Overboost
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Posts posted by Overboost
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where you at?
how much for A arms and shocks?
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matching set of joe rocket pants and a nice jacket.
pants on ebay are $305, jacket is $395 flea bay
pants fit me perfect size 36, jacket is a 44 or large
jacket $200
pants $150
$300 set
they are heavy, full leather so shipping may get pricey but will do what I can if shipping is needed
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its not much but its what I have to work with, I go for the stock look to snipe unsuspecting victims that think its just a slow stock banshee
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oh yes, I am sorry, I forgot about the supporting mods and parts.
pipes are critical to any 4mil, you can go as simple as some pro circuits or do some OOF pipes and dunable overides
once you go 4mil, you cant look back. you can run stock carbs but you wont get the full potential from your build.
just like pipes and porting, you can have a 4 mil but without them supporting mods and parts, your efforts were futile and will probably hurt your build in the long run without them and go slower than stock
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shock covers, shock covers, SHOCK COVERS
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NEWGH.....
it takes about $2000 of work to make a 4mil "correct"
you dont just toss in a crank and call it a day, cases have to be trenched, port the case, port cyl, 4mil head, 4mil pistons
list goes on and on, but you can send it to a builder along with your credit card and first born and like magic, in a few weeks you will have a 4mil sitting on your doorstep
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no I haven't had a chance to sync them yet
yea, ya might want to start there, thats kinda like saying, my car wont go down the street, well have you started the engine? not yet but I was getting to that
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Yfz 450
EXACTLY what I was thinking.....
YFZ can out handle, out corner, out jump and out maneuver any banshee, and they ride nice
I use my banshee to kill guys at the dunes, straights and drags, YFZ is for everything else
you will get many mixed opinions but by the time you spend the money and upgrade a stock banshee for trails or woods to what you want, go buy a YFZ for about $2300, and spend good money on the banshee to destroy everyone in the dunes and drags.
or like the other guy said, put some pipes on it and be happy
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uhh, read post JUST above your?
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I may sell my PWK 33s
bought new, used one season, moving up to 35s and wont need them...
paid $340
will sell for $250
I have stockers also if thats what you really want
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have you tried turning on the key? kill switch in the "ON" position?
believe it or not, that has been the root of some ppls problems
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Just trying to hit all the bases. Do you plan on getting a leaner needle?
it has CEL needles in it now. I will take you up on the farm road offer, I have no place here in flushing to try it. and trips to st helen just to figure out its not right is getting to be a pain in the dick...
I am only trying it in my back yard, from front to rear is 250' so its not a "good" test
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Presume different plug caps with different coil? Have you tried a different cdi ? Do you have any other carbs to try? Are the slides sloppy in the carbs? Were the carbs off a snomo by chance?
totally diff coil, diff caps and wires
have not tried a CDI, these carbs I bought brand new, so I dont have another set laying around, slides not sloppy, hence they are brand new, about 50 hours on them. not sled carbs, say motorcycle racing use only on box.
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That's what I was thinking. I got 1800' of dirt road in front plus drives on the farm if you want to bring it to Ortonville. Bring all your jets and some new plugs. Probably couldn't help with a stator cause Larry's is round plug , but can use coil. PM if interested
on third coil, second flywheel. spark is good. nothing changed
I dropped needle to last clip, whole new animal. runs really good, just need to get it in a trail but it has no chugs just riding around like it did, slow into throttle now rips the ground out from under it when it used to just bog and have to catch up.
one out where I can run it WFO I will check mains but my main concern was it would not run idle to 1/2 throttle, WFO was always good
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just a general plug read (driving around, all conditions, pull plugs and check)
they are black and wet, so I am way too rich someplace
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Then I think you have other issues. Have you checked for an air leak? Are you sure your electrical system is up to par?
ran perfect before I did the 4mil
I only did a 4 mil cuz my piston broke in original motor and if I am going to rebuild it, I went with something better.
