clutch414

I will try to re-bleed the clutch, I talked to tech support and they said that I probably didnt have the piston fully extended when I bled it the first time. As far as the H.I.D. lights I hooked them up to the stock wiring harness to the lights following the wiring diagram provided. I hooked up the blue wire to the battery, two yellows to the two stator wires, the black to the battery and lights negitive, red to the positive of the lights. If you can provide me with a good diagram the would be huge. Thanks, Mike

I just purchased a streamline hydrolic clutch and after spending hours bleeding it to get it to engage, it seems that it doesnt have enough travel to fully engage the clutch. I have a heavy duty clutch kit installed and it was very stiff with the manual cable so that is why I just went with the hydrolic. Has anyone used one of these, if so do they work with the h.d. clutch kit. Any help would be appriciated. Thanks, Mike P.S. also have H.I.D. headlights that work great when the bike is running but when I shut the bikee off or when it idles one headlight drops out. I have a 10 amp hr. battery and a 200watt ricky stator stator. Floated the ground battery has a full charge, like i said when I am running it they work fine but the battery doesnt seem to do anything. could it be the dc rectifier? by the way they are smrc16 trail techs.

So I added some trail tech HIDs. the tiny battery that came with the kit didnt seem to be working so I went out and got a 12amp hr. battery. I thought I was clever, since I run pods I had an air filter box kickin around. after taking the sawsall to it, it fit the battery in it under the seat and seemed to be sturdy. after going out for a test ride it was getting a little dark so I went to put the lights on and they didnt work. When I got home realized that my custom battery and tray were left somewhere on the trail,(them woops can be nasty). Long story short does anyone have any suggestions on how to mount a battery under the seat that wont crack off on me. Any help would be greatly appericiated. Thanks, Mike

I just bought a trail tech HID 35w stock location kit. I have a ricky stator stock adjustable timing stator. I floated the ground and used their battery kit and DC converter with it. First of all I think that battery is a joke (looks like a remote control car battery). When I turned the lights on without the engine running only one light would lite up, shut off the switch and the other light would turn on. with the engine on the lights would not last much longer. If I put a battery bcharger on them they will stay lit for as long as its on. I put a bigger atv battery on it, went riding tonite, and yes it was about 10 degrees out, lights lasted about a half hour and then shut off. Now im thinking I need a heavy duty stator like a rs 200w. will this hepl to power both lights and charge the battery. any help would be great, just spent a shit load of money on lights that only work for a little while. I dont want to have to keep my battery on charge all the time, hoping the 200w stator does the trick. Thanks, Mike

thanks for the info guys

Looks like going with the yfz 450 front shocks is clearly the way to go for my set up and the money. I still dont know what to do for the rear. Does the yfz rear shock work as well? If not does some one have any suggestions on what to do for the rear. I dont race, but i do like to jump, hit the trails and ride hard and fast. Any help would be great Thanks, Mike

thanks alot that was a big help, gonna try dropping the needles down, right now they are set in the middle.

what is the purpose of the pilot jets. I dropped my mains to 155 from 160 seems to have more pop up top. I seem to be running to rich on the bottom though cause it seems like it has a hard time idling and when i am under half throttle it seems to be bogging down until i go to wot and it seems to burn off the extra fuel. would this be from my pilot jets being to big? Thanks, Mike

I have a HJR 4mil stroker .040 bore, t5s, Noss cool head, run 93 octane, I have a chariot performance intake with built in cross over. boyessen stage 2 reeds with billet spacer, Im running uni pod filters. I ride in mass at sea level. just upgraded from stock carbs with 330 mains and she ran like a rapped ape. Now I put on 33pwks and i had kevin herr set the carbs for me. I shouls have wrote down the jet sizes, my bad. Long story short it has a hard time idling which could be a simple adjustment just not sure what screws to turn. also it seems to hesitate ans sputter a bit when i hit the power band at wot and it seems like it doesnt rev out like it used to. if i let it idle it seems to want to foul plugs but when its wot it seems to want to sputter almost like its running out of fuel. couls it be from a stock petcock with this set up? Any input would be great, Thanks, Mike Kevin, if your out there please help, dont waant to screw up this beast of a motor you built me!

thanks for the info, Im looking for a white one if anyone has one. My plastics are cracked where they need to be cut so I could kill two birds with one stone.

thanks, do you have any pictures?

