SteveCZ28

stock port cylinders bored .080" (will need to be bored to .090" over) what could you sell these for and a stock head????

Would 125 take the stock cylinders and pistons with the stock head?

stock bore/port cylinders w/oem pistons stock head what kind of condition are these in??

like title says im wanting to get a stock port left cylinder. id like it to be at or near 65.5mm if not thats ok i could get it bored out. let me know. thanks in advance

lol ok.

Im looking at a set of big bore cylinders, but don't know if I can. Use them being as it did come off a 4mil motor. But I dont Know if he is running stroker pistons or not. He says the port timing for these cylinders are 150. I dont know enough about port timing to begin with, let alone what the stock port timing on a stock banshee would be

ok looking into seal kits, is/are these all the needed seals for my motor???

But about how much does it cost to put sleeves in?

ok ive seen a few sets of big bore cylinders for sale. and i am curious how to make stock cylinders into a big bore, being as i believe the stock cylinders are maxed out at 66.5 mm....but ive seel some that are 69mm so how exactly do you make them into big bores? is it using a different sleeve?

i appreciate all the good useful information. but i went ahead and bought a stock stroke hot rod crank thats been trued and welded.

its ok guys. i passed on this crank and bought a hot rod crank with hot rod, rods

well im currently head-less, as my stock head got destroyed when my motor went lean and grenaded. so i can technically look at all sides to this project, and build it once, the right way

oh ok. now i ran into a 2mm headgasket also....could that also work for this application, or am i still running a high risk of getting a bad air leak? im currently in the market for cylinders as mine were at 66.5 mm and the left cylinder detonated and scored it all to death so i cannot use these cylinders anymore. unless i were to sleeve. so i will just be on the look out for a nice set of stock cylinders, or maybe a fresh pair of 4mm cylinders that are already ported

thank you for the very useful information. now here is where im confused. cutting the stock head down. if i cut it 2mm, wouldnt it make it to the where the head is 2mm closer to the cylinders,a nd end up causing piston to head slamming into each other? the 4mm crank im looking at is a hot rods crank with a number of hr 204 on the crank and the rods say ck 158. so i would need to cut my head down 2mm and install stroker pistons??? also if i were to go the cool head route, what exactly would i be looking for? will it say stroker domes? or is there a certain sized dome that will allow the 2mm of extra travel?

ok im trying to look at everry possible direction for my banshee that blew up....looking at a 4mm hot rod crank. trued and welded but have a few questiosn....if i got the 4mm stroker crank, could i use a 4mm cylinder spacer, and get away with it? i mean it sounds pretty simple put the stroker in, space a set of stock cylinders the extra 4mm the crank puts out and put in a set of stock pistons and it should work right? or is there more to the puzzle, like possibly needing a adjustable stator platte and other items??? im a new guy to the banshees so dont be too harsh. im just looking for information is all, as i wanna build a strong banshee and not have to worry about it

there isnt a pic on the listing,. i emailed him to get one. i see there is a wr388 on ebay....but still same thing. dont know anything about it

i found a good used crank via craigslist. but he says the numbers on the crank are wr388 l2....when i look it up i cant find squat about it. he says its a wiseco hot rod crank...im not very familiar with after market cranks yet to know what exactly it is

ok good to know

i was planning on it... where are the other 2 seals at?? also, for the top and bottom cases, is there a gasket out there for this? or can i use rtv?

Lol yea I was planning on a new crank and new seals also a oil seal for the shifter rod as mine dripped some oil

Im not going to spend over 1k in a top end. That's more than I bought the entire bike for

well i tore my bottom end down today. to my surprise, the crank is still good, not a spec of metal chunks/shavings in bottom end at all. although the left outter seal was good, but the right outter seal had a few cracks and look like it had spun a few times as it looked worn, but not horrible. bearings are good in the crank, and bearing seats in the case are good on both upper and lower cases. but after doing some reading, im not going to use my stock crank, even though it still feels good and has no noticable movement in the rod bearings, im gonna do it right and get a wiseco, or hot rod crank, and then do a fresh top end on this, as i dont wanna put it together with a stock crank and tear it all back down again

still have the big bore cylinders???

they arent pins in the piston. their thin and flat, like chunks of piston ring. but i do hope its not the crank ike you say it is...i completly tore apart both carbs, and thei both clean. not a spot of dirt in any of them. i pulled all the jets out and you can see lite thru them all. it would do the dieseling, oand high revving on its own. it would often do it right off idle. i would hit the kill switch and it would keep going until i would pull the choke completly out and it would kill it then. how much is it to rebuild the crank, and start fresh on it?? i knew i would need the top end but wasnt planning on doing the bottom end. im good with 2 strokes, but have never dug into the bottom ends before. but thats not stopping me tho from figuring it out

i just wanna get this thing up and going to where i can actually ride it