ryana1987

Just under 100 on the tester on a freezing cold engine..ive read it should be 120ish? perhaps ill just throw my cylinders over a cliff? Lol

the flywheel nut come loose on the prevoius owner so the plate, pickup and magneto were chewd up when i got it. The oem stator only had minor scuffs so ill test it out tomorrow also

Ill check compression again tomrrow and post numbers, we have a good tester but the engine has a fresh bore with all new seals and gaskets... and I set piston to cylinder clearance + ring gaps so it better have dam good compression when i check it lol thanks for the help so far

I had a ripped screen on the "on" possition so i just put a new one in before i did the first start of the engine

I replaced with an RMStator and magneto

the stator was replaced a couple years ago and only used a summer...was in the warm house after that. just put a new pickup/cdi and ignition coil on I clean one carb at a time so they never get mixed up, yes stock ones, crossover tubes on and float hights good. I bought the cylinders already ported, still have the old ones and seem to work alright haha whats wrong with trinity? learn from the mistakes i guess.. it has LOTS of fire though...like i said, the plugs are still dry after kicking for awhile...then all of a sudden it starts and idles great.

sorry to bother you guys but im out of options on what to look at on this dam thing... I just did a rebuild on my banshee with trinity stage 3 ported cylinders and vforce4 reeds... the first start I had to push start it to get it to fire up and run, after that it starts up first kick. A couple days later ill have to kick it 50 times even with the 30 pilots in and ive cleaned the carbs 3 times everything electricals been replaced... Ive heard ported cylinders have lower compression untill started? I pull the plugs out and there dry after i kick for abit... used to start right up no problem, heres my engines mods pro design coolhead with 20cc domes trinity stage 3 dune port cylinders .30 weiseco pistons welded crank with maxload and tz bearings vforce 4 reeds 30 pilot 340 mains, alba needles uni filer no lid fmf fatty and powercore 2's billet impeller with engine ice coolant +4 timing plate tors removed 95+ hp clutch

okay thanks about the tip when it comes to the cases! the crank i was getting was brand new and welded. Ill wait about the porting this time then and if i get them resleeved ill worry about the port and polish then, also I was not impressed when i took the reeds out and seen that they were only stock and not the vforce3 ones that i was told that i got....there were words said

Well its winter here and the engine has a slight knock, might as well tear it apart!... well it wasn't a pretty sight ...im getting a new top half of the engine case because the chain must have broke it before i got it haha , im sending the cylinders to be bored for the new pistons and putting in a new crank and its got a good clutch. I am going to put a new head with 20cc domes for pump gas anything else i should think about? also this is the last bore for the cylinders so unless i got them resleaved it would be a waist to port them correct? anything else i should think about doing while its apart?

the air filter covers off of coarse...but other then the tors system removed, .60 oversized pistons, vforce3 reeds, shaved head, fmf fatty and power core 2's there is nothing else. I always ran 87 octane because he did and im not sure what size the pilot is inside...will that help the idle also? im new to this 2 stroke carb stuff where the jet sizes are very important, thanks!

i have no idea, .the guy only said it had new jets put in...oh and the colder the weather the longer it takes to get going. i don't know what size the domes are either but probably stock because its the stock head. also should my engine have a knock at low rpm and then go away after the throttle goes up? i use pump gas 40:1.....

i shake it all around to mix the gas up....then turn the gas on, pull the choke give it about 3 kicks and it fires right up and runs about 5 seconds and dies no matter what i do with the choke or how much throttle i give it and then i kick for 20 mins i get an acasional backfire though....i've even taken out the plugs and checked to see if it was flooded with a mini torch but it wasen't flooded???. once it warms up it runs great but it has never idled ....idle screws are out and dies when you let off thanks and sorry for the late reply i didn't expect to get a reply back so soon haha

I got my banshee 3 months ago and have done some of mods like fatty's and power core 2's... the shaved head, vforce3 reeds, twist throttle, .60 oversized, jets, idlescrews and tors removal were done right before i got it. I put a new magneto, pickup and ignition coil, voltage reg, spark plugs, stator and adjuster plate so spark is STRONG. i mix 40:1.......but when its cold ill pull the choke and kick 3 times....it fires up...runs about 5 seconds and dies, so the kicking begins(and yes i shake the wheeler before i turn the gas on)after about 20 mins of kicking like a mad ninja it will finally start and runs great. and if it sits for more then 30 mins i have to kick for 20 mins again, and even with the idle screws turned to the max it still wont idle.. i am thinking carbs? this is my first dual carb atv plz help