killerbanshee

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How do I check it?? What should it be?

I usually leave my gas turned on all the time. Sometimes I turn it off, but I usually leave it on. There has been a couple of times when it felt like the carbs were loading up when it was cool and damp outside. Kind of like the throttle cable was trying to stick, but it wasn't. Sort of like it was dumping fuel when giving it gas and then having to catch up on the level in the bowl. This has only happened a couple of times though.

Air filter is new. What information do you need? I'm in Oklahoma. I haven't tore into it yet so I don't know what jets I'm running, but like I said before it ran fine with the current setup.

Okay so I'm new to Banshee tuning and need some help with my carbs. My Banshee is stuttering a little through the midrange. If I take it from off-idle in gear and hammer it it will kind of stutter a little through the midrange and then pull hard like it's supposed to on top. It does seem just a little boggy off-idle too. I'm wondering where to start with the carbs...should I just pull them first and clean them, or can I try to adjust the air screw or something. I think it's a rich condition because the plugs are too dark (bordering on black) and it smokes more than I'd like when I rev it. The compression is about 112 in both cylinders and the bike is stock except for pipes (FMF Fattys). It still idles good, but it is a little boggy when I blurp the throttle. The engine doesn't just take off like I think it should. I'm needing a little Banshee tuning education I guess. These carbs were jetted when the previous owner got the pipes and the bike ran great last year with this setup. I run premuim (93 I think) and mix at 32:1 like always. The bike is rideable like it is because the problem is not really that bad, but I don't like riding something that isn't running just right. If I do work on it, I don't want to have it down for very long. Anyway, thanks in advance for any help.

My banshee recenctly started running a little rough. It is stock except pipes and I have yet to do any engine work to it. It has ran great since I've had it, but I took it out this weekend and It started running a little rough. It seems a little boggy all around and stumbles a little through the mid range. It is great on top though. I changed the plugs before leaving and gapped at .030 like usual. I used the gas from my last trip which was 2-3 weeks old and it has been sitting in the shade in my shop. The plugs look like it is running rich all around and a little more rich on the right side. Here lately a couple times after starting it on a cold-wet morning it acts like the throttle is sticking but that is not the case. you can give it a little gas and then let off and when you press the throttle a little it goes right back to where it was. Kinda feels like something might be sticking a little in the carbs. It's not a sticking throttle though. I am thinking about tearing into the carbs, but like I said I haven't done that before. The only carburetors I've ever worked on have been on cars. Compression is 112-115 in both cylinders. Should I just clean the carbs or should I look at my jets and mixture screws too. The bike has been piped and jetted and it ran good before so I haven't changed anything on the carbs. It still has the tors on too.

I need uncut fronts in blue, but don't want to buy a whole set. Do you have any mismatches or odds???

Got any more pics of it??? That thing is badass! I wanna ride it.

I did a compression test yesterday and it was about 112 on left side and 110 on right.

I would say from the way it smoked before there is definitely a good coating of oil in the pipes. There is a station here that says it is 100 percent gas no ethanol. I'm going to use it from now on. Also, I'm going to try the Klotz but it's expensize. Are there any cheaper alternatives that anybody uses that still work good?? Like I said it runs good. It's not smoking like an insect fogger or anything just like it's got too much oil in it. Looking at plugs left side is good maybe slightly rich and right side just looks really rich to me. Both cylinders hit good and run pretty even. I already know I need to rebuild and clean my carbs, but they aren't giving me any real problems so I probly won't mess with it for a while. Oh and the bike is pretty much stock except for pipes, jets, and a pro design filter and manifold (not the k&n one)

I'm not loosing any trans oil and it doesn't smell like I'm burning it either. I'm going to get some Klotz today and try it. Also the gas I'm running is 91 octane, but at the place where I bought it had those stickers on the pumps that said the gas contains 10% ethanol. I'm wondering if that could have something to do with it??? Anybody have any issues with that?? More and more stations are going to the 10% percent ethanol mix.

Okay so I got my banshee out a few weeks ago and changed the plugs and tranny oil to get it ready for summer. I took it to the lake and rode it for a few minutes and it started smoking and bogging. I barely made it back to my truck. It was bad gas, I didn't even think about changing the gas it was a few months old. I drained the tank and put fresh premix in at 32:1. Now it smokes more than it did before the problem. It will kind of clear up when it gets good and warmed up but still smokes. It smokes out of both tailpipes with a little more out of the right (not much more though). It's more than just a little puff of smoke. If I have it in the garage and rev on it a little bit it will get a little smoky in there with the door open. It acts like it is mixed really thick with oil, but it's at 32:1. I've been running quaker state 2-cycle motorcycle oil and I was running it before with no problems. The bike runs just fine no power loss or anything. It just smokes. I haven't done a compression test jet but will. It feels like it has good compression when I kick it though. When it had the bad gas in it it was smoking like crazy and bogging. It backfired quite a bit too. I didn't try to ride the shit out of it, but did rev it a little bit trying to figure out what was wrong. It also seems to be losing a little bit of coolant but not very much at all. Maybe like an 1/8 of an inch on the reservoir under the seat after riding. It did that before too. When I run it really hard it will sometimes push a little out the radiator overflow. The smoke is kind of a greyish-white color. The bike has no trouble starting cold or hot and runs strong and smooth still. Also I pulled the plugs yesterday to see what they looked like and the left one was chocolate brown on the porcelin, but the right one was black.

