Chip M
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Posts posted by Chip M
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Clean ride. TTT
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Bump for a great seller. Parts look as described, stayed in touch during deal and shipped quick. Thanks much Dan!!
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Do a search in the parts for sale section. There are a few of them in there. Good luck
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I bet he can whoop the shit outta that jeep!!
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The other reason I had the clutch out was to change the clutch basket since it was grooved....I used the exact one in the link from FAST....The clutch plates looked good so thats the only reason I didnt change it then....But I saw no marking on them so I didnt know if they were stock or what....
I was looking at clutch kits with the YZF 1000 clutch plates in it.....Is the FAST kit better than the other kits with these plates? Are those plates all hype or what? Just trying to learn
When I pulled mine apart I could see my basket trouble. Looked like the steels and friction plates had been changed a few times with no basket replacement. I put in new steels and friction plates along with the springs and pancake bearing and thought I had a new quad. I have no regrets at all.
I do not know if the FAST kit is better or not but I figure that if Jeff could offer a better product for a cheaper price it would be to his benefit to do so. I like to deal with the sponsors and have not found that the little bit I can save elsewhere is worth the trouble that I see people run into with bad parts and return issues. Nine times out of ten you get what you pay for. I hope everything works out for you, much more fun to ride rather than sitting in front of this screen!!
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Basially half the engagement dogs are removed. And the engagement webbings. You have one gear with 6 dogs that engages with another gear that has 3 . So 3 out of 6 dogs do nothing anyway. By removing the extra 3 u give the engaging dogs more room to fall into place since the gears are spinning past each other at different sppeds.. Confused yet?
Thanks for the explanation. Very clear, short and sweet. I pretty much only run in the woods, it sounds like something that would work out great for me.
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What is a cut transmission? I assume it makes it shift easier, but does anyone have the short version of what is done to it?
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^^^ x2.....I would also get the billet basket to go with it. I just bought the same set up and it grabs great. You might want to call Jeff and ask him which springs he recommends with your set up. He has 2 different spring tensions that can go with it. I would guess he is going to tell you the lighter ones as he did me. Good luck!!
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I'll look into those other heads, I dont even have or want a stock head so thats out of the question. It's a 4 mil but it's not a 4 mil to its full potential since it was built using a spacer under the jugs (bought it like that) but dont have the time to keep upgrading it I just want to drive it. What's the best domes to use for pump gas? like 21 and I believe 22cc is stock? I'll be using 93 pump gas and amsoil oil....driven in NJ not sure of elevation
Keep the comments coming!
I run 19 domes at sea level and my compression is at about 165 each side with .045 squish clearance. The guy I got it from was running 93 pump gas but I saw some piston damage and choose to go with 100 octane Sunoco pump. Mine is not a gas pig so the 8 bucks a gallon is ok with me. You might find that you can do a 50/50 mix if your compression is too high for the 93. You will find different opinions on where the cut off is for the 93 but most will tell you between 155 to 165 psi. How far you can stretch those numbers before detonation problems has alot to do with your timing and also your air to fuel mixture. I would guess you will be using either 19 or 20 cc domes Best idea is to get with your builder and he will give you the best advise for your (his) build.
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I run the pro design and have not run into any problems but I have heard of the troubles with them before. I have read the guys in here seen to really like the Chariot or NOSS heads and you can use the stock studs with them and also get domes to suit your needs. Another option that seems to get good reviews is to give the guys at Mull Engineering a call and tell them what you have and what you are wanting to do and they can custom cut a stock head or cut your stock head to give great performance. No o-ring problems to worry about but also no option to switch dome sizes. Good luck
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Is there anything I can do to make this damn crank work now? I was think about grinding down the key a lil but I don't exactly know how much to grind off. Or could I file downte key way? Any help would be much appreciated. Frigging wiseco says I have to RMA through the company I bought it from and it sucks cause I bought it on eBay from apex racing and they aren't responding.
