bryan b

Ok, i rechecked it but with the trottle open this time. Forgot about that and on the same gage got 72psi each cylinder. I also did a leak down test and it was really good lost nothing in 6min. The bike wont hardly idle and keeps acting like it has an air leak. We just rebuilt the carbs and couldnt get them to sync with the tool and it kept tryn to rev a little and wouldnt idle still so thats the reason for the compresion tests and stuff.

Checked my compresion today. 60psi on each cylinder. Like 10hrs on a build. 66mm bore, weisco pro lites, factory head. Runs great just a bitch to start when cold. Im gonna guess this is low compared to what i read. But seen a add on ebay for a set of used jugs that had 70psi and the add claimed that was still good running condition????

the funny part of this is. When i 1st built it it fired right up. And did for about a week but the shifting stuff was all wore out and it didn't shift worth a hoot, So i tore it apart and it sat for a week before i got the parts in. Put all the shifting stuff in and side case back on and when its cold it has been a total pain to start. if you pull the air filter and hold your hand over the hole it will fire on 2nd kick. then it will start on 1st kick after it warms up.

Didn't get to the leak down test. but the plugs look good. not lean at all far as plugs look. And i put a new set in it when i put it back together so these are not old plugs

doing that tonight. il let ya all know what it turns out to be.

forgot to mention it still has the dang tors on it and it doesn't like to idle. seems to always want to rev higher and never idles at the same rpm. does this sound like a vacuum leak of some sort?

yes carbs done at same time, both are getting good gas flow. if you do a plug chop on it after you get it started the 1st time its great. Its the initial cold start that is a bitch!and the tube is on and in good shape and all seems to be sealed tight

Ok, i rebuilt my 97 shee, when i originally started the bike for the 1st time it fired on the 2nd kick. did some tuning and so on. Then i ended up having to replace all the shifting parts. so it sat for a week after it had maybe 2 hrs on the new motor. It would start on 1st kick every time hot or cold. now it will NOT start cold unless you pull the air filter out of the box and completely choke the heck out of it. it will then start. And no it wont start if you use the choke on the left carb. And after that it fires up every time on the 1st kick. Carbs been rebuilt, motors good and fresh, 91 octane 32:1 mix with new plugs, getting good spark, what the hell am i missing here?????????

Ok here is a question in regards to the hard shifting. When i put the clutch back together, the book called for a O-Ring that is called a cushion ring. I couldn't find this o-ring int he box of parts the motor came in. Talked to local shop and they said they didn't have one but to go ahead and put it together that most places just throw them away and they are not needed. Is this correct or is my shift problem coming from a $5.00 o-ring that's not int here? i know it cant be the whole prob but possibly a little bit of the issue? Im gonna take it apart tonight and check out all my shifting components again and make sure all the clearance are what they are suppose to be but was wondering about this o_ring

is this the correct carb sync tool? http://www.ebay.com/itm/VW-WEBER-DELLORTO-DUAL-CARB-SYNCHROMETER-TOOL-EMPI-/400279359763?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item5d32825113&vxp=mtr

Thanks for the info here. I found the leak down tester thread and i can build that pretty cheap. I do kinda feel stupid tho. I figured out what was wrong with it. One of them things i got in a hurry and didn't pay attention. im kinda embarrassed to even say this but i had the TORs mix matched to the carbs so the plunger and needle were in backwards per say. Yes its possible and yes it will run like that just wont idle and runs real sluggish. I feel DUMB after i noticed what i did. But hey it runs awesome now!! BUT, whats the secret to getting these things to shift smooth? or shift at all? I am use to a 400ex, This one seems like it wont shift until you let off the throttle almost completely so the engine winds down. once you do that it will shift fine. if your trying to really get after it and shift quick it wont do it at all. it will just stay in that gear. Shifts a little better not using the clutch.

thanks for the info. Is there a thread on here on the leak down test or how to build a carb sync tool?

Also, is a 2-1 carb set up worth the $$ and if so whats the best kit to get?

Howdy all, im a newbee here. got my 1st 1997 shee last weekend. it was a basket case. Guy took it apart to put crank seals in it and i guess ran out of cash. got it cheap. bike is in good shape. I took the motor apart and replaced all the seals and stuff and inspected everything. Has less than 10 hrs on the 66 mm bore job and weisco pistons. machine shop said there was 5 thousands clearance on pistons/cylinders so i slapped it all back together and gotter fired up last night. Seems to run fine and started on the 4th kick. My problem is it wont idle and i have to give it a little throttle to get it to start. once you give it some gas she fires up on 2nd or 3rd kick. it seems a little sluggish also. I have cleaned the carbs. The motor had been sitting apart since November 2011 so its been in a box for bout 5 months or so. Still has tors but they are un plugged. I am not good with 2 strokes yet. Where would you start on this. i plan to get rid of the TORS at some point. Has new plugs gaped at 30, fresh 91 octane 32:1 mix with synthetic oil, new crank seals, new rings and pretty well be new bore job and timing is set at +4 . i do not know the jet size. he said he was riding it like it was and the crank seal was barely leaking. Said it would loose 1/2 lb of pressure in 6 min on a pressure test. He also did the plug chop to set his jetting and said it was close to spot on. So any ideas where to start here? Has fmf gold series fatty pipes also. carbs are factory