Azryll
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Posts posted by Azryll
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Most every one is 48-50. So +4 out back is about 48 with the right rear wheel offset.
Am I missing something? If the play axle is 34" and you use +4 off set rims your at 42"
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If you do not have lots of money to spend most likely just weld it and stay stock but depends on what your doing. Are your jugs ported? If yes, stay with the stock crank because you will either have to find new cylinders or port them again. Is your crank still good? If you just are welding the crank is about $75. If its bad and you have money to port and buy a crank go 4mil. If you dont' have money to port, buy pistons, and domes buy a standard stroke crank. Its not as simple as just throwing a 4mil crank in there.
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Impact driver's saved my butt so many times. Even with those holes slighty striped it should come out with one.
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I have terrible luck but a chance at free stuff is sweet. Thanks BVC!!!!
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Oval is stronger than the round, depending on length you will need to strengthen it to stop flexing and throwing chains. Looks awesome though great job keep up the good work.
Depends, oval will be stronger one way but weaker in the other than round. Round tube strength and stiffness is the same throughout so it depends if the arm is gonna have any side load.
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Here's the post of BigRed's spare tank http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=145881&page=2
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They are from Cascade Innovations
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If you want works that are shiny and don't want to have to polish them all the time you can get these, unless you like to polish all the time
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What's nice about a battery is that you don't get any dimming at idle or when you let off the throttle. You don't need a huge one either, just a small little RC car battery works fine unless you want the lights on when you have the engine off.
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Sick seat Matt. Gimme your frame plz
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If you had a 10 mill making 77 HP you would know not to run those stupid undersized Paul Turners on the damn thing.
True that
99% of people who say a dyno can be manipulated are just repeating stuff they have heard. For the purposes of testing all they are doing is swapping reeds. The results of THAT experiment are almost identical to the results YOU will have. Because most riders don't have their motor dialed in perfect in the first place.....so a before and after test with zero tuning is exactly the way you would run your machine if you bought new reeds. (If you did a little research, you might go up one pilot jet size and gain better rideability and midrange power.)
It's not that hard to change to higher octane, timing, domes, a/f ratio etc. Again not saying they did this at all, and if the gain is that big thats awesome. I was just saying that I was surprised.
Using a dyno to prove stuff instead of taking the word of 100 fools and their Butt Dyno opinions FTW X2!I totally agree but I would trust riders results then someone who would like to increase sales. And yes I have seen the other dyno results, my whole point was 8 hp switching from 3's to 4's is alot.
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I'm not saying that they are not better (I've seen other charts posted as well) but thats a huge gain. Dyno's may not lie but can be manipulated by changing lots of things. Again not saying they did, those results are just surprising. And if I had a 10mil only making 77 hp I would be a sad panda
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8 hp difference just swapping reeds seems high
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I used a spray paint call Stove Bright. It's been on my bike for 3 years now, had gas and brake fluid spilled on it and held up fine. All I did after I painted it was to do a couple heat cycles before I rode it to bake it on there good. The only touch ups I have had to do was where I scratched them pulling them back off the bike but easy fix. They also have lots of colors, I used the metallic black
http://stovepaintbyjim.com/stovechart.jpg
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so nobody has ever had to replace this?
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Azryl, thats some decent power but not what I would call a good curve for trail riding.
Is your 4 mill ported? I like where those come on and how they build, they only seem to peak around 9k, but I can agree that the PTR Mids come on strong and stay there until 9k then drop like a rock.
My motor has a dune port stock cylinder that I had a builder do for my favorite style of riding here on the Oregon dunes being tree shots some of which are winding trails, sorry I didn't clarify. I just wanted to show him the rpm ranges on the pipe. I have ridden it on some slower trails and it did fine but I agree with you DDQ the curve may not be ideal for everyones riding style but works perfect for what I do and is easy to ride all day long. PT's are good pipes I have ridden a few bikes with them, I don't think you could go wrong with either if the bike is ported/built the way you intend to ride it.
Your not gonna find a "mid" pipe that goes much over 9k rpm. If you want more over rev you can get CPI's but your power is gonna come on later, guess it depends what your idea of trails are in your area.
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To give ya an idea where the where the power will come on and fall of with Pro Circuits heres my 4mil with +3 timing on pump gas. I have another pic where the hump at 8k rpm isn't as drastic but to lazy to look for it
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I checked everywhere I thought might have them even a yamaha dealer looking for front caliper rubber bushings and am having no luck. I need the bottom rubber piece that connects the caliper to the bracket that attaches to the steering knuckle, does anyone know where I can buy this part? I circled where it goes in the pic. Thx for the help
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I ran leaded 110 that a local 76 would sell by the gallon out of drums. Ran it for years, like anything if your jetted correctly your good to go.
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New pistons are like 200 bucks. If thats gonna break your budget stay with the stock crank and get your motor ported. Pipes and porting cost some coin but the best bang for your buck, of course if you can afford it get the 4mil cause once you port your cylinders for the stock crank most of the time you can't upgrade later without buying new juggs.
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anyone know how the cops measure rpm as your getting decibel tested?
Usually they just do 1/3 to 1/2 throttle and use the meter. If they are not trained how to properly use the meter you can get a higher or lower reading. It's supposed to be done at a certain distance and angle.
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In Oregon the limit is 97db.
Actually the limit on the dunes is 93 db and 97 at sandlake. Here is a link of pipes that passed the old 95 db limit, It's not 100% accurate since not everyone takes repacks their mufflers, inframes/out of frames, and engine mods.
http://www.oregonduneskoa.com/Assets/Graphics/Link_Art/decibel%20graph.jpg
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I've only tried the t5 compaired to the PC that I run now. The pro circuits come on earlier and stay on longer than the t5; You do get more a punch of power from the t5. My PC came on @5500 and topped out at 9k.
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Check the links I posted. Not sure on the paperwork, as I'm sure they don't want to be held liable for anything especially considering they can't tell if your packing is non existent. Unless they dB test it on spot how can the cop tell if it's over or under 90 dB. A piece of paper shouldn't make their mind. If so I will write one up for you
Seems as though Cascade and Toomey both say they will pass USFS sound requirement
Ya if the cop doesnt' have a DB meter I don't see how that can hold up. Here in Oregon the Forestry department has them but will only test you if you are extremely loud or being a jackass. When was the last time you repacked your silencers? That will help alot
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Sounds like the season for Glamis