jd250r

These still forsale?

Still forsale?

I have a stock length round housing swingarm, powdered silvervien, complete with bearing carrier. Was told its a Lonestar, the carrier has LS stamped on it but not sure on swingarm. It will probably need new front needle bearings and seals however. Great shape other than that. The powder coat is showing its age. Im looking for a nice set of beadlocks, either OMF's or Hipers plus some cash on my end or a engine that needs rebuilt. Or I will sell it outright. Let me know if you have anything. I have some pics I can via text message. Thanks.

What brand of seat cover is that? Looks just like what I have been looking for, for my bike.

Found a bolt and nut from a buddy. Thanks!

In need of a swingarm bolt and nut in good shape. Also looking for the needle bearings, dust caps and seals for the swingarm. Thanks!

Sorry for the double post. I think i got it. Didnt seen the arrows. Thanks Cam. By the way, this is Jesse that got that roller from you.

Ok Ive got a couple more questions. Im putting together the new clutch basket. The stock basket has a fiber washer between the cushions and basket. It has a hole and is torn so I chose not to use it on the new basket. Put the new basket on the bike, I have some play between the basket and gear, not side-to-side but up and down if that makes sense. Also noticed the inner hub sticks out past the bakset. I put all the fibers and plates in. Put the pancake and pressure plate in. There is large gap between the last fiber and pressure plate. Its been a couple weeks since I torn it apart and cant remember if that gap was there or not. Went to adjust the pancake. the screw is all the way in and still doesnt touch the ball. Ive never had a banshee clutch apart, so for me its a learn as you go process. I have a repair manuel and doubled checked everything with no luck. The gap between the pressure plate and fibers has me worried. Can some one tell me what I am doing wrong? I am about to pull my hair out! Thanks for any and all help!

Ok couple more questions. The stock basket has a fiber washer between the cushions and the basket, do I need to put that on the new basket? Mine is torn and has a hole in it. I assmbled the basket without it and am having issues again. Put the assemble basket on the engine and seems to have some play between the basket and the gear, not side to side but up and down if that make sence. Re-assmbled all the clutch. I replaced the plates and metals less than 4 rides ago. Now, I have a large gap between the last plate and the pressure plate. Cannt remember how is was when i took it all apart over 2 weeks ago. The innner clutch hub sticks out past the clutch basket. Is it suppose too? I have a cascade pancake, screw is all the way in and cant get anything to adjust. Seems like the screw isnt touching the ball. Can anyone tell me what I am doing wrong? I am about to pull my hair out! Thanks for any and all help!

Awesome, just what I needed to know! Thanks!

I got a Magnum Billet basket from F.A.S.T. and getting ready to assemble it. I have the washer and gear off the stock basket. Looking at the cushions, one side is square the other has a beveled edge. Which way does the bevel go or does it matter? Also read a couple post about using the stock backing plate? Should I use the oem one instead of the one that came with the basket? Thanks!

PM sent on YFZ450 front shocks

Brand new, never installed set of Roll/IMS footpegs for a z400/KFX400. Also have a set of frame gaurds for the same bike, brand new. Looking to get $80 shipped for both. Looking for a set of YFZ450 front shocks, stock 700 Raptor rear shock.

Ok. Im leaving for the dunes tomorrow and wont be back till the first of the week. Ill check back then.

Well I moved the needle clips up on notch and went and rode it. Ran really good. Turned around and headed back to the shop. Started going through the gears, then all of the sudden, NO clutch. So I babied it back to the shop. Was hoping the cable just broke. Nope, the push rod, ball bearing and stock pusher bearing all welded together. Got the the pusher bearing and ball bearing out, cant get the push rod out. Looks like I get to tear into the motor now. Sad thing is I bought a Cascade pancake bearing last week and was waiting to get the bike running correctly before I put it in. Guess I should have done that first. If it wasnt for bad luck, I swear Id have none at all. Thanks for the help guys. Anyone know a good way to get the clutch push rod out without having to open up the engine??

Worked on it pretty late last night and think I got it. I took the intake and reeds out, cleaned all surfaces, replaced gaskets, and resealed the intake. Played with the floats again. Went and rode it. Was able to get 5th pinned for a short distance and shut it off. Pulled the plugs and chopped them. Have a distinct tan line now at the base but both plugs have a larger dark brown almost black spot on them. Am I too rich now? I need to play with the needles now, not very crisp in the mid-range but low end and topend seems pretty close. Starts 2nd kick and idles great. Thanks for all the help guys!!

Yeah I laid the carbs over just to were the float touched the needle. My float valves dont have the metal wire piece that holds them to the float if that makes sense, they just sit in the port.

I dont have much room to get in over 4th pinned. Ive done it this way with my 250rs and have always had good luck.

Ok got the floats adjusted agian to 19.2mm and 19.1mm. Went and rode it a bit. Felt good, the flat spot is no longer there so I thought I might have gotten it. Put a set of new plugs in it and ran it again. 4th pinned for a ways and shut it off. Pulled the plugs and they are still very very very light tan, more of a whitish then tan.

Ok, checke float height with the needle seated and the float just touching the vavle pin. I was at 22.5mm give or take. I adjust both to 19mm. Now I have fuel running out the over flow tubes. . . . .

Did the carb cleaner trick, sprayed all around the intake, head and base gaskets and heard no noticable change in the idle. Boisebanshee mentioned he had trouble with a lean condition with this intake and carbs and found it to be the two small screws on the back side of the chariot intake. I took the intake off and apart. Resealed everything and the screws. Tried it agian, no change. Going to check the float height now, maybe im running the bowls dry? Im to the point where Im completely lost. Might throw the stockers back on and see how it runs, if it runs good, then i know its in the intake or carbs. Im ready to throw in the towel.

If he doesnt want the stabilizer, Im interested in it. Let me know if he backs out.

Just been doing some thinking and I could be completely wrong, but wouldnt an air leak some where cause it to be hard to start or have an irractic idle? Its starts right up an idles perfect. I have a Chariot billet intake with built-in cross-over. Would the leak be some where in that since both cylinders are lean and have an almost identical plug reading? Just trying to think of all the possiblities that it could be.

Im not riding it anymore till I get it figured out. Ill try the carb cleaner and check float height tomorrow and report back. Thanks guys! Trying to make it to the dunes this weekend and Im losing hope!

I think I am way to rich also but my plug keeps coming out very very light in color. Thats after i let it warm up, run it through the gears then hold 4th pinned for a ways then shut the engine off while pinned. I read just the leak down how-to. Ill try that tomorrw and see what happens. Illl check the float height now. This is driving me nuts, Im ready to put my stock carbs back on!