rockenshee
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Posts posted by rockenshee
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what are the benefits 2 the T.O.R.S delete?? is there really any gain on power/fuel efficiency?? or is it just the convenience of having more room around the motor and a little less weight??
removing the tors makes it a lot easyer to sync you carbs and tune it
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Why even ask about sand tires then?
because il like some sand tyres put dont whant to spend a lot of money smart ass
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skat track.
PERIOD..
if they are just too much money sand stars.
il stick to my razrs in the dunes its to much money to get sand tires for only 3 rides a year in the dunes
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I run a RK chain and will never put a different chain on it. I have the gold chain and it doesnt stretch at all. I had problems with chains stretching and they would stretch so much I couldnt tighten it anymore and I would still have 2" of free play. When I put the RK chain on all the problems went away. U got a good chain and I would thank whoever put it on there.
x2
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You have to start with a little slack in your cable so that the idle screw is the only thing affecting the RPMs while you sync the idle.
In other words if you backed out the idle screws completely the slides should bottom out.
Adjust the idle screws until you get the same reading on both carbs.
Once you have the carbs synced at idle; tie a string, tie wrap, rubber band, or the likes to keep the throttle about 1/4 open (3-5K rpms).
Adjust the carb top cable adjusters until you get the same readings on both carbs.
At this point you can remove the implement holding the throttle open and check the cable slack you should have a little free-play between where the throttle is at rest and where it begins to add fuel (about an 1/8").
Once this is done your carbs should be in sync.
Take it for a spin, if one side comes on before the other just lift the opposite side ever so slightly until they both fire in unison.
worked out it was the throttle cable so i removed the tors then instaled a tors elim kit and ear screws ges what both carbs are in sync
at idle and 1\4 throttle 
thanks for the info all of u 
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the black box is it the one next to the coil?
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Got a topend gasket set, Need to run by machine shop and see if they can mill head real quick for me. Haven't trying the timming plate yet, Any idea what way I need to notch out the holes?
drill the holes out to 10mm then turn the timing plate to the right then tighten the bolts put some lock tight on the threats
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Forgot to mention to check that your crossover tube and choke tube are in working order and intalled.
they are both on and in good condition
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Forgot to mention to check that your crossover tube and choke tube are in working order and intalled.
06 model tors on cable 4 years old
did work on carby last break tuned carby after i instaled pipes k&n filter in box and pro series reeds +4 timing did the reeds and +4 2 months ago and the rest of the mods 3 weeks ago after tuning for my mods i synced the carbs by eye slides lifted at the same time when i was tuning picked up that it was smoking more out of the left pipe bike ran as normal this week got the sync tool removed the air box and boots placed tool on back of left carby reading is higher than right carby left was 5 right was 3 that is when the slides go up at the same time
work i did to the cabys is changed mains to 260 pilot to 27.5 air screw 1.5 turns out needle clip to 2nd from the top
can the cable move out of the track in the tors or can the pilot be blocked alittle
when i sync the carbs with the tool smokes same on both pipes put slides dont lift up even
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i need a clutch kit. where is the best place to get it from and what kind. also would like to replace covers and shit that i have to take off- know where i can get nice stuff without spending a small fortune? thanks for your help- in advance
tusk hd
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Skat Trak Haulers
Mods please.
fmf pc2 +4 timing pro serie seeds k&n filter no snorkel
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if u need a winch u are not riding hard at all
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some help pls want to ride tomorow
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adjusted both carbs the same at 1/4 throttle then let it idle right carb was out ? when i open the throttle a bit and hold the sync tool on the carb the vacuim gose up a lot faster on the left carb then the right one
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when i sync at idel both readings are the same 2.5 on the sync tool its a vacium gauge but when i open the thotle a bit the left carb reads 6 and the right carb reads 3 do i have a air leak after my carbs or is it something els? help
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Ok I am moving this discussion over to the repairs section because the other one was full of drama.
The debate is over whether or not the a cool head is a good buy for the average joe.
