I_Ride

Got it going! Not sure what it was but quickshee suggested trying to crank it again with the carb connctor hose off and I did and nothing happened so I plugged it back up and it cranked right up. Kinda odd.... But to fix the leak I'm going to have to adjust the float and it should be good, thanks everyone....

Just finished a thorogh cleaning of the leaky carb and I turn the fuel on and I'm letting it sit to see if it leaks again. This time I connected all the hoses in the correct spots, unlike last time when I forgot to connect the small hose running between the 2 carbs but instead I connected a clear overflow hose at that point instead. Before I cleaned the leaky carb for the second time I tried to start the bike and it wouldn't start, then I found that I hadn't connected that small hose between the two carbs so I hooked it up and the bike still wouldn't start. Since that hose wasn't connected could something have gotten into the carbs and could be causing the bike not to start? Any input would be greatly appreciated! I'm ready to get this dang thing running! ******Also let me add that the bike was running after I cleaned the leaky carb except that it was reved a good bit higher than normal and after that is when I found that I hadn't hooked up the hose between the two carbs......

OK, this morning went out to the bike and checked a few things around the carbs. Looks like I had one of the small short clear hoses hooked up where the black hose that runs between the two carbs connects. So I corrected that I tried to start the bike and nothing. Now I'm hoping that I don't have to go back and clean both carbs out. If that hose was left off and the bike fired up for about 3 seconds, would that have sucked anything into my carbs to stop them up? I did check each plug and there were both wet with fuel after I tried kicking the bike........ WHAT NEXT? lol Seems like it's never ending, but I guess it's my fault......

I did play with the air screw, I took it out to clean it. I first screwed it in all the way and counted how many turns it was (2 turns in) so when I replaced it I screwed it in all the way the two turns out. The rubber cross back between the two carbs, yes. Did I have the throttle cable tentioned some accidentaly. I'm not sure if I did it was accidental and I don't know about it yet lol. I did not mess with the idle screw on top of the TORS. Not sure if it quite leaking or not. I just installed the carb and started it up real quick and it was reved up so I killed it then cut the fuel back off till the morning when I figure out what to do with the dang thing........ Thanks for the help man.

Well I finished cleaning the leaky carb and installed it back on the bike. Cranked right up first kick but it was reved pretty high, so I guess I f'd something up around the tor's and the top of the carb. I was very careful and I did not bend the needle or anything like that. What did I do wrong now!!!!!??????!!!!!

Ok thanks guys, looks like I'll go pull the carbs and and check them good.

Went out to play with the bike last night and I noticed that it was dripping fuel. I looked and it was coming out of the overflow tube that comes out of the bottom of the right carb. I find this odd because I haven't touched the carbs in a while and it has never leaked a drop. So I turned the fuel off until I found the problem. Is it a big deal? What could be stuck open? Also, does everyone leave their fuel on or turn it off when they are not riding? If you turn it off, why?

Yeah, I guess I could just go without a key, but I already ordered one...... Baker, I really appreciate the offer and I would have definately taken you up on it if I hadn't already bought one. Thanks anyways!

But then someone could just hop on my quad and haul a$$. I think it would be best to try and keep it, especially if I ever wanted to sell it.....

Finally tested the key switch and turns out that has been my problem all along. Can it be repaired? I would think that there is just some corrosion on it that is stopping it from making a complete circuit. How should I go about fixing it? Can't hurt it if I have to buy a new one anyways..............

Larry, Do you think there is any need to take the flywheel off? My father is saying that it shouldn't have to come off, and like you said just clean the entire flywheel then the pickup lugs is all he said that I should need to do. Paint it? With what, some sort of rustoleum or something? I have been cleaning the thing with WD-40, will that be safe? My father suggested just cleaning the flywheel up good and everywhere else as best I can then see if I get a good spark, if so then I'm good to go, if not then go and tackle the flywheel and get to the stator. Sound like a good idea?

Oh no, I don't think it is anywhere near as bad as that one is! Most of the stuff I could nearly blow off myself. I haven't touched it yet though but it was pretty much powder it seemed like. I'm looking for a flywheel puller, I know I have to get one for the banshee but is there any way to judge which ones are good and bad quality on e-bay? Or should they all be the same thing?

Have you got a stock stator?

Well, I have been trying to troubleshoot why my banshee doesn't want to spark. Most things tested good, bought a new coil, and nothing worked. So I decided to check the stator and flywheel out. After removing the flywheel cover it was obvious I had a corrosion problem and I am thinking that it is the cause of my problems. I guess I had some sort of leak in the seal and it just started to corrode and now it will not generate any electricity. Here are some pics. I am pretty excited that I finally found the problem but I am hoping that a good cleaning will be the solution to this mess. When something like this happens I wouldn't think that anything would be terminally damaged and should still work once it is cleaned well. So, how should go about cleaning this thing? What type of solvent should I use? WD40? Or is it to risky since there may be a fire risk? Some sort of electrical terminal cleaner? What should I do next?

sinister, It is a 2003, what would the years have to do with it? CDI, so I'm looking at about a $100 investment? Yeah, it would be nice if I could find someone who would let me try theirs. I will have to do some searching localy and see what I can come up with. Would the bad CDI cause only one spark plug to fire 1 out of 10 times and the other not fire at all? Basically what I am asking is would a bad CDI mean that I would have absolutely no spark or just very little spark?

