2 jugs are better than one

One of my stock exhaust chamber hangers broke “rubber split apart” so I welded some half inch key stock in its place..looks fine, question is should it be rubber though to allow slight movement between motor and frame?

It’s winter here I’m not going to run it any more. Building and tinkering season for me

Ok fellas, did a warm up cycle with new rings..running 50:1 dominator the way I got it running good was my air box has holes in it so I taped off 6 of them. No more weird high idle..it has a very! Slight hesitation off the jump. But it is a bit on the rich side and it’s only synced by eyes and ears haha..the bike is got power for days!! The powerband is hitting like a mad man. It was smoking white/blue for the first few min of the ride then it cleared up very little smoke. My next thing in the mail is a tto temp gauge and then next will be tors delete and resetting float hight again! It’s half the drip it was but it will be fixed Along with also getting a sync tool and doing that also. I have no idea what jets I have either but when I do tors delete and float hight I will find out.

It warmed up to 40* yesterday so I put fresh gas in it with amsoil dominator and I mixed it to 32:1 like the last owner said he did. But the bottle says to mix it 50:1..the bike did run but it acted lean but smokes constantly. Should I mix 50:1 or use a different oil that’s 32:1 mix instead? The smoke was white

Ok thank for all the help man💯

No it was smooth all around both cylinders and pistons. On another note my issue of fuel coming from the over flow that was not adjusted at all but I put new float valve/seal all in it and it’s doing the same thing still. Think it will fix itself this coming summer and flush out while riding our should I pull them dang carbs for the 3rd time 🤪.. also what about a inline fuel filter? And if so what microns would be good to keep any sand/crap out?

I got the picture to work now 👍 check it out above

Ok good to hear that’s what I was hoping to hear. I’m not gonna mess with anything tell spring now, I want warmer temps and if it runs good come that time I would like to do the tors delete bc that crap on top is a pain in the a$$ wow! as for pictures they look crappy when I resize them but the walls were spotless! The top of the pistons looked like coffee stain color and smooth 👌 also yes I did get my hands on flat o rings for both carb caps 👍 also screws were around 1.5 turns out prior to this all.

Yeah thankfully, I was nervous watching the timer haha..it would have held longer but it was to cold to hang out any longer to watch it..nothing else was changed other than all the fuel lines and run off hoses. I have no idea what jets are in it I forgot to look. Also I did not run it one time without the box back On it. Would 10-15* colder really make it run that lean? Sorry I’m kinda new to this..learning fast tho! 😁 also a good way to find an air leak if I could get it to stop ideling like it was trying to blow the top off is a little shot of starting fluid to see if rpms jump up quick right? Or is that kinda dangerous for the motor to suck that in even if it’s a quick shot?

My thoughts to but where from my leakdown held great. Carbs leaking maybe? So it starts first kick..idles for about 3-5 seconds then the Rpms start to climb fast..choke it and they come back down but it idles really rich. Let the choke back in and it idles, clears up and starts to climb again? I won’t start it again unless it’s 50 or above but what Bothers me most is the idle screw really didn’t help..maybe a tiny bit at most..just to cold for her right now I hope 😞

Ok so I I fixed my leak down tester and it held 7 psi for over 7 min. 🎉...while I was doing that I checked my float hight like south Texas banshee 21mm and put a new float valve and seat..still leaking out tho

It held air for about 1 min. I’ll have to wrap up my tester better and try it again. (Leaked around the tester on both sides) ☹️As for carbs I took them apart and cleared all jets everything else really good. I could see light threw main and pilot jet b4 I put it back together

I did make a leakdown tester and I sprayed all over as much as I could and didn’t see any air coming out except from around the tool I made and that was really slow. So yes I did reuse the reed gasket but it was stuck on perfect so I left it. There was no sealant in the other side so I didn’t do it this time either. My float is also maybe stuck? It’s leaking out the over flow idk if that is part of it to that’s also today’s new issue haha

Maybe it was about 10* colder tonight when I ran it 🤔

Ok quick update..couldn’t just leave it alone haha..went back out in the garage..air screw was turned out about 1 1/2 turns so u ran them all the way in and no change..synchronized both carbs by eye. This still has the tors also just unplugged

So I got new rings in the banshee now and I fired it up to do a heat cycle and it started to rev real high (lean?) so I shut it down in a panic and fired it back up with choke on and it kept the Rpms down. What’s odd is last time I ran the bike the air temp was the same 40* outside and it ran normal. What am I missing 🧐

Ok so I unscrewed the top of the carb to pull the slide out and found a gasket sealing one side but not the other side. So I looked it up in partzilla and it didn’t even show the gasket to seal under threaded cap. My question is do I need it or not 😕

Ok so I just bought a radiator cap that’s a 1.8 but it has a temp gauge and that’s the reason I bought it so I could keep an eye on coolant temps. My question is the stock cap is 1.1 now it will run hotter? Little confused should I cancel the order I didn’t notice it was a different pressure 🤪

Ok fellas so I tore the head off and pistons look good as do cylinder walls 🙌..what I did find on my “recently rebuilt top end” was when I took the top of the carbs off to get them out of the way for head removal the side with 118 compression didn’t have a gasket under the cap (but was tight) and the side with 100 compression had a loose carb cap and the gasket was half on only. My guess was it ran it a bit lean to make rings wear faster?

I have a lisle 20250 compression tester..throttle wide open and kicked it tell the compression stopped climbing..other spark plug was in on the other side.

Oh no it runs great I just decided to check the compression on it

Yes sir very correct..shee does start 1st/2nd kick tho. But I think I’m still gonna freshen it up just so I know it’s good to go..I got all winter! ..oven been checking it all over so it’s ready to roll 💯 come spring /summer

I was told it was rebuilt a while back and it’s just been sitting..he got me 😂..

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking also..any chance that would be a loose head bolt or something? I did check the 118 side at first and it wouldn’t keep psi for a little while 😕 then it held and gave me 118