Dave G

Awesome! Thanks guys!!!!

Hey guys....quick question. I have stock headlights on my Shee....and they are pretty dim. Anyone know if I can replace them with H1 or H3 (55w) bulbs without burning up the stator or regulator? Has anyone done this already? Thanks again!

I want em. I get paid next week, so I'll get your info then. Thanks!

Hey....anyone have a set of Banshee headlights with grills in working order that they might want to part with? I also need the brackets that bolt them to the frame too. Thanks!!!

Thanks for all the help!!!! I downloaded the manual and am ordering the shaft from fast now....

My shee has been periodically hard to shift. Sometimes it will simply fall right into gear, and sometimes, with multiple lever pulls, it wont. Today, I was riding and lost all ability to shift. I was stuck in 2nd, and that was it. She shift lever felt all messed up, so I pulled the clutch case. The shifter claw had somehow twisted up and was horizontally instead of vertically. The eccentric was adjusted correctly before, and after resetting the claw it was still correct. I did however notice some play in the claw in the form of a wobble. And play in the shaft as a whole at the spring. I have modded the shift star to look identical to the one laid out on this site. I didn't mod the shaft or claw at all. Am I correct in thinking the shift shaft may be the culprit to the problem I've had since putting it together? If so, where can I get a NEW one for a reasonable price? If I bought a used one from eBay or somewhere, I might just end up with the same thing I have now! Also, I can't find anywhere the proper torque for the clutch basket/hub nut. I've heard if you tighten it too much it will cause lurching due to the hub not being able to spin freely apart from the basket. True??? As always, any help is appreciated!!!!!

Awesome! I'll pull it down tomorrow and check for that. Thanks!

When cold it does kinda lurch forward when putting it in gear, but as it warms up, that goes away. Never does it to the point of stalling the engine. The clutch basket is new, as well as the hub. The pressure plate is older, but in perfect shape. It does it regardless of hilly or level ground, and the clutch rod and case arrows are lined up. As for oil, I am running Castrol 10w-40, but am considering going to Type F tranny fluid.

Hey guys....got a question. My Shee is sometimes very difficult to upshift. If I am just cruising along, it usually shifts fine. (Sometimes it doesn't even like to shift then, however) But if I am running it, all upshift gears tend to be difficult. Sometimes I'll miss second and end up in neutral, sometimes miss 3rd and stay in 2nd.....etc. I have checked and rechecked the shift claw and it is spaced evenly over the shift star with it in any gear, and the clutch is adjusted properly. I have tried shifting both with and without the clutch....same result. Will modding the shift star correct this? I have read that it helps it shift easier, but haven't seen whether it can correct missing shifts. Also, I just have the stock shift lever. Would a quality aftermarket shift lever help? Thanks again for any help you can give!!!!

Not exactly. The jugs are 64.5 also, but I wanted a fresh bore. For that I needed 65. Instead, I ended up just honing the old bore, which is fine. I just preferred a fresh bore......

It is a fresh rebuild with a twist. When I ordered the pistons, I was off by one size. I got 64.5mm, and I should have gotten 65mm. When I went to have the cylinders bored, they were already big enough to accept the pistons. (With a little honing) I went ahead and threw it together so I could ride while I have another set of bigger pistons on the way. When they arrive, I will pull it back down and get it bored to match. On a different note, I went riding yesterday....and even though I can't give it all she has cause if break in, its NASTY! Power band in this thing is wicked! I think I may be running a little lean though, because after a while of riding, when you shut it off, you can hear bubbling (boiling I presume) in the radiator. But after pulling the plugs on a high RPM power off, they are ever so slightly black. Not wet.....just a little black. That should indicate slightly rich. So I dunno..... Any input? You guys know way more than I do!!!!

Hello ladies and gentleman.....I am here to present the "Complete Dumbass of the Year" award to Dave G., for his absolute neglect in remembering basic engine principles. lol Listen to this.....Two days worth of getting gray hair and then pulling it out because I couldn't get this thing to run. I decided to pull the carbs again, and recheck float levels. This time however, I kept the carbs upright and pulled the bowls so I could see the actual level of fuel in the bowls...... or rather in this case, lack of! The bowls were basically dry. I put the bowls back on, kept the carbs upright, and hooked up the fuel tank to fill them. Still empty.... Hmmmm, that could be a problem. I turned the petcock on the tank to on with it hooked to nothing. No fuel! Turn to reserve.....fuel poured. Cleaned the petcock, put it all back together.....fired up second kick and runs fine. Live and learn, I suppose. Thank you all for the help and maybe this discovery will help someone else someday!!!! Sincerely......dumbass of the year, Dave G.