You know, I have never gotten a reading from the spark plug boots. On my last coil which would spark everyone and a while I could never get a reading. On this new coil I could never get a reading before I ever installed it. To test them I am putting one lead on the (-) stud on the coil and the other inside one of the spark plug boots, I wiggle it around alot watching for the needle to just but never anything. My Ohm meter is on it's lowest setting also (10x). Today I will have to bypass the kill switch and the key, that is something I haven't done yet because I was getting a small spark with my old coil so I figured if it would get some spark then the connection much be good, but maybe it's not good enough. Thanks for the replies guys!

Well I recieved my new coil from Rickey Stator, before I installed it I tested it with my voltmeter and it didn't read any different than my old stator did which seemed a little odd. (with the old stator, I would get a spark every once and while, maybe 1 out of 10 kicks so I figured it was weak spark and bought a new coil). With the new coil installed, I try to start the bike, 30 kicks and nothing. So I remove the spark plug and check for spark, none at all. So I immediatly think to myself, wow just wasted money on a new coil, great. So then I do some reading in my Clymers manual and some other electrical information that I had printed out from the net to come up with something else to test. So I test the pickup coil. I checked between the red and white wire and the green and white wire and I read about 120 Ohms, so I figured this was good. Then I read that I might should check the gap between the pickup coil and the flywheel tabs. But inorder to do that I have to remove the flywheel and get access to the stator. Problem is I don't have a flywheel puller tool so I thought I would ask on here if I should invest in one or not? The problem I was having in the beginning was that I was not getting a good spark (or so I think). because when I would test for spark it would only spark about 1 out of 10 kicks on the right plug and wouldn't spark at all on the left plug. Since that was the problem, I haven't yet tested the kill switch or the key switch. Should I check them or are they definately not my problem? I am guessing that my only other problems would have to be either my stator or my CDI?????? Thanks for all the help guys!

Ok, sounds like I'll try just some new caps. Would your average auto parts store carry the caps? (not sure if they are common or not) Then once I buy new caps if they don't work I would just buy a new coil. The coil was tested with the caps on. I have already removed one of the caps but I didn't test it with the cap off. I guess I will. But what If I take one of the caps off, can I put it back and on and the coil should still work just as well? I couldn't figure out how to get the darn wires off. I broke the plastic clip into about 6 pieces when I was trying to remove the wires. Now that it's off I still can get the darn wires out! I guess you just pull like mad on them? Also, the guy at the shop said that they are made in one piece and the wire may not be removable?

I took my coil to a shop where they work on banshees alot and had them look at my coil real quick to check and make sure that they tested it faulty also. Turns out it is a bad coil.... So now I'm on the hunt for a good cheap coil. Right now I'm looking on E-bay and I see alot of used coils that claim to be in good working condition for around $45 shipped. The used ones have the plug caps on them too. Then I see a new one for $46 but without the plug caps. Can I buy the new one and put my old plug caps on there? I think this would be the better investment. Is there anyway I can be sure that my caps are still working correctly and will work on the new coil? The problem with my old coil is that the spark is to weak. I do have some spark but it rare and it is weak. So this makes me think that my plug caps are still fine. Can anyone comfirm this? Thanks guys.....

I don't want to get very far off subject because there are still a few questions I need answered in the 4-5 post prior to this one, but can I just unplug it and forget it or do I have to buy a TORS elimination kit? If I can get by without the kit, why not? If I do buy the kit do I need the complete idle kit? If it is mandatory that I drill and tap the screw then I need to buy it because I do not have those specific tools on hand already. Thanks for all your help everyone.

Bump..... Still not sure about the coil. I did by a Clymers Manual and maybe that will help me out, still looking for some input though.

Since I'm not sure what to do about the stator, I started playing with the coil a bit more. I read up on it and decided to diconnect the plug wires from the coil. Well, that little clip that holds both of the wires to the coil is broken into 4 pieces and I still can't get the F'ing wires out of the coil. I think it might be time to just buy a new coil..............

TNT, Ok, electrical problem good. Check my stator to make sure it is tight and in the right position? I'm not sure how to do this... I am guessing remove the stator cover and remove the flywheel? Then check that the stator is tight and not loose? Then the pickup coil. Is it the small black box mounted to the stator plate? Back to the coil..... I removed the coil once I couldn't get a ohms reading from the plug wire ends to the (-) terminal on the coil. From what I was reading I was told to remove the spark plug cap and test directly to the wire. Well I couldn't figure out how to remove the spark plug cap so I ended up pulling it apart which pulled the screw out of the hose that goes from the spark plug cap to the coil. I can't see but a few small wires and I tried to test them without any results and I stopped there figuring that I broke the cable and decided to wait until I asked for further assistance on here. What's next for the coil?

Ok guys, just did a compression check. Both cylinders read about 115 which from what I have read is fine, correct?

Ok, I have a some photos of the sparkplug for you. It seems to be pretty black. I have cleaned this one multiple times and usually after I do shee fires up pretty good. I have a new set of plugs in now that have never been ran, I have been trying everything on the new ones. I got my girlfreind out to kcik the bike while I was watching for spark. On the right plug I would get a spark maybe once every ten kicks. Tried the left plug and I wasn't able to get any spark from it. I then took the ignition coil off and tested it with an Ohmmeter*. I put on lead on the negative and tried the left plug wire, nothing (seemed logical since the left spark plug wasn't sparking). Tried the right plug wire and still nothing, even though it was sparking on the right plug. So I am not sure whats going on...... Pretty sure I'm testing it correctly. One lead on the negative and another on a spakr plug wire end? So I figured that could have been my problem and I didn't do a compression check even though I went out and bought a new compression gauge. (not sure why I didn't check it anyways) So whats the problem now? Ignition Coil?