DAL
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Posts posted by DAL
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OK...so I bumped up to a 27.5 pilot and a 290 main, but the bog off idle seems like it's gotten worse. As mentioned in the first post, if I turn the airscrew in it seems to help a bit. I'm new to jetting, but it seems odd if the low-rpm bogging was initially caused by running too lean, but got worse after I go up a size.
Am I still running too lean? Do I need to go up to a 30 pilot?
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thinking about buying a set of +2+1 full flights. I have works shocks right now on my stock arms. buy getting these arms i believe my shee will sit lower is this true? and if so i hear the yfz shocks will make me a little higher than stock? what would be the best bang for the buck on shocks to solve this problem? and what would be the right length i would want, i ride manly dunes and some mx in the high desert. any ideas shee owners?
I contacted FF about their mount positioning a few months back, and since the mount is 2" further away from the frame, yes - your banshee will likely sit lower. From what I understand, you can use stock length shocks even as far out as +3 +1. Unless you go to long travel a-arms, stock length will suffice.
No idea about the YFZ shocks.
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I run Pro Circuits and ride almost exclusively woods and MX. I noticed a big difference after replacing the stockers.
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I've been running Floats for about a year now, and I'm very happy with them. I ride about 80% trails/20% motocross, and I really like the ability to increase stiffness on the fly. Like Matt mentioned, I have noticed a difference in springrate going from cool morning to hot afternoon temperatures (or vice-versa), but it's an easy fix (add or remove air as needed).
I haven't run any aftermarket coilover shocks, so I can't really compare, though when I was researching which shocks to buy I couldn't find any other manufacturers that offered this much adjustability at that price point.
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does it get that hot from just sitting and idleing or are you riding it around? does the water pump seem to move water through the radiator? if you take the cap off COLD then start it does the fluid go wossh in there or just vibrate from teh motor running.. is the rad clean and not all bent up? they dont have a cooling fan so if its just sitting in the gerage idleing while yoru staring at the temp gage. its going to get hot.
it may also have a head gasket failure but usually you can tell if it does pretty quick...
if all else fails back the timing back off and see if it cools down if that the only thing you did you may have some compression issue's or you need to consider running straight 110.
on the jets you can just get mikuni OEM jets they are called short hex, any site sponsor that sells parts should be able to get you what you need or even any local shop worth a darn will have mikuni hex mains in stock the slows you might have to order. if you go to a shop adn say you want banshee main jets and they start typing in the computer ask them what they are dooing. if they are looking them up with the OEM yamaha parts locater slap them and ask for the parts unlimited ATV book, go to FUEL AIR section and look for the jets or use the back and look up mikuni jets.
Awesome - thanks for the tips. I'll start with the jetting, and work my way around if that doesn't solve the issue.
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a gas bike after a few runs was no way ever running 160 degree's. your probably freaking out over nothing gas motors will run up to 230degree's escpecially pump motors. you just have to let them cool off. making power has this trade off of making heat also sucks when that happens.
Could be. I understand power = heat, but she's running way too hot, way too quickly (whatever the original temp may have been). If I don't shut her down after less than 5 minutes, she'd run well over 230.
After searching around, I came across Vito's jets - are these good quality? Any other recommendations?
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Awesome. Do you guys suggest buying a full kit (includes mains/pilots), or just buying the parts individually?
Any brands you recommend for either? What's the difference between stage 1, 2, and 3 kits?
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Your running lean... go to a 27.5 pilot and bump up the main to a 320 and go from there
Appreciate it!
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With those mods at my elevation without porting you would be at 270-280 main and stock pilot.
Yeah, I guess I should have mentioned I'm at sea level.
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I just advanced my timing 4 degrees, and immediately noticed the engine was running quite a bit hotter. I picked up a radiator cap temp gauge, which shows I'm running in the high 180's/low 190's at idle, which quickly increases to the low 200's after a quick pass or two (2-3 minutes). I checked my impeller (looks great), drained the coolant and added engine ice, which helped a little bit (about 5 degrees). I never actually measured the engine temp prior to advancing the timing, but would guess I was running in the 160's.
