thacker588

I agree with you, why is he so down on the YFZ shock? I have them on my Banshee along with a set of +3+1 Full Flight 12 POINT adjustable a arms set up with the Chromoly Heims, the guy I talked to from full flight said he started producing that kit for the guys like me that did the YFZ-450 conversion that we not totally satisfied with it. Like he said most people who do the conversion do a total swap a arms, spindles, steering stem steering stem flag, hubs, brakes and brake lines the whole nine yards and they sell the stock Banshee parts. The set up I have allows you to adjust the a arms and use all the swapped YFZ-450 parts. I love my set up. I rode a buddy's 2009 Bill Balaence Edition YFZ-450R, and it rides almost the exact same as my Banshee. The only thing I wish I could swap that makes his bike a little more comfortable is the seat; its a little nicer than the Banshee seat and it seems to help out the center of gravity quit a bit. I built my Banshee to Race in the Kentucky Off Road Hare Scrambles, I am the only 2 stroke quad racing out of 68 sport quads in the point series next year as far as I know. I don't know where he gets there bad for hair scrambles over 50% of the racer race stock YFZ-450R or the YFZ-450X. About the only mods you see them do is skid plates, wheels and tires, and a slip on silencer.

I'll help you out and tell you what I did; I have ask several different members on here questions about parts and upgrades and they never reply? I'm new maybe thats the reason. I had a Barnett dirt digger clutch kit in my Banshee when I bought it, it was the only mod the four wheeler had, after I got the fever and start pouring the money into power and suspension upgrades I noticed it wasn't pulling in the power band like it should. I figured out the clutch was slipping. I bought a Heavy Duty Banshee Clutch kit off eBay from a company named Drive-Line ATV Performance. It was the best clutch in my opinion after looking at virtually every clutch made for the Banshee. I payed $59.95 plus $7.50 shipping. I pasted the item description bellow: YAMAHA BANSHEE CUSTOM HEAVY DUTY CLUTCH KIT!! FRICTION PLATES ARE FROM A YZF1000 STREET BIKE!! THIS IS OUR ECONOMY CLUTCH KIT THAT IS A LITTLE CHEAPER IN PRICE COMPARED TO OUR DUNE AND DRAG KITS. EVERYTHING IS THE SAME EXCEPT THIS KIT UTILIZES OEM STYLE SHAPED STEEL PLATES WHICH HAVE A LITTLE LESS SURFACE AREA COMPARED TO THE FULL SIZE STEEL PLATES IN OUR MORE EXPENSIVE DRAG KITS. WE WANTED TO OFFER A BETTER PRICED KIT FOR THE GENERAL EVERYDAY RIDER WHO DOESN'T NEED A CLUTCH THAT CAN HOLD 90 + H.P.. THIS KIT WILL HOLD UP TO 75 H.P. The clutch is a little stiffer than stock, but I have a lot of performance upgrades and it shows no sign of slipping. Take a look here a ling to the kit: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-CUSTOM-HEAVY-DUTY-CLUTCH-KIT-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem439e669671QQitemZ290420332145QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I like it, let me know what you think when you get this message, I'm starting to wonder if I'm the only one that can see my post. Thanks, Jim

I'm new to Banshee HQ, and you seem like you have a wealth of knowledge on these bikes. What size jets would you start with in a 2004 Banshee with stock OEM carbs, PT mids, Ready Filter with OE air box with lid ON, adjustable timing plate, and a Trinity's stage IV Cool Head/21cc domes? My elevation is 700 ft above sea level. I don't know if this matters but the motor has also been punched .020. Please contact me back as soon as possible.

Everything I have ever used that Paul Turner makes is great quality!!!! I run Paul Turner Mids on my 04 Yamaha Banshee and the power is great, and the finish is 2nd to none. That being said I run a Trinity Stage IV Cool Head and 21cc Domes and it is a awesome head. Why aren't you considering the Trinity's Head?

