dimwit
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Posts posted by dimwit
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being below the port opening, it shouldn't lose any compression eh? by the time the rings are over that the ports will be uncovered anyway
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Does your fingernail fit in the scratch
not massive deep or anything, but still there on fresh cyls.
Was it done before or after the hone? If after, I'd run another pass with the hone and throw er together.
after, I'd say should have been bored next size up, this is a trail bike motor that WAS going together and staying together.
it looks like that person was trying to camfer the ports and lose control of the bit.
exactly, they def bit marks not some random scratch
I would have it fixed....tell those asshats you want a refund or a free fix !
yer will def have a talk to him, I was expecting more of a job than this eh.
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other cyl
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bought a 4 mil kit, other cyl is pretty much the same. paid the going rate for 4 mil ported stockers kit.
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would you be happy to run them like that ? don't know if I should be shitty or not
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I run the fullflights with ASR teflon heim's. The FFR heims are crap and will flog out in no time, doesn't matter what colour they are. keep an eye on 'em.
Once you factor the extra expense of the teflon heim's the FFR aren't that cheap.
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true that.
coulda had a second bike for what I've spent on freight
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yea i gave mark a call early in the week about my pipes and mine will be here monday man stop asking an go buy you some pipes and ride them the reviews on these pipes are nice everyone who has them says there great shit i will let you know by the end on the week hopefully cause i have a set of cpis inframe sb and rockets come but i think that rocket are going to be the better pipe an also did yall see the dyno sheet mark has that showed rockets blowing cpi away on topend wow
dyno sheet posted here anywhere?
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yer, borrinks the go. minkia sucks ass. I got a set of black ones, sent to OZ. 450 + 130 frieght, that's fucken good. can't get a set of fattys here for anywhere close to that.
Put 'em on tonight, look sweet, sound sweet. haven't ridden it yet cause waiting for my jets to show up, and fucked my ankle yesterday in a banshee related incident
next weekend maybe.
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had one on my shee for the last 2 months. It's copped a fair flogging and still straight, and they're right it has a lifetime warranty.
can't go wrong for 200bux
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borrink's selling black hi-temp and bare steel for 450 + shipping. look in the for sale section "R2's in stock". His chrome pipes are in the platers atm apparently.
minkia is doing same for 570 + shipping.
There should be a pair of R2's on their way to OZ, cant wait, yippee.
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I replaced my key with an inline blade fuse holder. that way you can still make it unstartable, by removing the fuse. hidden real easy, get the proper waterproof ones with the cap.
good idea on the light/kill switch, I might piss that off next, and just use my tether as a kill.
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all aussie muscle.
black XB falcon, 351 cleveland, toploader, 9". 6/71 waiting to go on - but kinda lost interest after buying banshee.
blue XWGT, 351 windsor, toploader, 9". is original GT, real collectable over here. $100k car. sold it just before the muscle car boom for $15k.
. It's in the will apparentley (sold it to dad).Speedway car is a holden torana. has a stroked 186ci out to 235ci straight 6 with triple webers, supra 5 speed, spooled 9". this races in an unlimited type class against some very healthy small blocks, dry sumped, brodix heads, injected, ect. always a front runner cause it handles the power it's got.
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if you can move it back and forth, then the splines are worn, simple as that. tightening the locknut up to the speced torque, which you should do, won't fix this . you may not be able to move it by hand once torqued properly, but a 350 twin will move it.
If you want to take the slop out of the worn spline you will need to clean it up and use loctite. I would use the loctite product "bearing retainer" it's specifically designed for jobs like this.
The problem here was you must not have used loctite on the allen head bolt in the locknut, they, are what clamps/locks the locknut in place. If they were torqued correctly AND loctited your 3piece lock-nut could not have come loose.
I think you will find that most USED, if not all USED splined joints like this will have some amount of "slop". My banshee has, and it is a well maintained quad, also running a brand new g-force axle with OEM sprocket and brake hubs.
$30 worth of fancy spanner that your probs only gonna use once is a waste of money, it won't fix ya problem.
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yep cool, good advise.
I liked my bikes sprung really stiff compared to my mates bikes, they were like" shitman, why dont ya just ride a hardtail". I'd jump on theirs and think "fuck this, this is like a pogo stick". I could land short on road gaps and ride out, they land short and snap frames
thats what i'll do then, order a shock with slightly heavier spring and just learn to ride it. and decide whether I need adjustables or not, gotta be tons better than stocko's.
I wish my gf new about the wonders of decent suspension,and why I NEEDED it. all I know is there's gunna be a shitstorm coming my way shortly. Shes still spewing about the set of ITP bajas, razr2's, gforce axle. and the +2+1 a-arms haven't arrived yet
If she doesn't leave after the shocks, I reckon I'm good to move onto the motor, pipes, cool head, ect with only minor repercusions.haha,haha what a total bastard
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thanks matt. that all makes sense. I had a fox float on my mtn bike and wasn't that impressed compared to a coil over so I will steer clear of them.
if I can expect the valving to be close but not right, then just another thought.
If I saved my pennies until I could afford a shock with adj rebound and comp, set-up to my weight 190lb, would there be enough adjustability in them to get a firm>>soft ride without having to revalve them, hence not having to freight them around the world 3-4 times.
dollar wise cheaper shock + shitload of freight = expensive shock + no freight. yes, no, maybe?
cheers, thanks for ya time.
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i hadn't read the latest in (yfz suspension fix), cause it seemed to turn into a shitfight. but now i've read it i understand 450 shocks no good for me. cheers
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okay, I think I've narrowed it down to new shocks no s/h.