I did a carb rebuild soon after buying the Banshee with stock settings, air screw two turns out. She idles fine, but now when I blip the throttle, there is definitely some bogging in the first 1/4 throttle. When I turned the airscrew 1/2 turn back in (clockwise), it got rid of the bog, but caused my idle temp to quickly hit 215 before I shut her off.
I would like to dial my carbs in before addressing additional cooling issues like a cool head and new impeller. I just need a starting point suggestion (mains, pilots, needle position, etc), and can tweak from there.
Here are my engine mods:
Bored .020 over
Pro Circuit pipes
Airbox lid w/holes and K&N filter
+4 timing
Premix 32:1
Thanks guys.
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Well, I have a friend that just got some shorty levers for his Ninja 600r and I loved em. I looked on ebay for Banshee levers and found a set that included the clutch and brake levers for 160 shipped. I know for street bikes you can find knock off brands for 40 shipped, so I was going to check with you guys to see if you have any recommendations? Levers are not something I am willing to spend 160 on, so if anyone knows where I can pick a set up for around 50 dollars let me know. Thanks!
They're definitely not cheap, but just like anything else, you get what you pay for.
They're worth every penny IMO.
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So did anyone else try it and ride like that for a while or what?
Post up.
I still like it.
This will be the next thing I do. Great idea!
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Smith Intake or fuel with the quick straps.
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I have the Fuel with Sol X lenses. I've ridden in everything from bright, glaring sun to overcast conditions, and visibility always remains perfect.
They also do a fantastic job of keeping out dust, and are very breathable (considering it reaches 110 degrees here in the summer).
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Thanks Matt - appreciate the clarification. I'll be in contact with you shortly.
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I'm building a "budget" (weekend warrior type stuff) MX Banshee, and when searching the threads found differing opinions regarding purchasing a YFZ450 rear shock and having it rebuilt to fit the Banshee (including MattSCESC's thread about shortening). Some people seem to think it's a good idea, while others suggest just having the stock Banshee shock rebuilt.
Can someone please clarify which is better? Since every penny can be used somewhere else for my build, if I don't have to spend the extra $80-$100 (or more) to purchase a used YFZ shock, just rebuilding the Banshee one seems much more budget-friendly, especially if I can get the same (or very close) performance.
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Oooohhhh, we have a winner! Thanks for the suggestions guys...
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...it probably is. Based on the price I'm a little scared to even test it out, but thought I'd ask.
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What would you rate the condition as?
Any cracks/welds?
How old is it?
Does it come with all necessary hardware to mount and ride?
$200 shipped?
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I had to buy an aftermarket to stop it.
It still swings out a tiny bit every now and then, but at least there's no more rattling.
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I prefer a 9 inch wheel. I have 10 wheels on my quad now with 20" Holeshot HDs and both rims are bent up to shit. I'll be going back to a 9" wheel when I replace these.
Awesome, thanks. Both front and rear?
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I've searched the forum, but can only locate proper tire sizes for MX. I know a lot depends on gearing, track conditions, etc., but can anyone recommend good all-around front/rear wheel sizes? I know tire size is important, but is wheel size equally important?
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Anyone know if you can use an existing ASV shorty lever with the Streamline perch?
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http://nashville.craigslist.org/rvs/1920584313.html Best setup you can buy for the money.
Holy crap, that's one HELL of a deal.
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Well, it is a little more complex then just getting the height and tires. Need to get a swaybar, and make sure the actual motor set up works for the track by using different sprockets to put it in the right rpm range needed.
Thanks. I fully understand if I want to become competitive in races I will need to do a lot more than just adjusting the height and changing the tires, but I'm just looking to take her out on the track a few times to see if it's something I'm even interested in pursuing.
Need help (starting point)
in Jetting & Exhaust Forum
Posted
I ran her for about 15 minutes this weekend, and bumping up the jetting appeared to have basically cured the overheating, it's just the low end bog that's persisting. I have three larger sized pilots on their way right now, which I'm fairly confident will cure the bogging. Will be sure to report back.