salmon_slayer06

do those plug boots screw into wire, or do you crimp a connector onto the wire?

I recommend getting the cylinders ported. FAST did mine... dune/play port. I now know why people talk so much about porting. If it runs good, just leave it be. Get the jetting dialed in for the elevation, and maybe put a cool head on with matching 4 mil domes. I don't know if you had that on there yet..... BTW.. I ride St. Helen often. I just built a 4 mil.... took about a year from blow up to on the trail again. What a difference. Did all the trans mods also.

I routed mine so it will drip on the radiator, not my nicely painted exhaust pipes.

I got mine from a powersportds dealer. They screw right on to the wire. I broke the plastic clip on coil so I ended up using a sealant to keep water out of coil. Was going to get a nology.... but bike runs great and I think OEM might be better.

could have a wire rubbing somewhere, its grounding out .

the last one post sounds good. I'm on third cycle, drove around in 1st. Will do full run soon.

I went through the wire harness on mine when I rebuilt the motor. The previous owner had wires cut and twisted together. I think it was for bypassing the tors switch. Anyways I stripped the wires again and soldered them. I made sure the grounds were good. I would look for a used wire harness on ebay if its too chopped up.

just did first cycle. Started fine, letting it cool down... seemed the cylinders got pretty hot.

I did a 50:1 mix using the same bel Ray I normaly use. I hope the 170's are not too rich... its a pain getting the carbs off with the stock boots and air box... a real pain.

Need some input on break in prcedures and fuel mixture to use.. Finished the 4mil with dune/play port cylinders. Was going to start it tonight but wanted to check manual on what oil ratio to use. I run only Bel Ray synthetic. I went bigger on the main jets and raised the needle. I looked in the manual and they say 16:1 for a couple heat cycles. After that run normal. Went on yahoo search and found that some run heat cycles and use same oil ratio. A little run down of whats done.... T5's Keihin 35mm's had 158 mains switched to 170's Raised needle two notches 4mm Hot Rods crank Cast pistons dune play port NOSS head w/ cut domes for 4mm 93 octane 1200 foot elevation Squish I believe was somewhere .048-.045.. didn't check compression though Stock timing plate modded to about 5 degrees... Can't wait to kick her over Boyesen reeds Lots of trans work done.... cut dogs, shift drum bearings, shift pro, modded star, bearings on shift shaft,

I did this mod about 3 weeks ago. I used a dremel and some carbide bits. I spent about 2-3 hours modding it. Turned out great.

I just did this mod, figure I'd bring the thread up so if anyone is interested in doing it. I went to Lowes and bought 2 different carbide grinders made for the dremel. I didn't have a dremel so I bought the cheapest one that had variable speed. I paid like 50 for the Lowes brand dremel. This steel is very hard so expect the grinders to wear out. I had enough to do the job. At least now I have a dremel tool for future mods. Mine turned out just like the one pictured.... now if only the rest of my parts whould come in I could possibly build the motor this weekend.

http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=142330 The trans I'm building has the shift shaft bearing on both ends... shift drum bearing on both ends, gears have been cut every other dog removed, shift pro detent, modified shift star, and this one I'm doing now is the last of the mods that I know of. Stock clutch setup. No bells and whistles, just a typical banshee with a 4mil crank, ported cylinders.

How do you go about grinding out the window that the shift adjustment bolt is located in? Dremel? Another quick mod before I start buttoning up the 4mil.

just ordered a primary drive chain and steel sprocket set. I would never run an aluminum sprocket unless it was a dune banshee only. Running stock sprocket sizes. I could have used a bigger sprocket in rear for more low end.. didn't want to mess with it until the new motor is in.

thanks for the info. Looked into all the different kinds. Honda Bond sounds like it will be easier to use and have longer set time. The permatex stuff sounds like a possibility cause its easy to get. Anyone else use the permatex ultra gray? How is it?

Turn the impact down to lowest setting. Let the impact action do the work when taking it off. If you want accurate torque on nut, use the clutch holding tool. BUT I would think a few hits of the trigger using impact wrench is the best way... I noticed the clutch tool likes to gouge or mar the soft aluminum.

BTW... doing a 4mm build. Went through FAST and had my cylinders ported. I went with the dune/play port. I did get my cylinders back, and the workmanship can't be any better. They are a mirror image of eachother. I don't know how they do it, glad I chose them. Coolhead, domes on the way from them as well.

Anyone have experience using this stuff? I think it should be the easiest stuff to get a hold of since there is an auto-zone or O'reillys on every corner by me. I plan on using this on my case halves. If not what Yamabond or what three bond is the one I need or most used? Thank you...

clutch. Mine did the same.

Some say not to grind the one before and after the neutral.

I'm building a 4mm also. So far I did the shift shaft bearing install, shift drum bearing, and shift start mod. I still need to get the shift detent arm, modify the opening in the shift shaft and get my gears back from getting the dogs removed. Today I boxed up my cylinders and they are going to FAST to get ported. I'm just going with the woods port.... I'm a three year banshee newb. After my banshee rebuild, I can say I have at least some experience and have learned a thing or two. Watching the Silver Lake Sand Dune videos on you tube only makes the anxiety worse and I wish I had shipped my cylinders out a month ago. Well, time to order more parts....

I'm building a 4mill trail ported motor, lots of other mods looking to be around mid 60 to 70ish hp. I have all stock suspension. I currently have well worn 10 paddle taller haulers. Let me tell you, man do those tires throw a roost! Anyways.... I ride St. Helens trail system. St. Helen snowpackers groom the trails for the sleds in the winter and regroom them after the snow melts. Long wide open trails with some areas full throttle. The main ORV trail is what you want to ride. It goes as far as Roscommon and ends down by the power lines near Denton Creek. I run paddles every time I go. Loose sand with a couple spots that are hard pack but I tread lightly in those spots to save my paddles. I checked out so cal suspension website. If I want to save money, would rebuilding the stock shocks and possibly replacing the rear spring be the way to go.

Look up trans shift mods. 1- cut gears.... 2- shift star mod... free 3- shift shaft bearings... 12x16x12 roller bearing 4- shift drum bearing mod 28mm OD ball bearing 5- Pro shift mod While you are waiting for the crank, port job, etc.... these shift mods can be done in the meantime. VXB bearing is a good bearing place to go through.

Those of you who had turned there own shift drums, what size bearing did you end up using and how did you go about turning the drum when theres a hole in the end for some reason. Does it interefere with the bearing or does it need to be filled in with a weld than turned?