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Banshee Rider239

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Posts posted by Banshee Rider239

  1. use an impact wrench on the clutch bolt it should not keep coming loose and it might have one of those washer that you bend over the nut

    and the idle i have to cover all marks

    turn down the idle screw (on the tors or side of carb if tors eliminated)

    air fuel screw might be lean or rich how many turns is it ?

    make sure the cable isnt bound up

     

    Will get on it first thing in the morning and I'll let you know and send you a pic before and after

  2. ok, list all mods on bike,compression? what pipes? type of reeds. airbox or pods? list elevation and temp. in your area.

     

    EDIT: people are gonna say somthing about you posting in the wrong section.

     

     

    bored the next step from stock, exaughst DMC 916's , good strong compression compared to kick (not tested yet), stock reeds , single air filters , temp 70-85 degrees weekly, elevation 231.4 ft

  3. wow!!,i think you are talking about the air mix screw you can run it in or out to fine tune the air fuel mixture.from your post i think you might be in over your head.if you dont know how to to tune a carb. you can lean out your motor and have a meltdown.i sugest you find a friend with some experience to help you out.meanwhile search and study so you can do it yourself next time.

     

     

    mechanics around my area are very high im not a cheap guy but its not like these things take a rocket scientist i have learned alot while rebuildin this shee so im pretty sure with a little help from you guys i can have it runnin with no problem ....the problems im having are minor it could be resolve with a few notes and tips and suggestions from others ....i have gotten this far might as well keep goin so far alot of information i have heard has helped me well and ive learned a few things dat a few beginners just dont know off hand but im eager to learn more so help me out

  4. what is loose the bolt that holds the basket on and what do you mean by floppy check the clutch springs

     

     

    the clutch springs are tight ....and the clutch is loose and floppy again (clutch= what you hold when you change gears) ......the bolt middle bolt inside the clutch case was sticking out a lil so i tightned it up an my handle clutch part got tight also ...but now it is loose again

  5. hey wats up HQ fam i have few questions about the clutch

     

    1. When the clutch handle is floppy what has to be adjusted? (last time i told you i adjusted it and made it tight but what i did was tightned the strew(in the middle of clutch basket) when you open the clutch case a lil an i felt my clutch and it was tight so i just stopped there instead of doing what you told me with the rod and the ball. However, its now loose again and it idle very high when i kickstarted it ....

     

    2. What do i have to do with the ball and rod the instructions were a little unclear ?

     

    3. Can the clutch be the reason everytime i kickstart it idles high to the point that i have to turn it off?

     

    Or does the carbs just need to be adjusted

  6. Having to roll start a banshee does not mean you need a rebuild,yes low compression is one issue that can cause it but by far is not the only one.

     

    I have personaly seen all these issues cause hard starting on bikes with good top ends.

     

    Dirty carbs/choke tube/dirty air filter/fouled plugs that still fire/bad grounds/weak stator/coil gap/spark plug cap/old gas/bad conecttion in the wiring/weak spark wich can be caused in 10 different places/poor jetting ect/wet air filter/over oiled air filter.

     

    The very first thing i do when a banshee is hard to start,unless there is obviously a psi issue, is make sure the air filter isnt saturated,and try a fresh set of plugs even if the ones in it sill spark-and unplug the tors.

     

    If your psi is over 110 in both cylinders and is within 5 psi of eachother i would be looking in other places for your problem.

    Even without a psi test if the kick feels pretty solid i would try some new plugs.

     

    thanks reynolds for the different point of view

  7. sounds like the whole problem is in ur kicker area.pull the clutch cover and see whats up with the kicker gear and parts in there,bushings,whatnot.check to make sure ur gears are good and meshing right from kicker gear to clutch basket gear to crank gear.while u have the cover off,replace water pump seal and make sure bearing is good.replace rubber o-ring on water neck tube that goes thru the case and get the paper gasket for the water pump cover.as for stator,its still good,match the colors and solder them back together and use heat shrink tubing when u do it.its been a while,but i believe there is the 4 for the plug and i wanna say the black and yellow stay seperate from the block plug,the are for lighting and should connect to the other black and yellow by rear brake reservoir to the other ones.hope this helps

     

     

    Thanks appeciate the tips i manage to fix the leak an fix the wires got it to fire but still had to push start it what could i do to make it fire when i kick?

  8. Ok guys, (BEFORE I TORE DOWN MY BANSHEE out of the blue when i started to kick my kickstart i could not get it to crank unless i pushstart and it rides perfect) i tore my whole banshee down and i just finished putting it back together yesterday. ..but when i went to kick couldnt get it to crank ....(spark plugs are go6od) ...i pull started it and it bogged down weird didnt crank i need help ..(ANOTHER PROBLEM--->) the hose from radiator to the jugs is leaking water...and water is leaking out of my water pump part tried sealing it with the gasket maker but it still leaks ....i wonder could it be the bearing that i put into the water pump not being pushed far enough causing it to leak or what ? but i am gonna buy the gasket that goes to the water pump because the one i have on there has a lil wear in two parts of it ....(ANOTHER PROBLEM --->) When i took my engine of my bike i put it on the porch for a few hours before i brought it into the house and the dog chewed on my wire coming from my stator to my wiring harness so i looked at the part that was chewed and it looks like i have 6 stator wires that are spliced to fit the four wires going into the harness plug up...so do i need to get a stator or wat?................Can someone please help me with this problem i need resolutions

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  9. a stock crank should be no more than .002 out of true,most i take out are around .003-.004,.Remember this is the heart of your motor is the crank any vibration there will harmonize through the whole motor.Another important thing to be checked is center bearing runout this is where most banshee crank noise will come from and not everyone pays attention to it.If your adding compression a weld is a must plus a tz or max load bearing should be added IMO.Remember if its out allready

    do it once do it rite

     

    Thanks man

  10. I have a set of stock cylinders off my 01 shee stock port and bore will need bored dont have anything wrong with them just took off to put on my ported set i will take $200 shipped.Also have 2 stock heads for 1 is milled .020 and 1 is milled .030 no nicks never been hurt $40 each shipped. Have a stock crank i took out to and as far i can tell is in real good shape $80 shipped I will post up some pics tomorrow nite cant get my camera to load them on my laptop right now. If these prices are to high hit me up.Thanks

     

     

    i would like to know more about the crank an pics an if so post a link so i can buy

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