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EZ-GO

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Posts posted by EZ-GO

  1. Take off the clutch cover and check the shifter adjuster by the shift star.. Mine came a lil loose and was acting goofy and wouldnt let me shift only second and third sometimes first.. I took off the clutch cover and adjusted it and that solved my problem..

     

    Hope this is the problem so you dont have to tear into the engine..

  2. Figured Id chime in here and update my previous post since I finally had the chance to take the quad on a good trip and test it out... Kevins work is awesome this bitch woke up alot with his porting.. Mostly stock motor but its deff a noticeable difference. I had a few problems with the order but Kevin was between shops and shit happens and he made it right. I would recommend his porting to anyone.

  3. What compression tester are you using? Are you holding the throttle wide open when kickin it over? sometimes you have to kick it over 10-15 sometimes 20 times to get the highest reading.

     

    Its a Actron pro compression tester.. and ya throttle was wide open, can bad reeds cause the compression difference? I used my old reeds cuz they still looked good, but knowing I needed to get some new ones soon. I dunno im lost, gonna pull the cyls off I guess and see whats up.

  4. Your port work can be uneven causing diffrent numbers but with a milled head you should be higher than 120 unless kevin was goin for that bnumber,who did the bore job,and did you check your squish

     

    Kevin did the bore and everything with new wiseco pistons.. maybe rings didnt seat right? Its not broke in yet not sure if that means anything.

     

    EDIT: didnt check the squish and havnt researched how to do that.. figured all that would be right after sending to HJR

  5. Ok so I rebuilt the banshee and did some heat cycles and then took it for a ride, came back and the compression on the right side is 120 and the left is 110 anyone have any idea why it would be like this.. plugs looked lil dark but I havnt chopped them yet. Still need some help with jetting too.

     

    Fresh top end from HJR with MX HARDCORE PORT

    Stock Stroke Hot Rodz Crank

    600 Ft above sea level

    190 main jet on single 35 mm PWK Carb

    1 1/2 turns out on air screw

    Trinity Exhaust

    Milled Head (HJR)

    +4 Timing

     

    Seems a little boggy down low and not sure why the compression is low..

     

    Any help would be much appreciated.

  6. The loop of the hose does not matter, you need to get the outlet from the caliper as the highest point so the air bubble will want to flow to the outlet and not be trapped in some corn."er of the caliper causing sponginess.

     

    Ive heard people lifting the ass of the bike or removing caliper before. As far as "The loop of the hose does not matter" read below from the clymers manual.

     

    Clymers Manual

     

    "The tube should be long enough so that a loop can be made higher than the bleeder valve to prevent air from being drawn into the caliper during bleeding." :unsure:

     

    Thats all I meant by the tube, but whatever works.. Just saying this is what worked for me.

     

    Cheers,

     

    EZ

  7. If the above does not work, try taking the caliper off the rotor and position it higher than the master cylinder with the bleeder screw at the highest point. Then bleed as above, air bubbles like to rise to the highest point.

     

    Ya ive heard that, but if you make the hose long enough to loop higher than the MC it should work. Also make sure you didnt put 2 of the washers on one side of the brake line, should be one on each side of the line.

  8. Ok I had a similar problem after I tore mine down and it wouldnt bleed.

     

    Pull the bleeder valve screw on the caliper off and make sure the lil whole by the threads isnt clogged. This was my problem and after I cleaned out that lil hole with a pin I put it back on, after that I did the following.

     

    1- cleaned the valve.

    2- put the bleeder valve back on caliper.

    3- hooked up a 2 ft hose with a 3/16" inner diameter to the bleeder valve

    4- filled up a little cup with brake fluid, and put the opposite end of the hose from the valve in the cup of brake fluid (DOT 4)

    5- opened the cap on the resevoir

    6- push brake lever all the way down and hold it.

    7- open bleeder valve screw and release air not letting the brake lever up till you close bleeder.

    8- repeat process till hard. (took me about 6 or 7 times until I seen there was no air bubbles in the lil cup that the hose ran into and all the old fluid was gone.

     

    Hope this helps it worked for me!

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