stoopidfast

The intake bot was never bonded to the metal. The boot was mounted by a bolt on each side of the rubber boot. With the weight of the carb and filter it ended up pulling the top of the boot away from the metal causing the leak. As jayzx10r mentioned, I am gonna have to ditch that shitty manifold and go for the UPP intake boots. Next question then, should I get with or without the crossover tube ports. I am not sure if the crossover tube is required? Thanks.

My mistake. I did not use RTV. I used Permatex 85420 and it is fuel resistant.

Sealant was applied to the key. The slow leak is coming from the top right side of the billet intake manifold. the weight of the carb and air filter has pulled the rubber away from the metal just enough to brake the seal. I put some RTV silicone on the surface and let set over night.

Unfortunately I don't know everything and I do believe in stupid questions get stupid answers, so thanks for pointing me in the correct direction. You were correct on the key way, but you already knew that. I only have to be told things once so I will remember this in the future. I now just have a very slow leak to find. Thanks.

Silly question... Does the primary gear and key have to be installed? I would assume so since you asked about the key way. I will try that and let you know. thanks.

So, it was time to repair my shifting problem. After repairing that issue and reassembly of the motor I tried doing a leak down test and the air is coming out the R/S crank seal as quick as it is being applied to the intake port. I have double checked and the seal is installed correctly and I can not figure out why it is leaking? I have looked through my Clymer manual and looked on line at parts diagrams to see if I am missing something and cannot see what it is??? Any help, suggestions or guidance would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Out for a ride this weekend and everything was going well until I had to put all my weight to shift to 3rd and even then it would work very intermittently. I got best results when I reached down with my hand and pulled up to third. Have not taken apart yet, is there anything that I should look for or has anyone had this issue before? Modded shift star worn, bent fork...not sure what it could be or what to look for. Shifting was a breeze for 1-2 and 4-6. Thanks.

My mistake, it was 180*F. Now that I stand corrected that is a normal coolant temp. Thanks.

I got to take it out Friday. The Banshee ran good overall. I had very little bottom end, but in the high end it pulled. it must be the port that I have that makes it want to run hard and fast at high RPM. Does that sound right? I was in deep soft sand, so I had to run high rpm. To me it seemed like the coolant was a lttle on the warm side, it did not take long to get 180 degrees celcius, with running high rpm and quick passes there was not much for air flow. Is there an ideal coolant temp, should I have been worried at 180? Thanks.

I just did a compression test with a Mac tester and I got 180psi in both holes. I need to run the race fuel. I am about to try a test run with 48 pilot jets, since the 68's are far too big. Does the timing need to be advanced? Everyone says they should be +4 out of the show room. Should I be stock, +4 or even more? Thanks.

All, thanks for all your input. I now have in my possession a Mac Tools compression tester. I will see if the Canadian Tire tester is faulty. Because since the day I built this motor using this tester I have been disappointed with the compression. When I had the cylinders ported I wanted high compression and wanted to rub race fuel. I am going to do the compression test this afternoon. I will post the results. Thanks again to everyone who had useful input!

I will have to check the squish. The engine can't be worn out, over the last 7 or / years I might have 30 hours on it. Work isn't so busy this summer, I will defiantely put more time on it. I don't know how to tell port timing? I may have to try a better quality compression tester instead of the Canadian Tire one. Something isn't right, you are right. Kevin from HJR (the man who did the porting) said to keep everything the same as in jets and set the timing at 0 and use straight VP110, . I was using 50/50 and getting a ping and near the end of the ride the left plug came right out and the right plug was finger tight. But, that whole ride it pulled and went like a raped ape... Last night it was just raped. I will do some more testing this afternoon. Thanks again.

Thanks.

I kick the shit out of it WOT until the needle stops moving. Might be a defective comprssion tester. The reason I am running 110 is because i am running 18CC domes. Wouldn't better fuel make it run better no matter what the compression is? Last night I changed the pilots from 68 to 48. I am going to piss off my neighbors this afetrnoon...again and see where I am at now. I may have to adavance mytiming agian. Thanks.

2000 Banshee With an HJR agressive race /play port, with +4 timing, 35mm carbs with billet manifold and155 mains, 68 pilots and the needle in the middle groove, I have Shearer exhaust Both cylinders have 140psi and I am 2165' with 20 C riding weather. After I did some repairs and changes to my Banshee because the spark plugs were coming It is real sluggish and wouldn't hit the power band, that was with timing back to 0, 160 mains and 68 pilots and VP110 race fuel. I then switched the mains back to 150 and it was still sluggish, but I hit the power band and it didn't hit as hard as it should. Shoild I go to 48 pilots or should I advance the timing? I don't want the ping to come back or for my spark plugs to come out at high speeds, that can only happen so many times... Any suggestions or direction would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Thank you. I will consider it a go!

Is it possibly the crank seals? I did not take the covers off to check those.

I did my leak down test. I pressured up to 6psi and I lost 1/2 lb over 3 minutes. Is this acceptable or normal? I sprayed very soapy water all over the top end and there were no leaks that I could find. Is there anywhere else I should look? Thanks

Thanks!

When performing a compression test, it is always said to have WOT. My question is, since the carbs are off already, can I perform a compression test then? I am not sure if there is a particular reason to hold WOT or just because it takes extra time to remove the carbs or because you will get a more "real time" result holding WOT or could it cause damage?

What do you mean it's shitty domes? Is because of the size or material?

yes, the head was still tight. I took it off this weekend to see if there was any signs of oring damage or cylinder damage from the plugs coming out at high RPM. There was none. I also installed 160 mains and moved the needle to the second groove from the bottom.

I believe I got the domes from Kevin, they may have also come from F.A.S.T. The dome size I believe was a calculation of what kind of performance I wanted from my machine, based on elevation, port, fuel and timing. When I put my engine to gether I was getting 140psi, and by reading many other posts that should have let me run pumpo gas, so I was running premium. Plugs were backing out then and also when I am running a 50/50 between VP108 and premium. My next run will be 100% VP. As for the noise, there seemed to be quite abit of ping coming from the exhaust and no matter how I ran it there still seemed to a wet oil residue at the tips of the pipes. Thanks.

I see "squish" mentioned a lot. What exactly is that and how do I measure it?

I kicked until the needle stopped moving with WOT.