ceetwarrior

Well guys, found this video. Thank god I'm not the only one dealing with this. Looks like I'll be buying a used OEM stator.

Thanks guys for the info. What could be 'bad' about the stator to cause it to run great until powerband? Is it possible that it's installed incorrectly? I still have the stock flywheel, but RM tested it and it still has good magnetic charge...

Ok guys, this thing is really pissing me off. I've been riding bikes my whole life, and I am certainly not a newbie to the game mechanically either. I sent the 6 month old CDI back to RM Stator and Mike tested it and confirmed it was bad. They sent me a brand new one, no questions asked, and it's still doing the exact same thing on any one of the spark curve settings. As soon as the orgasm powerband hits the thing goes into a LIMP mode exactly like a rev limiter. I mean it's as if you just held on the rev limiter until ya click another gear then it does it all over again but without all the power. Me and my friend are about to pull hair out trying to figure this out. WTF!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Well, I changed to stock CDI, it won't even start. So it must be dead. Put the RM CDI back in, it starts up first kick. Now I need another CDI to test, a buddy is gonna see if he has one layin around. I'm going to swap coils next. And check the Stator pickup gap, I guess. Thats all there is left to cause electrical rev issues, correct?

Not sure, I haven't rode it since I sold it to him with bad motor. And he isn't familiar with it to know how it should run. As soon as I took it around the block today I knew something was up. Hell, even with a bad crank seals these banshee's are quick lol. Here in a couple hours I'll swap that CDI and try that first.... Do you guys run the stock heat spark plugs in a mild shee?

Thanks guys. I did theTORS delete on it when I owned it. God I hope it's not the stator. It has less than 5hrs on it as well. Could it be the gap on stator to pick-up? I gapped it with a business card (as recommended) when I put it on but haven't checked it since. It's got FMF Gold series pipes. Toomey 2-1 filter. I am at 6000ft altitude, my friend told me that the jetting WAS at 170 mains, and the shop changed to 210, I think. The thing runs perfect. Starts first kick, low end, everything is great except this rev issue. The reason he took it to a shop to tune it was we could not for the life figure out what was wrong with it. Then we found out the crank seals were SHOT causing some major chaos. They rebuilt the motor and jetted it.

hey guys, workin on my friends (my old) Banshee tryin to get it ready for St. Anthony's trip this weekend. As soon as the powerband comes on it hits (what feels like) rev limiter. It's got a full rebuild, crank seals, .030" top end, etc. Just professionally jetted by a local shop in town. I seriously don't think it's jetting... It's got maybe five hours total, on rebuild. It has a full RM Stator kit. HO coil/wires/plugs, adjustable CDI, and HO stator. I've tried adjusting the CDI setings, and doesn't seem to change. I called Mike at RM (great guy to deal with) and he said, 1-5 is for lower end power, and 5-9 is top end power. But no change, it seems. I was thinking about putting the old CDI on, just to try if that's the problem... Any other suggestions? Thanks!!

Thanks for the advice....! Dumb question, but when I do the compression test, do I have to have the other spark plug installed? Also, the clymer manual describes the leak down test as pretty extensive/hard. Saying it requires special plugs to seal it up properly.. etc..

Hey guys, I'll try to make this short. '92 Banshee with bolt-on's. I can't get it to run and stay running after months of being down. Left cylinder has 20PSI compression, right cylinder has 45PSI. The symptoms I am having are consistant with Clymer manual describing crank seal leaking oil into cylinder. It's SMOKING like crazy and blowing oil out of the right side pipe and crank case breather hose. Backfiring, and won't stay running or drive under power. Am I on the right track with the crank seal. IF the running and oil problems are the bottom end, then what about the top? Do I need a new top end as well? Any help in right direction would be great. Thanks

RMStator is taking care of me big time. They pre-paid shipping for me to send all of their parts AND my parts to them to have them all tested. The tech guy (Mike) personally owns a Banshee and is going to find out the problem. The reason why it's such an odd problem is the stator checks out correctly (ohm) but will not produce any voltage when kicking over. I'm wondering if my flywheel has lost magnetic power? Although it snaps into place when I install it. Who knows, but in a few weeks hopefully it'll be running. Who knows, maybe it's a bad stator. We'll find out!

Well, what happend was I was riding around fine when it died. It just turned off, no spark. At that point I had already had the tors bypassed at the throttle and key delete. Kill switch worked just fine too. But during this whole process I've gone through and double checked every possible thing. I did gap the pickup at .014". My flywheel also snapped into place with force of the magnet so I can't imagine that it's bad...? Yes, wood key in place. I have no voltage at the directly after the pickup, when kicking it over. I think the stator is bad out of the box..... I called RM, but they were out to lunch, haven't called back yet.

That's funny, we found the same thing. We got no voltage before or after swapping those wires. The g/w & r/w wires from the pickup ohmed out fine by the book; 95-140ohm. It had 115. Is it possible that my flywheel magnet is weak? I'm gonna call RMstator and see if they can help too...

Thanks guys! I have cut and removed most all of the black and yellow wires in the harness for the TORS. There is some black wires I'm not sure what to tie together yet... Well, didn't know RM had bad rep before I bought the stuff. Good to know now. I am wondering if my stator is bad out of the box. I'm trying to diagnose it right now. I should get 12v immediatelyat the stator when I kick start it, right?

hey guys, new to the forum and Banshee's for that matter. But certainly not new to quads. I have searched and searched all over the internet and cannot seem to find the info I need. So if anyone could help that'd be great! Project Banshee is underway but I have a major lack-of-spark issue with it I need to fix first. I need a wiring diagram or instructions on how to remove the TORS system COMPLETELY without buying those kits. I try to only do one thing at a time then I make sure it runs before I move on. I've done a key delete, TORS bypass (at the throttle), new RM stator, RM adjustable CDI, RM high fire coil. Still no spark. So now I've cut a ton of wires (relating to TORS) out of the harness and still no spark. I need to know what I to tie with what. My plan is to leave the TORS wires connected to the carbs (for now) so I don't have to buy the kit. I just need wiring info to clean up these harnesses. Thanks!