Chuckie02Shee

Finally got the time to reply with results(WORK SUCKS!!!) I went back over my engine with Windex and found that both the spark plugs were leaking and both the VForce 3 reed cages to be leaking also. After what seemed to be tightening the F*** out of both issues I'm still leaking off about a half lb of PSI in 6 minutes. Before it was a lot more There were no other leaks including the PTO key-way seal. Is this acceptable to put in the frame and BRRAAAPPPPP ?!!!

I finally got the Shee engine back together. Cylinders measured out good enough for a light hone and new rings on factory pistons(64mm). All new seals and replaced all o rings in the cool-head,and replaced all gaskets. I went to check for leakage,I was told to put 6psi of air pressure into engine and should hold that for 6 minutes.I put 6psi of air pressure in engine and it leaked off 2 psi in 6 minutes!! Is there a certain list of protocol to do a leak down check or is there something wrong with the engine,and will it still run like this? All feedback is welcome. Thanks in advance

Thanks sleeper06 that's exactly what it looks like. Going to go ahead and put her together!!!

That's the problem,the longer one actually fits as it should by looking at it. the short one is so short that it almost isn't captured in the case. the bear hasn't spun around and clipped itself either...

While putting my Shee engine back together I noticed that the RH side crank bearing pin is much shorter than the LH side is this normal? I was thinking that it was to denote LH from RH,but doesn't make sense. Both sides in the case to capture the crank bearings are the same size. All feedback is welcome and appreciated!! Thanks in advance

Do you by chance still have the FMF exhaust?

Would you still happen to have these parts? Let me know!!

What's your bottom dollar on T5's shipped?

Are Pro circuit Platinum pipes still available? does this sale also include mid-pipes and silencers?

Did sale go through? I'm still interested in buying your T5's if available. Sorry didn't see that they were sold,Thanks anyway

I've re jetted my Shee to 290 mains,and 27.5 pilots with air screws 1.5 turns out on 21cc domes and 93 octane.No air box with K&N pods w/outer-wears and DMC 916 exhaust system I'm @ 885 ft here in Missouri . Engine idles and throttle response is spot on and crisp,but from time to time engine acts like it's running out of fuel and wants to die while idling or moving throttle and it comes out of it if I quickly pull the choke out half way. I don't have to leave the choke on,just a quick pull and it idles and throttle response is back to crisp and spot on. This happens whether I'm riding it at any throttle opening or idle. What am I missing here? Any and all feedback is welcome!! Thanks Charlie

Where do I buy the tool?

OK what if I don't own the handy dandy little tool that is being used in the video?How about setting them by the little round clear windows in the carbs?

Is there a video tutorial on how to adjust and synchronize the carbs on my Shee? I've spent the best part of 2 weeks rebuilding,rejetting and removing TORS.Now the problem is getting them adjusted and synced.I've worked on them most of the day today between classes and after classes.Now it won't idle down at all!!! I'm so frustrated that I had to put it up for the night before I lost my cool!!! : All feedback is most welcome Thanks in advance Charlie

Thanks guys!! I have finished rebuilding,rejetting and removing TORS from my 02 Shee.I have noticed a def increase in low RPM snap!!!! problem is that I just noticed my inline fuel filter has a crack in it and it is sucking air in w/ the fuel.So I'm going to replace filter and continue making adjustments.Will update!!! Again thanks for all feedback!!! Charlie

Fuel bowls were switched!! Thanks

Ok...I'm a newb!!! I'm ready to install carbs on my Shee. I bought the VForce 3 kit and there are no markings on either of the reed valves that are in the kit that denotes which is top or bottom. Does it matter? I don't believe there is a left or right ,so is there a top or bottom? Also noticed that the VForce 3 kit doesn't have reed cages.Is this the way they are designed?I know that they use snap in reed petals and don't use screws to hold them in. All feedback is welcome and appreciated Thanks Charlie

I found them,they are slightly larger than vent outlets!!! Thanks for the info!! Charlie

WOW!!! maybe that is why I've had a hard time starting it!!! If it sat for awhile or was less than 65 degrees outside it wouldn't start (Chocked or not) unless I gave it a quick shot of starting fluid. I also noticed that if I had the fuel petcock in the"ON" position that it would run for awhile then die as it run out of gas,even with a full tank.It would run forever in the"RES" position.Took fuel tank off and took apart petcock,it had some crud in it but not enough to make it act that way. I don't recall removing ANY vacuum lines,all there was connected was a fuel line that was t'd too fuel both carbs,and 4 vent tubes(2 for each carb),and 2 fuel bowl drain tubes. Does someone have a diagram of all hoses so that I may put it back together correctly? I also run into a little snag, as I was installing new parts I accidently broke off the new main jet. I was able to get it out,had to order another one from Rocky Mountain ATV and it will be here Monday!!

I finally got around to removing TORS,installing idle screws(drilled and tapped) and rebuilding carbs on my Shee. They're looking SWEET!!!! Problem is that I found the real reason it wasn't running as good as it should. Upon tearing down the right carb,I noticed that there wasn't a brass tube coming straight down from the main carb body.There was one coming from the fuel bowl that was at an angle on both right and left carbs,but not the straight one out of the main carb body on the right side.Is there a cheap easy solution to fix this other than buying a new carb?I don't have that kind of money to spend!!! or if someone had one they would sell,I also am needing a right side fuel bowl,prior owner stripped the drain screw and I can't remove it to replace with the new one that came in the rebuild kit.It doesn't leak,but I would like to be able to drain fuel bowls if need to. Thanks in advance Charlie