CrazyBRONCOguy
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Posts posted by CrazyBRONCOguy
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when I said 3-4 I meant the spray cans...
That website does also sell the spray cans but they do have it thinned also
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Agree with the above exactly.
I have three to four cans on my plastic. 1 Whole can on the bottom of the rear fenders, I went lighter on stuff around tank on inside.
I also would say more coats the better, the youtube videos of it coming off in a sheet most likely have around 6-10 coats at least anything less then that and it wont do it.
https://www.dipyourcar.com/home.php this website has a lot of good info on how to do it correctly, also they sell every color you can get the stuff in.
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I also have done it and it does seem to be pelling on mine as well. I did it to a new set of fullbores as I could not find black.
It only peels where I have hit it though. Also fuel will take it off.
I have been getting ready to re-do mine. The ruffer side of my fullbores where the tires throw stuff has been holding up great, it has not peeled off there.
I think if you scuffed the plastic before you put it on you would be good. I have it on some of my truck and it has held up fine where I prepped it.
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I still have these paddles. $150 obo
would also trade for a set of sand fronts from about any manufacture but they need to be on 4x144 rims or loose.
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That'll work depending on timing, I will most likely be checking it out sooner then that... Especialy if I can go to one of thier classes that their website says they offer.
I'm just south of Indy so its a little closer for me, 2 1/2 hours.
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I'd be willing to go check it out, My banshee maybe a bit too much for there but I'd give it a try. I can also bring my ds450 and have fun on that
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150 OBO Need em gone soon
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For sale $200 OBO shipped. In good used shape, hold air and rims are nice and straight.
none of the paddles are coming of the tire, there is also no chunks missing or anything. Were ran at Silver Lake
Will trade for 20x10x10 7 or 8 paddle haulers on Honda pattern wheels, or a similair sized razr or holeshot.
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I have ran both and prefer the straight paddles as well. I do agree it may depend on where you ride too and how much curvey vs open you do. I also run sandstar fronts now with haulers in the rear, Not sure if just a knobbie would turn the same or not.
I never felt like the sandstars hooked up that great when I had them on the banshee. I had mudbusters (the ones with the V) before that turned backwards in the sand and the sandstars where only slightly better. I also ran them on a 250r for awhile and they were better on that, but I siwtched to kings' turbo paddles (molded straight) and they hook up much better. The 250r has knobbies on the front but it handles good enough that the loss of turning is minimal with the straight paddles
I have never tried the Skat Trak Edges, I would think they would be better then the sand stars
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They do make banshee plastic that resembles a raptor. I have never seen the yfz450 ones.
A lot of people do not like the look of them
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Kevin at herr jugs said in his opinion it was eithier a crank that became untrue or the oil ratio was off in the fuel. I have ran the same fuel in other machines with no issues.
Anyways thanks for all the input, gives me some ideas of things to look out for and I also plan on building a back up engine with the pistons and jugs from the pics.
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The previous engine I was just not happy with the performance, so I had it ported more aggresively. Not builders fault at all I didnt know exactly what I wanted.
Your saying that the dome and piston damage is from detonation instead of the rod having enough slop to let the piston hit the dome?
Cannot say on the pre-oiled, I dropped the banshee off and picked it back up from the person who built it. Upon me taking it apart I did see that the snap ring and washer came off the Idler gear, to one goes between the kickstart and clutch basket. while that's not good Im dont think its completely related to what happened.
I did not do a leak down test on this engine as per above, it was suppose to be ready to go.
The whole engine should be at Herr Jugs this week sometime getting a port job and rebuild, but I have another engine I want to put togethor as a spare.
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32:1 I was using Golden Spectro at the time. I will be using amsoil dominator in the future.
these pics may help too
Im just really wanting to make sure I dont have this failure again
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Recently had the clutch side lower rod bearing sieze on me and was wondering what you all thought of what may have happened?
It was a hotrods crank. the engine is on its way to Herr Jugs to get rebuilt and new jugs ported.
I had 30 minutes on the engine maybe, though the crank is approximately 4 years old. It was not trued and welded.
I've read that marks on the intake side may mean that there was not enough oil, do those look like that may have happened? The other side looks fine. It had enough compression at one point to make the electrode come out of the plug. I have never seen that happen before. Another thought I had was the side had a bad plug in it that was leaking and made it run lean?
Another thing that may help is this engine has had the rod let go on that side at one point, before I bought it. hence the non-stock crank.
thanks for any input
-CrazyBRONCOguy
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Which way does it go? Is the flat side or the side with the counter sink suppose to go towards the carb slide. I'm talking about the smaller brass peice that goes into the carb before the main jet.
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When I have been up there, they have done both. Even though both my quads have the usfa stamps on the spark arrestor or silencer. I have also been noise checked on numerous occasions.
You can also shove steel wool in the pipe, it makes it not as loud and passes their check. I have only ever heard of this, have not done it myself.
I have also seen them check quads in the back of trucks for the spark arrestors but have not seen them noise check them.
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I agree on that, I did some measureing with mine and the 450 shocks won't work with the link in place. However that link does not look too horrible to modify to make it work.
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I think they will be fine, I will let you know. Im not a hard core mx rider or anything but might be better then nothing to compare too. I plan to ride mine on the track here in the next couple of weeks
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That 11 was resting sag as you called it. I measured it with the wieght of just the bike on it, I have not gotten a full hiegth extension measurement yet.
I will try and get that other measurement this week sometime.
In other words it looks like its only .5" differance from stock, which could be just in the way the preload is set on the Elka shocks I am using right now.
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id be interested in seeing your setup with them too.
As a heads up the directions dont say it but I had to put the bolt and nut on the shock mount and shock before putting the adapter piece in, of course this is only if you use the stock length shocks. Also I had to turn the flange on the bolts down to go into the tube, not a big deal.
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I got 11" even to the center of the lower a-arm bolt, the one furthest foward.
I've got it set a little low as I like it like that on the track, also for referance i have 21" front tires.
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I have both
http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=151890&st=30 pics on page two i believe
Just got the Alba's put on. they are beefier for sure. I have the fullflights and I upgraded to their black hiems. I've not had any issues with the fullflights.
Mine are still in good shape if you wanted a used set, mine need paint. I also have a set of 2" wheel extension from fullflight to make the rear match the front.
But back on topic, the alba's are nicer beefier arm then the fullflights. I like the camber setup too as its easier, not the fullflights where hard just took awhile to get. Also the tie rods that come with that alba are twice as thick as what they are with the fullflights.
22x11x10 10 Paddle Haulers on Blue Labels
in For Sale - Tires
Posted
No longer for sale, Too much to ship these