banshee#14

The bike has pro circuit pipes with knn pods and 25 pilot jets, I went to the Yamaha dealer to get 27.5 jets and the guys there told me that I should be fine with a 25 pilot as long as the bikes idles good and the plugs look good. So I left them in, too small then huh?

Within 30 seconds its still cold, if I leave it idleing for a few minutes then yes it gets warm to the touch and it doesn't get real hot until I ride it for a few minutes

Ouch! Well it sounds like its normal then thanks!

I don't know of this is the right place to post but how long does it take for the main chrome pipe to get hot? I have pc pipes on my banshee and as soon as I turn it on my pipes get pretty hot and I'm wondering if it's over heating or it's normal. Do the pipes get hot pretty fast? The bike runs good but I was just wondering about the exhaust

I'm all for DIY's and saving money. I needed new nets for my nerf bars so instead of buying some I ended up making them for less then $5. I bought 5 yards (80 cents a yard on clearance) of polyester strap at Hancock fabrics and had my mom sew the straps together. Super easy to do, just cut the strap in the length of the pieces you need and run a lighter on the ends when you cut it to melt the tip so the threads stay together, then just sew the strap pieces together, if you dont have a mother with a sewing machine lol you could just buy a needle and thread and hand sew it. You should be able to buy the strapping at any store that sells fabric by the year. Just wanted to pass along the info to anyone that needs new nets

Nevermind, all good now. I guess I just had a lot of air in the lines. I saw there bleeding for like an hour. Maybe next time I'll just buy a bleeder valve lol. Thanks guys

Okay so if I tore my outside dust boot a bit i should be good? I just rebuilt it with the kit and it still doesn't work. I have the cylinder off the bike and when I pump it with fluid in it no fluid comes out of the hole that the brake line connects too. Like its bit pumping right, I though maybe it was because I tore The outside boot?

Does the outside boot work to pump air too or is it just to block dirt and stuff from going into the cylinder? I made a small tear on it with a screw driver

The rubber boot on my front master cylinder went bad so I order a rebuild kit on eBay from 20 bucks. Anyone know how to go about rebuilding it? It seems pretty self explanatory but I just want to make sure there's nothing special to it so I don't tear the boot rebuilding it

Okay I'll get the 27.5 pilots too. So you guy think 300 and 27.5 should work for me or should I work my self down or up from the 300?

Which store put it in a can for you? How much per can? You looking to sell that pint of paint?

My thoughts exactly. My fenders are race cut as well so theyll be okay since they really don't flex. I'm gonna stop buy at oreillys after work tomorrow and see if we can get anything close. Hopefully once painted it doesn't look like a custom color. I just want them to look like OEM blue plastics. I'm thinking I'll be good with a pint? It's just the race cut front and rear fenders and the gas tank cover

Pretty sure it's not 290. The numbers are worn but it looks like 190. Can I get away with keeping my stock pilot and just changing my main jet? I've heard of people running 25 pilot with pro circuits. I also forgot to mention that I still have my TORS, I might remove then soon or it might be a while. Will that have anything to do with my jetting?

Heres a picture of the old pugs it was ran on. New plugs are in now.

Long story short, traded my raptor 660 for a banshee 4 years ago. Rode the banshee for a couple of months then put it away in storage for 3 years. Brought it back out a couple of weeks ago and started to get it ready to run again, and its been giving me issues only firing on 1 cylinder. Took the carbs apart to clean only to find out that the idiot that had the banshee never jetted the carbs. It has 190 mains and 25 pilots, not sure about the needle but im sure its stock too. Can anyone give me a baseline on where to start and how to go about it? Ive never done jetting before. The bike ran fine when I first got it so I dint suspect the jetting was off. Mods: procircuit pipes, k&n dual filter pods (no airbox) Elevation: 700' above sea Temp: San Antonio has crazy weather so anywhere from 60-100 bust mostly 80-95

I've done it before and I'll do it again. I've never had a problem with it. I just need to know how to go about finding the right blue

I'm trying to paint my plastics back to the OEM blue, I believe the code is DPBSE. They're already sanded and good to paint, I just never imagined it would be that hard to find a good color match. I've gone to Walmart, home depot, autozone, oreillys, pep boys, napa. And not a single one of them carries a blue that's close enough. The oem blue has a purple-ish tint to it. They have the paint on colorrite.com but I don't want to spend more then $90 just for 3 11oz spray paint cans. Has anyone ever painted plastics OEM blue that can give me any advice? Maybe getting automotive paint mixed to the right color?

Turns out I had my carb slides in backwards, I fixed them and it's a night and day difference, it actually stays on and idle now without giving it gas. The only thing is that my powerband isn't nice and smooth. Sometimes it's fast and the powerband feels good and then it bogs a bit and slows down. Are my carbs adjustments are off?

Kinda like my last post in my thread? http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=175188&page=2#entry1603581 I can't get my bike to idle what do ever it'll just die if I don't give it gas. And I can't give it nice smooth throttle, Ill give it a little gas and the revs wil go up real fast and jumpy not slow and smooth. I thought maybe my cars were out of sync or adjusted really bad. I remember my slides being on back wards with the lower part of the slide facing towards my filter pods and the higher angled side towards the pistons.

What would happened if those are on backwards?

The angled side goes pointing towards the air filter? As in away from the engine?

Yes bike was running perfect. I took the coil and boots off and cleaned them and both cylinders are running good now. The only thing it's doing now is its not staying on because the idle is really off, I can't give it gas smoothly the revs are really jumpy. Would the TORS adjustments make it so that it won't stay on?

Got both cylinders running now. Its something with my electrical system. Boots, wires, coil? I disconnect the plug boot from the bad side and fired up each cylinder individually with the good side boot and both cylinders started up good. I then tried starting each cylinder with the bad side boot and none of them would fire. So then I plugged both boots back in crossed (left on right and right on left) and tried again and now both cylinders are firing good. It just won't stay on by it self I have to give it a little gas because my carbs are out of sync a bit and not adjusted. I don't want I leave it like that, I want to find the issue and fix it so it doesn't come back again. Maybe one of my wires is torn or isnt making contact with the boot and since I crossed them and the wires got twisted its making contact again. Thoughts?

Just checked my compression and it's at 105 on both sides. Switched the plug boots and same thing. I then removed the choke tube that connects the carbs and tried again and it seems like that has something to do with it. With the tube removed the bad side pipe starts to warm up more and the pipe throws more smoke and pressure and then stopped working for a little. Like It's coming on and off. The air coming out I the bad side pipe coming out cold an I revv it a little and it starts to warm up but then gets bck to cold air again

Cleaned the pipe and reinstalled it and same thing again. Pipe got flooded with what I verified to be gas. Removed the spark plugs and the plug in the good side looks normal and the plug in the bad side looks brand new like I just put it in. So I came to the conclusion that the piston is not firing. But why is there still smoke coming out? The bad cylinder still moves up and down. Could it be that I'm not getting any spark so the gas isnt burning an just flowing to the pipes? Cracked piston? Low compression? Give me thoughts guys