I been fighting with jetting since day one
anyone in the flint MI area that would like to try it out, see what they think? 4 heads are better than one.
dont need much room to ride, just a good area to launch and enough room to hit gear 2
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You should be either at 45 or 48 pilot and 160 or 162 main. Put the needle in the middle and air screw two turns out.
thats where I started and am right now, 45 pilot, 160 main and 2-1/2 turns out, and it wont run worth a squat. thats why I am so puzzled.
when I tune one circuit to run good, it dicks something else up on another circuit. I started at the bottom and made my way up, and the more I tune the worse it gets someplace else.
edit: I also had the motor done at fast so I dont belive there to be any air leaks, they test all that fun stuff, I just got it, put on carbs and installed it.
I dont believe it to be the build, its in the jetting someplace...just need to track it down. it always winds up being something stupid
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ok, first off, I did a search, and have not yet found what I need.
here is my dilemma.
first off, jetting WAS main=155
needle dropped 1 clip
pilot=45
carbs, pwk33
mods are in sig
it ran OK....slight bog off line, while revving, taking your time, it runs fine, only when you try to launch hard, second gear launch, give it up, will bog to the point it will stall....
pulled good in the mid and top was good, topped 76mph in dirt, stock gearing
when you ride around in trails, part throttle, it seems to chug, surge and have no power in the mid, have to downshift to get any power out then it rips just fine
what I did=
put needle mid clip, upped jets to 160 main, no change on pilot
what it did=
bogs bad off the line and lost alot of top end pull
mid throttle surge almost gone
if you let off clutch easy and ride around the parking lot, no issues, no surging, no bog nothing, but once you really get going does it fuck up
I have no happy medium on the mid and off idle, when I fix one, the other gets worse.
my air screws are also out 3-1/2 turns, so I know I need to drop the pilot but a 42 or a 40 with my mods? I think somethings not right, and the better I get the top and mid to run, it gets so bad on the bottom end its almost unridable?
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OK so I did a leak down test, found a small leak between the reed and cylinder. Sealed it up and still have the the same problem. I have cleaned the carbs about a dozen times now and can't find any more leaks. Help I'm leaving for the dunes next weekend and am running out of time. Here is a video... Thanks
a few things can cause that, I have had the exact same problem
first, sync carbs, that is 90% of the issues on that most of the time
if that dont work...
if you dont have stock carbs, try choking both carbs, mine does that NOW if I dont choke them both until it warms up.
my sled does it also, fires on 2 pipes and the third sat cold. turned out choke was not actuating on that carb.
choke is a fuel enrichment circuit, not an actual "choke" like a car. it adds gas until it warms up, not choke off air, in essence giving it more gas.
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this is an easy question,
borrow a friends YFZ and hand him his ass, that way you can save the money on the banshee shit
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where you located?
All right guys tell me what its worth. If I parted it out I figure it like this.
Basically new cub and pistons= $800
4 mill crank with tz on one side and max on the other $400
stock crank=100
untouched like new stk cylinders=$300
mint trinty stainless pipes=$300
34pjs=$200
noss head=$150
the rest of the bottem end $250???????? " the cases are mint not even chain damage"
Thats $2500 worth of motor at bargin basement prices im not saying I want to part it out just tring to figure out why im not getting any offers. This is a very nice bike and im willing to give somebody a steal on it. I have well over $5000 in it the motor is very strong its never been down the strip since the cub and crank were added. Any local guys are welcome to come look at it and try it out if serious about it I really want to keep the bike together so make me some offers u might be suprised at what I would take for it.
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It Says he is not going to part it out....why would you ask for a rear shock...buy the bike the shock comes with it. IF you really want parts wait t awhile, Then if he doesn.t sell it he may make a part out post, but this is not it.
I think you missed the humor in that........
why so serious...?
Reeds broken
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
I never see my reeds so I dont care how sick they look