Mav.Garon

update: tested today and had same problem as before. Idled well and ran on right cylinder with choke out. Nothing on right without choke, any rpm. Pulled carbs and swapped float needles and floats. set height at 21 mm +-.5mm immediately ran better and idled. could pull 6th gear easily and ran on both cylinders. New problem-leaking out of overflow on that carb. Needle holds when tested for leaks, must be a incorrect height? old float was wayyy higher but didnt leak... May start another post if problem persists

My banshee is having similar problems lately. For me it is also the Right cylinder that is refusing to run. After warming it up and going for a test ride I returned to my shop and tested the pipes. Left side running good-330' or so on the left, 50' on the right. I doubt spark is the problem, I swapped plugs, caps, coils etc with no change. Plus I can see spark when I test it. Occasionally it has power when I am higher in the rpm range, but it is intermittent. It also runs better at idle when the choke is half out but above 1/4 throttle this causes power loss. I believe my problem is somewhere in the pilot circuit, and I think my next move will also be to reclean the carb. This is really when the TORS removal kit pays off, its wayyyy easier to pull the carbs now. I am wondering however-If the pilot was clogged, why didnt it run on both cylinders at WOT (maybe it did occasionally?) Shouldn't both pipes have gotten hot if it was running on the main jet? When I pull the Right plug it is definitely wet. It does not look like crankcase oil (I run ATF so it should be obvious if the crankseal is shot)