Chip M
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Posts posted by Chip M
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I just fixed one about two weeks ago. I did just as sheerider said, one size bigger bolt. Takes about 10 minutes to drill out the hole with tap drill and run the tap in. If you do not want to go as big as the next size metric bolt is going to be, you can go with the next size standard SAE thread, you might find you do not have to open up the hole in your peg to get the new bolt to fit. I think my hole was repaired to a 7/16-14 thread.
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i saw a clip on youtube of a shee backfiring... it sounded and acted just like mine .. and dude replaced the rings on his and cleared it up ... with that being said. is there any way to check the rings without takning the jugs off
Compression test will tell you if you need to freshen up the top end. Make sure the gauge you use has the same length threads on it as the threads on your plugs. You should be able to search in the mod and repair forum for the procedure. Good luck
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I run K&N also but in a stock air box. I clean it on a regular basis, but that would be after 3 or 4 ride trips. Never have a dirt problem and I also run mostly trails. Do you use the recharge kit on your filters? They say it keeps out the fine particles. Also I know the outerware socks that they sell will help keep the dirt from getting on filter. Water on an open filter system would always be trouble but you do get better air flow than you would if you switched to a airbox. I would try to keep what you have and just add the outerware and do the precharge. Go around the water if you can. LOL. Good luck
Advanced Auto Parts sells the K&N recharger kit. It comes with the filter cleaner and oil. Most people here use it on the motocross tracks
http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/partdetail.asp?partid=74
http://www.motosport.com/dirtbike/OUTERWEAR-PREFILTER-FOR-KN-AIR-FILTER
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the gas is new ummm it was running great and then alll of a sudden it started acting up it has the junk stock air filter i have been wanting to put 2 single air filters on it but that cost a lil bit of money that i dont have at the moment and when i tore the carbs apart to clean them the main jet on the left side was loose i tightend it up and thats the side that acts up if i keep the rpm up it runs rough but ok i guess just as soon as i try to idle down bit it starts popping and all that one buddy of mine says maybe the stator ?????
131 words in one sentence. That has GOT to be some kind of record!!
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Bumper received and looks sweet. Good deal and great seller to work with. BUMP BUMP!!!
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Money sent for DG bumper. Thanks
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I know. For the life of me I can't understand why he would want to post such intimate pictures of his mother's birth canal.
LMFAO!!
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Title is based on the Frame for all titles. What more than likely happened is someone when selling te atv wrote a bill of sale on the engine number and then they took that to the DMV and got a title.
Adam
Maybe I could try that. The guy I bought it from is a bud of mine so he will write me up a bill of sale with the frame number on it. Do you think DMV will issue a title with just that? Maybe I will not mention the problem with the title I have.
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DMV is supposed to use the frame number. Early year Banshees have the same number on the engine as they do on the frame. My 89 that I bought from the dealer is this way. Nut in the later years the engine number is different from the frame because Yamaha changed their numbering/ manufacturing procedures. Does the frame number match the engine number?
No, frame number is different than motor number. The shee is a 1996. DMV gave me my sticker I need to ride in the state grounds here, so no problem there, I was just wondering how I could fix this issue. I do not think they would want to re-issue a title with a different number than what has been on the title for the last 2 owners
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For fucks sake, wrong forum!
LMFAO!!..great reading!!!! Its right up there with the clutch plates post. WELD BALL...too fuckin much
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So....I did a compression test this weekend after our season is over. I decided to do this because it just didnt seem like it was pulling the hills that good. What I found was the that the passenger side of piston was at 75psi and the driver side as at 50psi. I know I definately need to freshen up the top end. MY next question is, has anyone used the namura piston kit off ebay. I used the piston kit for my sons Blaster and Im happy with it. Just checking if anyone has done one on a Banshee.....any input would be great....Thanks.
Not surprised that is was not pulling good. At 50 psi I am surprised it even fired. You might want to check that your compression gauge is giving you a good reading. I suppose if you are happy with the namura pistons you got for the blaster, you can go with them for your shee, but as for me, I would only use a wiseco product. For the little extra money and the quality you get for it, it just makes sense to me to use top of the line. Check out some pics of the destruction a bad piston can do to your cylinders/heads/cases in this forum. Call Brandon at Wildcard Racing or Jeff at FAST. Both are sponsors for BHQ and both will give you a good deal. Good luck
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I bought a banshee with a title. After I had the title transferred into my name I noticed the ID number on the paperwork (title) matched the number stamped on the engine case. I also have a number stamped into the frame. I would think the frame is the number they would want to track. Is the number stamped on case suppose to match the number stamped on frame? If no, any idea why the engine number would be on the title instead of the frame number?. All help is welcome. Thanks
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Good prices, good pics , GOOD JOB!!...............bump
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if i will need to go up a piston size with boring a bit the cylinder. will i need anything else except pistons?
here in cyprus its a bit hard to find parts so ebay is ok.ive been long years been on ebay ordering all sorts with no prob. if something goes wrong from sellers side most of the times a replacement or refund is issued
Pistons,rings, wrist pins, wrist pin bearings and wrist pin circle clips. It is pretty normal to replace all with a new set of pistons. Some people will reuse the wrist pins and bearings but for the little bit extra, it is not worth the chance you take if one fails with your new top end. Like was stated to you in earlier post, you really should have your cylinders checked for size and roundness. New piston and rings does not do much good if you have bad/wore out bores in your cylinders. Good luck
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Is the cc size of the domes the same cc units used to measure liquid?? If so i can just use a measuring flask to test the dome area. And how much timing can pump gas handle??