I am looking into getting an oversized gas tank for my shee. I get about 2 to 2 1/2 hrs of hard riding now but i just ordered 33pwks upgrading from stock. I ride with a bunch of four chokes and they dont even worry about fuel. (or speed) does anyone have any pictures of what they look like installed or opinions on if they are worth it. Or should I just turn myself into a bomb with a back pack full of pre-mix. any help would be great. Thanks, Mike

What type of aftermarket exhaust do you have? T5 with toomey silencers 2) What type of airfilter do you have? K&N 3) Are you a)running a stock airbox with lid stock airbox with NO lid c) Stock airbox with vents d) no airbox at all stock air box no lid 4) What is your elevation? (If you don't know, go here: http://www.topozone.com sea level 5) What size pilot jets are you using? stage 2 dynojet 6) What size main jets are you using? i think 280 stage 2 dynojet 7) What temperature is your Banshee jetted for? i run all year from 0 to 90 degrees 8) Do you have a port job? herr jugs agressive mx port job 9) What kind of carbs? stock 10) What size carbs? stock 11) chariot performance billet reed cage with boyeseen dual stage reeds 12) +4 advanced timing 13) noss cool head with 23mm domes 14) 4mill stroker kit from herr jugs 15) billet intake with built in crossover from chariot performance 0 hours on this motor, isnt even assembled yet just looking for a kit to jet me in the right range. any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Mike

Cool man thanks, thats them. Ordered my new ball joints today. I see they are pretty expensive, but are they any good? Anyways paid $150 for them + now $100 for joints guess i did ok?

I just bought these +2 a-arms on e-bay and can figure out what type of a-arms they are. The problem is that I need new ball joints and dont know where to begin. Also the spindles dont fit on the ball joints either. Is there a balljoint that will fit these with out having to ream the spindles. Any help would be greatly appriciated.

just tore apart my top end cause she locked up on me. This is not a problem since im already in the process of having my new engine ported and stroked 4mm by Herr jugs racing.(cant wait). this also is giving me time to widen her 4" and replace every bearing in my she. Big pain in the ass but well worth it. When I took apart the top end I noticed that the left side cylider front top of the piston was melted, almost through. Its an 04 and on the original pistons and rings so i def got my moneys worth. Just want to make sure that when I get my new engine that It doesnt do the same thing, Anything that may have caused this other than just normal failure?

Thanks for all the info, there is nothing worse than spending money on stuff that doesnt work. besides that extra 3.5 inches would make some of my trail ridin real tight

Does anyone haveany input on wheel spacers or extended rear hubs. im looking for a little more control, but also dont want to buy crap that will break when im deep in the woods.

thanks that would be great if i could get some info. Talked to kevin Herr sounds like the way to go only problem is tearing down my bike, shipping from east coast, ten day turn around, shipping back and reassemble. Dont know if i can go a month with out tearin it up.

Im new to this forum, brand new have had my 04 banshee for about a yearand have done some mild bolt on mods. I have Toomey T5's, dynojet stage 2 jetting, K&N filter with open air box. new stator with timing set @ +4. boost bottle, new rev box. ive pretty much topped out this thing several times and have found myself looking for another gear (that doesnt exist). Im ready to do a top end rebuild before the good weather gets here (eastern mass). from what ive seen so far, Vito's 421 kit w/4mm seems to be a great deal but im hearing that it would not be a good bike for the trails. Also need to find a good head to run w/ this set up. Will stock carbs properly jetted also work with this combo? Any help would be appreciated. P.S. I want to smoke my punk ass friend on his yzf 450 w mods too, right now we are dead nuts tied but he likes to run his mouth