to check if my jets were clean as in a reply from a previous thread. As i removed the main jet I read the number 270 on one and when I went to the other carb it was a 200. This, combined with torn intake boots, bad reed gaskets and no link hose between the carbs would probably why this thing did not run right. So long story short I should buy a jet kit. Any recommendations?

Got it fixed thanks everybody.

I will give that a shot and if I can't get it I just might take you up on that. Thanks!

Tried doing my rear brakes today and the gold colored plate that runs parallel to the rotor needs to come back in order for me to fit the caliper on my rotor. Problem is the allen key that holds that is already stripped out. I found a few calipers on ebay for $70 plus used! Seems pretty high to me. However this is probably what I am going to have to do, or are there any other rear calipers that will bolt up to the mounting bracket?

Wound up buying the motion pro twist kit. I also think my carb sync and jets could be the issue so I will start with that after getting my kit.

I rode my friends banshee when he had it. It had a twist throttle and I really liked the response to it, but it kinda made me nervous as well, not being used to that. The motion pro kits are pretty cheap and I have heard good things about them. I will be riding all gravel roads and such, pretty flat Iowa ground, so does this seem like a safe bet to go with?

just for future reference in case anybody does the same as me and wonders where they went wrong, Buy copper mpt fittings and put them in where the boost bottle went, It works! Then you do not have to buy a second carb tool. I did some searching and found this one.

It had a lot of prior issues, It did have torn intakes and I replaced those. I just got my final parts for my carb sync tool so that I will do soon too. The carbs do have the idle screws but my throttle cables are not in good shape, Should I just buy new cables? If so what kind? I also do know it has new carb kits in it, however when I bought the banshee the throttle caps were switched (crossed each other, went to wrong carb) Is there someting in the carb kit that could have been put in wrong as well that I should look for? Also I did a leak down test prior and it checked out good.

I do not use the choke as it will not stay out if I try. It always starts without it too and it ran away on me actually it did not really stick to open position. I cleaned the carbs by spraying out orifices but did not pull out the jets, that will be on the agenda now.

also quick note. I see that my tors is removed, but my caps and throttle cables are pretty old looking and I assume stock. Do I need a tors removal kit?

It seems when it gets warm i have to give it gas in order for it to start. Other than that fires up no problem when cold. Compression is good. This thing used to sit outside all the time with the previous owner. Would this be a coil pack? Or the CDI? This is also the first time I have ever rode it as I bought it not running and have never owned a 2 stroke before or a four wheeler in general. It seems okay on power, could be more there I think, however my throttle stuck when i really opened it up and now im leary to try that again, What could have caused that?

Okay, Mine has two air gauges essentially with vacuum lines that come off of it. Is there anywhere on these carbs that I can hook the vacuum lines up to?

Will do, Ill have those tonight after work.

I got a great deal on a banshee and noticed one side of exhaust fits fine and the right side where the larger pipe fits into the silencer hardly fits at all. What might be my problem? The right silencer will not even line up right with the frame holes if I fit it snugly with the main pipe.

My question is can I use a carb balancing tool (the gauges) with the stock banshee carbs? Where do i hook the hoses up at to find my pressure on these carbs?

I did space on the spark plugs and good point a leak is a leak. Thanks everyone! Oh but since those vent tubes did not produce any air im good as far as crank seals right?

This should just be two vent tubes correct? One from the case and one from the cover. I tested both of these and no air leaks. I did find a leak at my exhaust plug though but very slight.

I am loosing air somewhere and have sprayed all over trying to find it during a leak down test. (I cannot hold 6 psi for 6 minutes) Do I have to take off clutch cover and stuff and drain coolant in order to leak down test for the crank seal in order to find it?