Yes, the measurement is the same. A plastic syringe used to measure liquid medicine works better and more accurate. If you have a flat piece of metal with a hole in the middle you can keep the metal sealed to the head while you fill with liquid from the hole in the middle. Plug must be in.
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the bike was send form Australia and i got in in edmonton alberta a few weeks ago
Nice, I wish we could still get them here in the states. Good luck with your build.
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I'm i the only one that has noticed the year of this guys banshee?
I saw that. Must be a Mexico, Europe or maybe Australia model. I found the pics up to 2010 model. This one was listed as 2008.
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I'm gonna get a new cable, hub, pressure plate, basket, fibers, steels, whatever I can get.
That is exactly what I did and put it together over the weekend. Billet basket, inner hub, pressure plate w/ springs and your steels and pads. Basket comes with new back plate and screws, all you have to do is grind the rivets off your old basket (from the back,gear side) and punch them out to get your primary driven gear off. Put it back together with the included screws and you are ready to reassemble the clutch. I have not had my quad very long and did not ever feel any slip, I just did not have the pull I thought it should have when shifting. After I put the new FAST clutch in I thought I had a new quad, I grabbed 2nd gear and the bitch stood straight up!!! You will not be disappointed for the small money invested. Good luck and don't forget to get the pancake bearing
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Thanks for the info guys, the billet basket came in today and it has new cushions and a back plate with screws. It went together like a dream. I can't believe Yamaha stills sells their baskets with the flat side drivers for the cushions. The radius side drivers that fit between the cushions on the billet basket makes a better fit and you have much more of a bearing surface that is taking all the pounding, seems like it should last much longer. I will need all the strength I can get, real soon I hope to get Brandon to work some of his port magic on my cylinders!!
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I took my clutch apart today because it was turning back and forth without the driven gear turning. I expected to see the cushions beat up when I separated the basket from the driven gear but I found something I did not expect. Maybe some kind of quick fix engineering. I posted a pic . No wonder I had the slop in the basket.They could have at least wrapped a little electrical tape around it. lol. I have a new pancake bearing to install with the new basket and plates and I see it in no way attaches to the new pressure plate. I was curious as to whether or not you guys use the fiber spacer/gasket that was in between the basket and driven gear when I separated them. Also what about the thrust washer that was in between the back plate and the driven gear? I have everything except the billet basket kit, it should be in tomorrow. The kit said it included a new back plate, cushions, basket and screws. Nothing about a thrust washer or fiber spacer. Thanks
It had 4 large and 4 small cushions. Lots of room to move
Below is a pic of the thrust washer
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If you know you had a coolant leak in the cylinder, start by checking your deck. If its true, then replace your o-rings and give it another go.
I am not totally sure I have a coolant leak. I do not lose any coolant from radiator, I am going by the look of these pistons. I have not done a coolant pressure test before and have been looking for a link to the procedure and have not found it. I will sure check the deck and head for flatness and try the new o-rings. Thanks and real nice bottom end walk thru, I got some good use out of it on my first rebuild.
PISTON PICS
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I had a washed piston the last time I took the head off. I am doing the radiator pressure test and would like to know if I just pressurize the system to 15 pounds and see if it holds it or do I need to start it up and see if the pressure rises from o-ring leak between the cylinder bore and coolant system. I found no gouges in the mating surfaces and the o-rings were new so I think I should try a new set of o-rings and lap the mating surfaces good and flat. Has anyone ever fixed a washed piston problem or can tell me if I am even going at this the right way?
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so 20cc domes would be good for pump gas. What the limit per say on compression for 91 octane?
My mods are very similar to yours except my elevation is 0- 50 feet A.S.L. I have the Pro Design Cool Head with 19's. It has my compression up to about 165. Too high. Brandon told me to go with the 22's and it would put me about where I should be. That is only a place to start, but a safe place. All bikes are going to be a little different and as you have heard the engine set up,mods, tuning, fuel and elevation all will change the end result. I can tell you for sure that although mine will run on 93 octane, I found that the 100 octane pump race fuel I get from Sunoco runs much better and no ping. I was told that running the 93 octane with 165 compression is border line at best and would probably cause a detonation problem. 155 is said to be a high safe zone. Good luck and for sure call Brandon.
Sticky clutch cable
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted · Edited by Chip M
My actuator bearing was bad on my last rebuild. The new actuator arm would move but felt bumpy. I was checking it with the ball and rod out. The bearing had left marks in my old actuator arm so I knew it was bearing time. Some people have told me they could just dig theirs out from the top of the case but I destroyed the bearing trying. I had to use a die grinder and a small wheel to split the outside race of the bearing to get it free from the case bore. I was very careful not to nick into the aluminum bore the bearing slides into and it ended up working out fine for me. If your bearing is bad I am hoping yours will just slide out for ya. Good luck.