Reeds are ok. I double checked them. Carbs have been pulled down multiple times, checked and rechecked, and checked again. All jets are new and clear. All nooks and crannies in carbs are clean. Compression is 60 psi single kick, and builds to 110-115 with multiple kicks.

I apologize.....I didn't realize there was a dedicated jetting section. I'm new here. Anyway, I'm at 800 ft altitude, and around 70-75 degrees. A buddy of mine has a Banshee as well, and this morning he let me try both 27.5 and 30 pilots. Same thing. Won't start unless pouring gas into either the carb intakes or spark plugs. Then it will only run until it burns out the gas I dumped in. That same buddy is saying it sounds like I have a leak in the crankcase, and that I should have used a high pressure sealant like Hondabond instead or High Temp RTV. ?????????

I am thinking I may have some other problem(s). I went to the link you suggested, and found one identical setup to mine, and another very close.....and they are both running fine. Same altitude, same temp, same jets. What else could cause this if it isn't carbs?And I have not done a leak down test.......

This set up has never run. It's probably 6 Banshees rolled into one. The site I got the info from was http://www.dfn.com/agservices/jetfaq.html All the above mentioned things I have verified. Floats are at 21mm, bowls are on right, slides are right.

Also, I am guessing that because the engine won't maintain running at any throttle, I will first have to get the pilot set to where it will idle and run slightly off idle, then the needle so I can get half throttle, and finally the main so I can get WOT. Am I correct in saying this?

Any size recommendation? 30's maybe?

I have tried that, and was thinking the pilot may be too small.....but would that cause the starting issues?

First off, let me apologize for this being such a long post.....but I figure if you guys don't know everything, then you can't help. With that said....here is what I have. The project Banshee I have been working on is built and does run.....sorta. Yesterday, I had it running, and it bogged just off idle, but then picked up. If it cut off, it would fire right back up. However, it didn't smoke at all, and got very hot, very fast.. I realized I was running lean, and shut it down. I pulled the engine again to verify no damage to the pistons or cylinders....and luckily it was ok. During the process of pulling it out, I found the lean condition. I had forgotten to put the choke tube in between the carbs. I also pulled the carbs apart and checked every orifice, float height, etc. I read an article last night about jetting, and I have removed the snorkel, added a K&N filter, and have a 2 into one exhaust. From everything I gathered there, I figured I needed to jet up to a 320 main. I think I was wrong. lol I put everything back together today, including the choke tube this time, and fired it up. Well, eventually. Choke appears to make no difference what so ever. The only way to get it to start is to hold something over the carb intakes to cause it to suck massive amounts of fuel in. Then it will start relatively easily, and you have to remove the blockage from the carb intakes so it can then get air. It will not idle at all, and after about 3 seconds of throttle manipulation to keep it running, it dies out. It smoked plenty....probably too much. I then went to 280 mains, but have the same exact thing going on as the 320's. Choke still seems to make no difference, and it won't start unless you have the airbox side of the carbs blocked off in some way. Even if the engine is warm. The carbs are synced, I have adjusted the air screw from seated to 4 turns in various graduations. I've both enabled and disabled the TORS. I've checked and rechecked everything more times than I can count. I'm lost..... The specs right now are: 280 mains 25 pilots 3rd notch on needles I REALLY don't want to take is to the local Yamaha dealer and have them fix it, because they are ridiculously expensive, and I would rather be able to fix it myself anyway so I can have a better understanding of things. I'm thinking it has to be jetting, because I have checked everything else, and everything else is good! Any help is GREATLY appreciated! Dave

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

Hey guys! I have a project Banshee that I got running for the first time yesterday. The results weren't great, but it is mostly my fault. I forgot the choke tube in between the carbs, which caused a lean condition and heated things up quick like! Luckily I didn't run it very long cause I knew something wasn't right. Anyway, one of my friends is an aluminum fabricator, and ATV enthusiast, and suggested me going with a single carb. He can make a Y intake that will split the single carb to both cylinders. This will require a bigger carb, I'm sure, but is it even something I should consider? It seems great theoretically.......easier tuning, knowing both cylinder are doing the same thing, less clutter. Opinions???

I have a few more things needed: Airbox (complete with boots) Radiator overflow bottle Key switch Upper a-arm collars Chain Oil drain plug Block to cylinder studs Cylinder to pipe exhaust springs Rear wheel stud I know a few of these things are trivial and I may end up getting them from Yamaha or eBay, but I figured I would check here first! Thanks again!

Anyone have a stock inner clutch hub laying around that they might want to part with???