I am not sure how much interference you are talking about but since you say you could beat in but it will not go flush to bottom of keyway on the crank I am going to assume we are not talking about much. They make small diamond files that will cut hardened steel but you would probably not end up with straight sides on the keyway. You would have to keep all the pressure towards the bottom of keyway while filing the sides so not to file the top of the keyway too sloppy. It is doable but not as precision as it should be done. I have also made step keys to fix similar problems. It would work best with a surface grinder or at least a mill though. You just grind the half of the key that fits in keyway taking the same off each side so your centers stay equal. Be sure to not be taking any material off the half that fits in the primary gear. Once again, doing this kind of shit with hand tools is a down and dirty fix at best. If you have a local machine shop it would be a breeze for someone to skim the crank slot until you had a good fit and the sides of the keyway would be nice and straight at the same time. Sounds like a nice build, I would either look in the local machine shop option or try to send it back. EBAY sucks in my opinion, I see some good deals but always seems like the troubles you can run into are not worth the little bit ya save. Good luck and let us know how it turns out for you.
Chip
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Nice Chip! When you want to ride again?
Hey Russ!! I have not seen you in here for a while. Hope everything is good for you. We will for sure hook up before it gets too hot to move. Take care and say hey to your boy for me......................Chip
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I'm putting my top end back together in the next few weeks , and I was assuming I would just use a 50/50 mix of antifreeze/ water , but what does everyone else run? I ride the dunes and obviously it's a work-out on the motor . Does anyone ride dunes here and just runs water only? Or use a water wetter product in the water?
Engine Ice straight, no mix. Rules!!
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I run 19's at about sea level and my compression is 165. I am not sure how much difference our elevations would make on your compression but I run Sunoco 100 octane. The guy I got the quad from ran 93 and did not have any problem but I knew it was right on the edge and I did a fresh rebuild and wanted to do my best to avoid deto. Good luck.
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Jeff did a sweet job on my seat cover with EXCELLENT turn around time. I had never put a cover on anything before but with all his tips it went much smoother than I expected. I will definitely be using Jeff in the future and recommend him to anyone that needs to have a cover made. Even if you just want to change the look of your ride, he makes it very affordable to do and is a pleasure to deal with. THANKS JEFF!!
Before and after pics
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use 35 watt, 55 watt is too much for a stock stator to handle.
also the banshee is H6M bulbs
something like this would work
Thanks for the link!!. Helps me out too
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Open up a photobucket account for some pics. That facebook shit is crazy. Photobucket is free, easy to use and works every time!!.
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I got mine from F.A.S.T. I just checked and it is a little more money than the motion product but it is a quality product for sure and I think the site sponsors are much worthy of our support. Also, it is always a good idea to give your business to someone who is always willing to take time out of their day to give you info and help on your quad.
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275 for the kit and a bore job is cheap. I cannot see how they could be wiseco product. Do yourself a favor and listen to BigRed. Use a site sponser. They know banshee's well and do good work for good prices. Watch out for ebay there are many places that sell misfit brand name products. You do not want the pistons that the manufacturer would not sell themselves because they did not pass inspection. Ebay sucks, just my opinion of course!!. Good luck
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Any advice on replacing the clutch actuator bearing if I have to? Also does it require splitting the cases?
No you dont have to split cases. My first post tells pretty much what I had to do but some people have told me that their bearing slid right out. Pull out the actuator arm and there should be a washer on top of the bearing. With some luck you would be able to use a small pick or awl and get hold of the edge of the bearing race and get it loose. Try a little on one side of the race and go to opposite side of race to try to keep the pressure even. Maybe 2 picks at the same time. I have also seen bearing pullers that will expand on the end like a expandable freeze plug. They have a slide hammer attached and you pull it out like using a dent puller.
http://www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html
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I don't have my clymer in front of me. Do I need to pop off the clutch cover and remove the center nut on the clutch? I tried taking it out earlier and it didn't want to and I had no intention of using any real force to get it out.
yes. Break the nut loose nut and back the screw out until the pressure is off the actuator arm. If you take the screw out all the way, careful not to loose the ball that is in there. Take the cable and spring off the arm and see if the arm moves freely in the case.
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lol, no comment.
good call , professional. RESPECT
banshee's being a dick head...
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Check this link out. It has helped me before. Good luck
Banshee Electrical FAQ - Banshee HQ Forums