Jump to content

bigdogchevy98

Members
  • Posts

    38
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by bigdogchevy98

  1. I just purchased one from F.A.S.T. is there anyone running this timimg plate? I've heard nothing but good things about those guys and figured an adjustable timing plate was just as good as the next. Any feedback about this?

     

     

    I haven't bought the timing plate from F.A.S.T , but everything else i have bought from them has been top notch, and if you ask around on here, guys will tell you that they have great service and products, i actually haven't heard one bad thing about them! So i am sure that timing plate will be great!

  2. I am not in th 100 hp range, more the 75 hp but the best chain I have ever used is a D.I.D. They seem to last the longest and stetch the least. I also like the x-ring. I personally dont like the non o ring. I always forget to oil and they start to role hard. The x-ring needs virtually no maintenance.

     

     

    X2 D.I.D.'s are absolutely phenomenal!

  3. I would like to add that I perfer to use klotz. It has worked the best for me. That is what I was using when it welded but it was my fault. I had just taken it apart and did not squirt any oil in there along with I think I had a low oil level. :shootself:

     

    I have tried atf type F and had very bad clutch slip issues. BUT I don't know if it was the atf or bad pressure plates. When I replaced the plates and clutch I went back to the klotz and it was better. So I don't know which one was the issue. I don't mind paying the little bit extra. To me seems way to thin for the gear oil but there are a lot of guys that use it and sware by it. I just won't use it. I would rather use a wet clutch 10w30 engine oil like the manual says or 10w40 (sometimes it is all I can find).

     

    yea, i've used klotz before and i really like the stuff, seems to work great for me too, lately i have been using the honda high performance gear oil because i had some sitting on my shelves for the longest time, and that seems to work good as well. anyone do the pancake bearing after their ball welded? how tough of a job is it?

  4. Guys are running Type F and then they have to put a pancake bearing in it to prevent the clutch ball from welding to the pushrod. I have run Klotz Flex Drive 30 in my bikes for almost 20 years and have never lost a gear, bearing,shift fork, or clutch ball in a total of 7 bikes. It is expensive but I change it every 25-30 hours of riding, I do have an hourmeter on my bike.

     

     

    What happens if the clutch ball welds to the pushrod?

  5. There are lots of guys that run it the biggest issue is that you need to change it after every weekend if you run it. More of a pain in the ass then it is worth if you ask me.

     

    so what would be a good trans oil to run then if you want it to last longer? i was told to replace trans. oil after 10 hours of ride time, no matter what oil it is.

  6. I got mine from the swingarm shop on ebay. They are a bit heavier but they are half the price of everyone else. I do suggest the round style and get a new carrier. The +4 is $260 I think and I picked up a round carrier for around $100. If you decide to stay with the stock style carrier let me know if you need a new one. You can have mine just pay the shipping.

     

     

    alright thanks man, i have a an 83 k20 im working on and my bros 84 k10 right now, so i have to put the banshee on the back burner for a bit, the next time i'll be a silver will pry be memorial weekend, you gonna be up there then?

  7. stock axle carrier? chances are your bearings are shot..... this happened to blueangel on here too. It started making a HORRIBLE sound while we were riding real slow and when we got back we threw a milk-crate under the frame and started her up. Then we fired it up and put it in first gear and let the axle rotate around on its own......couldn't have missed it if you were blind. The axle was wobbling back and forth....

     

     

    yep, stock carrier, all the more reason to get a +4 swinger while i'm doing work to it, you guys know of anyone with a +4 swinger for sale? or about how much they are?

  8. What banshee were you on? I was there also on the black banshee with a red frame?

     

     

    no kidding man! i was watching you almost the whole day! i had the blue banshee with the white flames alba racing graphics, i wanted to race but by the time i saw you out there, i didn't want to hurt my shee anymore than what it already was!

  9. You think that's it or do you think I am burning it off too. I find it hard to believe I could be burning it in the cyl.

     

     

    correct me if i'm wrong, but if you were burning the coolant in your cylinders, wouldn't that make your spark plugs white? also, fyi, i know "Engine Ice" is a special coolant that supposedly lowers temps on engines up to 50 degrees. I've heard nothing but good things about Engine Ice, and it's only $20 for a gallon :dance:

  10. Hey guys i'm a newer to the website and absolutely love all this banshee info. on here! Wondering if someone could help me out. I went to Silver Lake opening weekend 4/2, and did some drag racing and duneing. After some riding, my banshee started wobbling really bad in the back, i checked it over and the two axle nuts came loose and i could spin them with my fingers, i tightened them up and made a pass on the drag strip and it was wobbling again, and the two nuts came loose again. Would this mean that my axle bearings are possibly shot?

  11. The clutch pressure plate and the clutch boss might not be lined up right, i know i lined them up right the first time i did everything, but when i put in the new shift shaft, easy spring and ecentric scew, i think i forgot to line them up again, that could be part of the problem, but not all of it, b/c when i had it lined up to begin with, it still wouldn't shift. The cases went together fine, i didn't have to hammer them together and the bolts sealed fine on them. I know for sure everything is right with the ecentric screw, like was said the old one had grooves in it, and i replaced it with a new one, and it is lined up with the correct gaps on the shift star, thanx for that by the way. I can't get the shift drum to move to any gear at all, i can watch it move a tad but thats it. I think my best bet is to split the cases again, and make sure that everything is right and go back through everything and make sure its all there and right, if anyone has any other tips, it would be greatly appreciated, and thanks guys for all your input already, i will keep you posted! thanx again!

×
×
  • Create New...