makenzie71

awesome...put her back together and she won't start unless primed (have to squirt fuel into the intake tract or cylinders). Then she just runs long enough to burn the fuel off...so she's not getting fuel from the carbs. Also, lots of white smoke...which is to be expected since I just tore the thing down and put it back together but I just hate smoke. Oh and is there a reason why the two little connectors for the throttle bodies, on the wiring harness side, would have jumpers?

Got her apart, swapped the seals, cleaned the surfaces, squeezed out some high temp silicone sealant, squished it all back together. I'll have her wrapped up, aside waiting for a new clutch pack, tonight.

...came from a friction disc expanding a little beyond it's limits lol.

I said to hell with it...tried to tap and pull the thing but it wasn't budging. Took it to the dealer and had them break the fly and the clutch basket. They only charged me a quarter hour, though...it was supposed to be $50 because they have a 1/2 hour minimum fee (a reason I get a lot of business is I have no minimum...if I only work 5 minutes I charge for 5 minutes)...but the guy who did the work told them to only charge me a quarter since he was only there dealing with it 10 minutes or so...that was decent of him. $20 was a lot better than $50. Anyway...now I can get on with it and should have the thing back together later tonight. Oh and man was it interesting when I pulled the clutch cover off to find that half of the case about a quarter inch deep in aluminum chunks...

Holy crap how much oomph did you have to put into the puller to get the damn thing loose? I'm afraid I'm going to break the puller bolts...

I'm the local shop besides the dealer haha. I promised this motor to be done early next week...still have retuning and cleaning. I've been sick off my ass for the last week, though, so I'm trying to get her done as quickly as I can. If I have another banshee come in I'll be snagging the little puller.

Is there any other way to pull the flywheel? I don't have the puller, I can't get one for another week, and I'm not sure my guy is willing to front the $50 my local Yamaha joint wants to charge to pull it.

Well it's too late to try and replace the seals with the engine in the frame...I'd have to put the engine back in the frame first haha. I'll just fully separate the cases and make sure everything is clean and sealed properly. I'm a pretty lazy guy, but not in the way that I try to find shortcuts that compromise the end result. I'm always looking for the fastest way to get a job done CORRECTLY...I kind of take pride in the bikes that roll out of my shop. I don't want this one coming back in a few weeks because it's leaking puddles. Not disassembling the top end is a bonus, though...I hate taking something apart that's working fine.

So you're not even talking about fully separating the halves? I guess I could investigate that as a possibility but I would be concerned with gasket damage leading to leaks. I mean if that's an acceptable means to go about it then awesome, I'll do it, but this is a paid job so I wouldn't want it leaving my shop spilling oil. Thanks so much for the advice!

Lifting the crank out far enough to get the new seals in place isn't an issue?

Damn...most machines I mess with have threaded flywheels....all you have to do is run a bolt through them and they pop off.

It's not my quad and the owner just wants it fixed enough to sell...he's got a buyer waiting for it. Alright, well I'll be beating the thing apart tomorrow or sunday...wish me luck.

Well I got a Banshee in the shop that's drawing through one of the seals...I 'm about to split the cases and replace the culprits and am wondering if there's anything I need to keep an eye out for? I have a manual but manuals don't always tell you to keep your thumb on such and such spring or it will fly across the workshop never to be see again. Also, should this require any special tools? Thanks for any heads ups!