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VooDooBanshee

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Posts posted by VooDooBanshee

  4. front end alignment?

    in Suspension

    Posted · Edited by VooDooBanshee

    THe lean-in is good. Should be about 3 degrees on each side. They call that negative camber...It's good for turning corners. You should invest in an angle finder. They sell them at ACE and other home outlet stores. Put a 2X4 against the tire - touching the bottom and top of the tire, then put the angle finder on the 2X4. See what you got...

     

    Toe in/out is easy: - use a tape measure and measure from the middle of one tire to the other (has to be the same height on each tire). Then do the same in the rear...Both front and rear tires should be within 1/8th of an inch of each other...Adjust tie rods to get the correct measurement.

     

    The whole process will take 10 mins with the right tools. I got mine at ACE for 9$...Saves the guess work!!

  5. Shee boggin out, need help guys

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    There are screws on the bottom of the bowls. Unscrew them and see if fuel comes out of each one. You need to make sure you are getting proper air, fuel and spark. That's really all there is to the banshee. The CDI and coil seldom fail, however there are other issues like failed stator, sheered off woodruff key and loose fly wheel that can cause spark/starting issues. Is it backfiring at all?

  7. Shee boggin out, need help guys

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    to anyone who can help, this is my first banshee iv had it almost a full season now.......took it out yesterday first day this spring had a great day riding 2 hrs in it started to bog out when i gave it gas eventually it died, i let it sit thinking i flooded it. It started up 5 min later ran for a lil bit but kept dyin whenever i put it in gear to move, long story short i had to tow it back and im hopin to get this resolved so i can get back out there and rip thanks alot guys any comments or thoughts on the issue are appreciated

     

     

    What mods are on it? Need to know that first. Take the carbs off and clean them well. Use compressed air to clean the passages and jets. Use a good amount of carb cleaner in each. Do you have spark - good spark? Your looking at a spark, fuel or air issue, but you need to do some testing to see which one - then go from there...First take the plug out and plug it in to the boot/wire. Ground it on the head and see what kind of spark you are getting. You should see a fat blue spark on each. Take both plugs out at the same time to ease kicking it over by hand.

     

    Is your air cleaner clean? Compression good on each jug?

  11. What brand CDI

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Well, it turns out that it was not my cdi. Its my woodruf key on my crank. My flywheel nut came loose and threw my timing off so it wouldnt start. BUT when i took my cdi off to look at it, i did notice a large crack were the wires connect to it in the rubber. Regardless im going to get a new cdi and not a used one. So now my concern turns towards the woodruf key. Should i put locktight on the flywheel threads? Is there any other way to keep my key in the crank? Thanks for the advice.

     

     

    Same thing happend to me before. Use an impact (don't go too nuts) and use some red loctite on the nut. Make sure you tap that key into the key slot - don't just set it in.

  12. How much coolant is too much or not enough?

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    I have an ebay oversized radiator off of one of the Florida sellers that I saw mentioned on here once. My question is, I relocated the over flow tank to the front nose.

     

    Whenever I ride and stop for a while, i notice I cannot see any coolant in the radiator. WHen I start it up though it starts flowing fine and I can see it, when I shut it off it goes back down again. I drained the over flow tank and filled the radiator back up again and it seems to push a certain amount in the tank and then stops. It always gets down to the level to where I can't see it but once I start it I can. Is this normal? I done a bit of searching and could not find a topic about this

     

     

    I think you are fine. The overflow bottle is really not an "overflow" bottle. It's a collector. Most people, including myslef just pitch it... I suspect that your coolant is getting hot (as it should) and spitting out the excess into the bottle...Not sure what radiator you have, but it sounds OK to me. Is it one of those China ones?

  17. +2 LSR A-Arm Question

    in Suspension

    Posted

    You should be able to adjust the caster on those arms. The ones i had, had heims on the upper arm where it attached to the frame.

    You want a positive caster. This means when looking at the spindle from the side, the top ball joint will be rearward of the lower. This will give you stability at high speeds. The opposite will cause the front wheels to "dart."

    What i did was turn the rear heim on the upper arm all the way and screw the front heim out 3~4 tturns.

    Hope this makes sense. :cheers:

     

     

    Sorry, yes I meant Camber....The last question is the shocks. Do you have to adjust preload on the shocks when they are new? Thanks guys! :cheers:

  19. any advice

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    I have just got my first banshee its an 01 all stock what would be the best gas oil ratio to use

     

     

    I would run 40:1 with a Klotz oil. Either a R50 or supertechiplate with castor is a good start... If you want to run Yamalube, then run it at 32:1...Just get a ratiorite cup and make sure you are mixing right...You will get a million opinions on this one! :cheers:

  20. +2 LSR A-Arm Question

    in Suspension

    Posted

    So I installed a set of +2 Loanstar SPORT a-arms, elka STAGE 1 shocks and braided lines tonight. I have a few questions and was wondering if anyone could set my mind at ease...

     

    1. When installing the arms and I torqued them to the factory spec - or close to it the arms seemed stiff moving them up and down before the shock was mounted. Is this normal?

     

    2. How do you adjust caster once the ball joints are mounted? There is a nut on the back of the balljoint thread, but how does that do anything?

     

    2. I have to adjust pre-load on the new Elka's to adjust ride height? The front end looked lowered...

     

    3. How far should the top cap of the shock be turned down?

     

    I am a noob with suspension, so I appreciate the help! :notworthy:

  21. Need some advise! Please help!

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    Chances are the flywheel is still good. As said before you probably didnt tighten the flywheel down enough, that nut calls for 62ftlbs. What most guys do is just tighten with an impact gun and I use blue loctite not red. The reason I use blue loctite over red is that red you almost always have to heat it up to loosen it, which could damage the flywheel or stator if it gets hot enough IMO. The valve lapping compound is a great idea or use emory cloth. And yes clean up shaft and inside of flywheel where it slides on the shaft before assembly. If the broken key didnt score nothing up just bolt it back together and go.

     

     

    Excellent, thank you! :cheers:

  22. Need some advise! Please help!

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    If it were mine, I would get another flywheel that's not all tore up, and then use valve lapping compound to lap in the taper on the crank. The fit of the taper is crucial to insuring that the flywheel doesn't come off. This thread explains it.

     

    http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=122256

     

    As for the stator, if the wires aren't trashed, I would set the pickup gap, and run it. If it doesn't run or doesn't run lights, then buy another stator.

     

     

    OK, so I assume that you do this before putting on the key, correct?

     

    Thx

  23. shee wont start

    in Banshee Repairs and Mods

    Posted

    So I had to replace the idle screw do to loosing it and now bigger probs. She starts after priming the carbs but wont idle and sounds like s!@#. Back fires and sputters.

    while replaceing the idle screw i had the slides out. Also shees getting gas to the carbs and spark. thanks for the help

     

    If it's backfiring, back sure to look at the flywheel and woodruff key. Backfiring is often a timing issue - had the same problem. Did you switch the slides by mistake? Are they in backwards? Make sure the beveled edge of the slide is facing the airbox. Did you reconnect the choke tube? (the black hose connecting the carbs)? Maybe the carbs need a good cleaning as well...

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