I know it wont help out the cooling factor; but there is a Powder Coating shop in Harrodsburg Kentucky called Armstrong Powder Coating. He Powder Coats for Link-Belt Construction Equipment, and Harley Davidson when they get backed up. He has a Powder Coat Called Chrome Coat. When he sprays it on it looks like primer and after baking it looks like Wal-Mart Chrome spray paint, but after it curs that shit looks awesome. He is slow as Hell, I had a friend that was dead set on using a stock OEM Head, because he feared the O rings would fail. He sent a stoker to Trinity's Racing and had them shave it 0.030 and mill it polish the combustion chambers, sand blast it , and add there Turbo Head mod. Then he sent it to this guy "Armstrong". The Chrome coat filled in the pits and made the head look unbelievable. The difference between his Powder finish and a polished aluminum finish that another rider we ride with had that he got from Hy-Tech-Racing off eBay (best polished Oem head I have seen yet. Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150427338626&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) was night and day different. The polished head looked like someone had chrome plated over rust compared the the Powder Chrome Head, and he never has to polish it and the finish stays brilliant. They were arguing over head dispersant, and the Chrome coated head vs The polished head so I borrowed a hand held temperature gun from work with us on our next ride. Both Banshees had stock internals running ATV Blue engine Ice Coolant, one was a 1997, one was a 2000, one had Toomey T-5's, and the other had FMF Gold Series Fatty pipes, Both heads were milled 0.030, both guys were running 255 jets in there carbs, and we all filled up out of the same 32:1 Klotz Super Techno-Plate mixed with 93 octane pump gas. The end results were not worth arguing over. The polished head ran 1.3 degrees cooler than the Chrome Coated Head head, In my book a sacrifice well worth making for the upgraded appearance. When it came time to get a head for my Banshee, I liked the way the Powder Coated Trinity's Turbo Mod looked and performed. His Banshee felt alot stronger throughout the entire power band, but I didn't want to buy a stock head for $15-$20 off eBay, send it to Trinity's for the Turbo Mod and Machine work which cost $179.99 (free shipping), plus $25.00 () $3.95 Shipping) for a new copper head gasket, plus $50.00 for the strip did and Chrome Powder Coating job, and $15.00 ()$5.00 shipping) for the Stainless Steel nuts from Alloy Boltz. for a total of $298.94. The other guy with the polished OEM Head had a total $208.93 total in his set up; and I felt that The Trinity's Stage IV Polished Cool Head, 21cc Domes, O rings and acorn nuts for $300.00 shipped was the best Horse Power and Cooling Mod for the buck. I gained a ton of power by adding this head, in no way is a modded stock OEM head even close "IMO" The Seller "Parts Depot ATV" off eBay I bought my head did stick it to me in a couple of ways before it was all said and done. I feel when you pay $300 for a Cool Head it should come with domes, O rings, studs, and everything else need to install the head short of the tools. After I bought the head the Seller told me I need the Trinity's Cool Head Studs and they would be an additional $45.00. This pissed me off; I said hell no, and bought a set of Pro-Design Cool Head studs for $35.00 off eBay. Both the Head and the studs arrived the same day . I removed the old head and studs and installed the new studs and head. After I got the head set in place I realized there was absolutely no way the Pro-Design studs would work they were way too long. I removed the studs and had the milled down at work, they still wouldn't work the acorn nuts had sleeves on the bottom and the bottomed out on the studs. I figured before I screwed up my custom built MX/Trail motor I would go ahead and purchase the correct Trinity's Head Studs. It want until I got them out of the package and looked at them that I noticed that they were exactly the same as the stock OEM Yamaha Studs that were used on the stock head! So that being said The Trinity's Stage IV Cool Head used the Stock OEM Yamaha Head Studs, a chrome or powder coated finish make virtually no difference in the amount of heat the head disperses, and in my own opinion there is no comparison between a modded Stock Head a a good Quality Cool Head. I hope this information helps out any HQers who are considering modding, polishing, or building there Stock Head, or thinking about upgrading to a after market cool head. Thanks, Jim