My theory is that not everyone needs a cool head. That you can mill the stock head or have it rechambered and have close to or right at the same hp as a cool head. The downside of the stock head is that it does not cool as well as a cool head, however I believe the gains in cooling are relatively small and will, in reality not help your engine to have a substantially longer life.
In this dyno you can see there is about an 11 hp difference between the green line and the one below it.
The one below it is a Banshee with FMF fatties & K&N filters
The green line is FMF Fatties, K&N filters, v force 3 reeds, +4 timing key, Vitos Superstock pistons and a cool head with pump gas domes.
Now it is well known that the vitos superstock pistons will give you 5-6 hp. So that leaves 5 to 6 hp gain from the cool head, timing and reeds. I'm willing to bet that the cool heads gain was no more than 4 horsepower, which is perhaps one more than a stock milled head, if that.
http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=130851
You've also got to figure in the ability to change domes for relatively cheap. A used set of domes only cost around 50 bucks shipped. So you can have a pump gas setup and a race fuel setup, around 4 and 8 horsepower respectively (assuming 8 on the race fuel)
My alternative method is to cut the stock head .030", for around a 6hp gain, and requiring he use of a blend of race fuel and premium unleaded. If pump gas would be desired, a head gasket .010" thicker would give the extra head volume to allow pump gas to be run. This .020" milling is what is generally what is used to run premium unleaded.
I have heard of several people going .020" and .030" with no problems. Some say there may be issues with going .030", and this is the right place to discuss this.
Another option is to send your stock head off to be rechambered, which will give you the same gains as the cool head, for around 85 dollars. If I were going with a race fuel setup, or any kind of cub or 4mill build, this is what i'd recommend hands down.
I would like to keep this discussion civil.
milling .020" what hp increase will it ad running premium unleaded
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only ride in the dunes 3 times a year what do you recomend
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Tusk kits are under $50.. and would leave the extra money to do the other mods.. Just some food for thought.
x2
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FMF Fatty's with power Core 2 silencers would be a good bet.
x2 real good pipe cant the front wheels down go +4 timing , reeds , k&n filter jet it right it keeps me happy
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Thumb for me you turn the handelbars to mutch on the quad
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looked to me that going up one pilot ment that in going this i had to go down 2 main jet sizes is this tru
the pilot jet operates the fuel control from idle to 1/8 th throttle. after 1/8 th throttle the needle opens up the main jet allowing it to run more fuel. the pilot jet is ALWAYS fully open....so even at WOT the pilot jet is being used. its possible that you may have had to come down a main jet or two if you bumped it up in the pilot....but you'd have to have been running rich in order to have ti really cause a problem. its not too wierd but its not common to have to drop down after a jump up on the pilot
it was running a bit rich before going up on the pilot when i started jetting my bike i started with the mains first got it nerly spot on litle rich maby one to big on the main then
i played with the pilot to get 1/8 throttle spot on whent to 27.5 pilot and moved the needle clip up one its may be back to front put it sounds i did it right in the end
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1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? fatty pc2
2) What type of airfilter do you have? k&n
3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all? A
4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 1460
5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 1.5 turns out
6) What size main jets are you using? 260
7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 15C
8) Do you have a port job? no
9) What kind of carbs? stock
10) What size carbs? 26mm
11) +4 timing
12) pro series reeds
13) needel 2nd from top
i started with 290 mains and worked my way down to 260 mains this is my first time jetting my bike i whent frome 25 pilots to 27.5 pilots looked to me that going up one pilot ment that in going this i had to go down 2 main jet sizes is this tru
did plug chop on 260 mians and looked spot on to me 260 did i do my jetting right?
just whant to be spot on
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1) What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? fatty pc2
2) What type of airfilter do you have? k&n
3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all? A
4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com ) 1460
5) What size pilot jets are you using? 27.5 1.5 turns out
6) What size main jets are you using? 260
7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? 15C
8) Do you have a port job? no
9) What kind of carbs? stock
10) What size carbs? 26mm
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i mix 40:1 2R yamalube in 98 oct how long is it good for ones its mixed ?
duro dune blasters tires
in Sand Forum
Posted
got some skate trak edge tires will test them out in 5 days time thanks for the info