I'm basically looking at stage 2 elkas, works g series, works steeler series or fox floats.
steeler series is alot cheaper but is a fully welded shock that can't be rebuilt, is that right?
i've been trying to find out the diff between the g series and steelers. is it worth the extra for g series.
i'll keep looking around here it's probs been answered somewhere.
thanks for the heads up on yzf450 shocks, i was pretty tempted for a bit $$$.
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If you have $800 to spend on shocks, skip the works and get a GOOD set of shocks like PEP, Ohlins, Axis or Elka. You can find a used pair on ebay for much less than $800, then send them to So Cal suspension systems and have them setup for your weight.
yep, i hear what you are saying, thats the other option. and this is pretty much what I'm trying to figure out. whether it is worth it to buy s/h top of the line and rebuild, or new stage1/2 shocks, especially considering my riding is fast trail only. no jumps. i know the best shocks you can buy will always be better performers, but compared to mxer's, they are gonna have a easy life, kinda.
the problem is I live in aus, so I'm going to buy seconhand racers shocks sight unseen, cross my fingers they aren't junked, and hopefully get the seller to send 'em away to socal. otherwise i'm looking at 150 shipping to oz, 150 shipping back to us for a rebuild, 150 shiping back to oz. all for shocks that could be rooted anyway.
i have been looking for s/h elka pep axis ect shocks on the bay, but not to many come up and alot wont ship outside US.
yfz450 shocks come up locally often. they are comp and rebound adj and rebuildable. whats your opinions on them? anyone? i think i read they were soft as on shee, but could you get them to work with a rebuild + higher rate spring or give a miss?, the fullflight a-arms i've ordered aren't the ones for the yzf450 shocks but i could mod the shock body if I only got 'em for $80 like the last pair that went off.
So do SoCal actually sell shocks or just rebuild what you supply?
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thanks, i've been looking at the works shocks. whats the difference between the steelers and the g series? which should i aim for.
cheap steering stabilizer, yer, never even thought of that. they'd be a pretty good thing over rocky shit i'd imagine. what's a decent and/or cheap one, are they rebuildable or throw-away, how much $$.
everyone seems to steer clear of triple rate springs cause a banshee is front heavy, that right?
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Yer thanks man, I got off pretty light injury wise, only really ground off one of my love handles with the rear tyre as it was running over me
.got it straightened pretty quick, went riding last weekend with some two wheeled bike mates. one mate tryed an overtaking manouver on a firebreak that just wasn't there . ended up landing his front wheel, 2010 yzf450, you know the fuel injected rocketship ones, on one of my back tyres, i look over as in "what the fuck was that" to see his bike doing cartwheels and him doing a "superman doing yoga @60mph" impression. man he is sore, (and a sook). so now looking for another riding buddy for the time being, preferably one not made from marshmallow
. as I tell my injured mate.for a dimwit I am a bastard.
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hi, dimwit here.
I'm trying to figure out what the "best bang for ya buck" shock would be for me. I only ride trails, alot of rutted out and rocky type of stuff, no real techy tight woods, more flat out ridge lines and fire breaks, i spend alot of my time in 4th-5th gear band hoping not to hit a rim buster. I'm not into jumping or mx. I'm too old for that shit (36) and the last 15 years on DH mountain bikes, mainly banshee's, have my ancles and wrists floppy as fuck, if I sneeze without bracing i fall flat on my arse
.because of that reason (no jumpijng) i'm thinking I dont need a rezzy shocks, opinions?. even though my standard shocks atm fade with the riding I do, is that cause it's a shit shock in general, or because of heat build up, or emulsion(frothy oil), considering this would rezzies be worth the extra $$$?.
I've been looking at banshee shocks for a while, and have found most of my info lurking here, but living in oz this stuff is EXPENSIVE, I will most likely order from the states so I need to get this right as it's roughly 150p+h, so sending them back to get revalved ect would be prohibative to say the least. alot of stuff I see have a pretty broad weight range ie. 110-160lb mx or 130- 200lb rec trails for the one pr shocks. It would seem to be a pretty broad range, is this range all covered with preload? cause the shocks I've been looking at aren't adj comp + rebound. Or is this just ebay marketing, tryin' to flog as many as possible, to people that can't be fucked asking someone that knows? everthing I've learnt about mtn bike shocks tells me that preload can't cover that much weight range. the reason i ask is cause i dont want to cough for adj comp and rebound shocks if I don't have to. I was hoping to get my shock valved for my weight exactly, not a weight range. I've been 190lb for the last 10 years and that aint changing, so why should i bother with adj comp and rebound, it would only be handy for intial setup wouldn't it? once I had my mtn bike shock dialed in i didn't touch it. Am I missing something?
only looking at front shocks for now. But are the std rears any good? I see they have adj comp and rebound, what can you do? rebuild revalve ect? or not worth it. I have seen revalve kit's online so if it's a matter of revalving it to my preference, I can do, I think, I don't mind fiddling around. I've done bike ones, 5th element's anyway, no nitrogen in them though. nitrogen charge doable for backyarder?
last thing I'm on a fairly strict budget mid 30's=mortgage, ect ,not alone there I know. Not long (2wks) after i bought my shee I barrel rolled it down a hill (steep learning curve + steep hill = carnage) so have been replacing everthing i bent, not planned for upgrade$.
So it was stock standard, now has a +2 rear axle and +2 +1 fullflight A-arms (i like hiem joints), it kind of worked out allright cause now I have to get my handling sorted first, rather than just go for bulk power upgrades as per usual.
if I could get something that suited me for around $800 that would be good, what should I be looking at? brands? models? sellers?
I think for shocks I would like to stick to new or rebuilt to new specs by a repped builder.
any feedback is great, steer me in the right direction.
gimme your opinion pls
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
they are all chamferred, maybe just bad camera angle
about the same size chamfers than on my stock jugs.