I personally think the old cheap 10w-30 is the way to go. For one it's what Yamaha reccomends. Tranny fluid is probly ideal for the clutches, but not for the gears. I've tried the Maxima mtl 80wt and I don't like it. When the bike is cold, the oil is too thick and causes a lot of clutch creep. The 10w-30 won't do that when cold and it will provide good protection to the clutches and gears when warm. I haven't tried the amsoil yet, but I think I will because they have a 10w-30 oil made for wet clutches.

I don't know if the op is still on here but I have been tested several times in the past and 3-4 weeks is cutting it close. It all depends on how anal the person doing the testing is. There probably still trace amounts left in your system and they can cause small breaks or a small line through the thing on the test. If the person wants to be a dick they can fail you for that. You'll probably be fine because most likely they will send you to a doctor's office and they don't usually care too much. Google drugtestyourteen and go to the site where you can order your own drug test card things like the doctors use. You can also drink water for a few hours before you go to make sure you're clean. Just be careful that you don't get sent to somebody that thinks they are the drug test master or something because they might say something about your piss being clear as water..lol If you have a few days I highly reccomend testing yourself. I always do that before testing for a job just to make sure.

It does bother me. I'm kind of particular about my toys. I'm thinking the 10w-40 or something like that is what I need because it shouldn't be as thick when cold and I like being able to start my scooter in gear if I want to. I appreciate the advise I've gotten so far. The knowledge on this site is second to none.

How do you like the amsoil? The smoking thing is weird it didn't used to do that. When I first got it it would smoke a little when cold and then clear up after it warmed up. Now it still smokes when warm. All I did was change the tranny oil and put a new air filter on. The bike has a pro-flow adapter (not the K&N one) and I went with a replacement pro-flow foam filter. Oh and I changed the spark plugs and gapped them at .030 or whatever. And yes, I used the right plugs. I pulled the plugs not long after installing them to have a look and they both had a little oil on them. Not fouled or anything, just a little spot of oil. I ran the quaker state oil before with no smoke. I run 40:1 mix. The air filter I pulled off was the right one, but it was really dirty. I still have the stock air box and lid too.

I'm gonna go check and see if I can find the Accel stuff at Wal-Mart today. Anybody second that choice or have any objections. I want to know I'm running good oil. Is the Quaker State oil really that bad? I run it because almost every gas station around here has it, but have no problem changing if it will do some good.

I don't mean to say it's smoking like crazy or anything, but you can see it. I run Quaker state 2cycle motorcycle oil. I thought about trying to find some 10w30 or 40, but I got on here and Maxima was one of the reccomended oils and my local shop had it in stock. I don't mind spendind the money if it is good for my Shee. I'm pretty convinced it doesn't like the thicker oil though. That stuff was really highly reccomended by several people on a couple of threads on here. I need good advice on what type and brand of oil to run from someone who knows. In other words, what do you run in your Banshee? Should I go with Maxima 75? If I go with the regular motor oil I really need to know what to get. I don't want to go to the store and go through every oil trying to find one without additives in it.

The actual viscosity of that oil is 30. It's just called 80wt. It's made for bike clutches 2 and 4 stroke. I'm not burning any coolant. Look around on here Maxima mtl is pretty highly reccomended by a lot of people. The clutch acts fine when riding. What brand of oil are you running?

Any advise anyone?

The smoke is White. I searched around and most people on here were saying to run mtl 80. Right now is the beginning of spring so the temp is in the 60s, but yesterday was in the 40s because a cold front came through. It might have been even colder than that because it was late yesterday when I was testing it out. It seems to run really strong and the clutch works great when riding, it's just the clutch creep as you call it that's bothering me. It's like 60 outside today so I'm gonna try it again and see how it behaves. The oil coming out did seem a little lighter, but man was it black.

So I changed my trans oil today I have no idea what was in it before but I went with Maxima MTL 80wt. Now it seems that the bike is trying to pull with the clutch in. It's harder to start in gear with the clutch in and it tries to pull the bike forward a little bit. I know you are supposed to feel it when you kick it in gear with the bike running it just seems like the clutch is grabbing more like I need to adjust my clutch. Should I adjust it? The handle goes almost all the way back when I let off of it and there is a small amount of slack but not much. Should there still be tension on it when disengaged? I guess I just need to know whether or not I should adjust my clutch and how to tell when it's adjusted right. It's a 2000 model banshee stock. Also how much should it smoke on 40/1 mix and should the smoke clear up after it's warm? Mine isn't really clearing up and I have ridden other Banshees that didn't really seem to smoke at all when warm. Mine still smokes quite a bit when warm. It seems to run good with plenty of power and no bogs or anything, but it smokes a little more than I think it should..just wondering.

This pic is the actual nut.

Anybody got an aftermarket front bumper for a banshee they want to get rid of? I have a brand new anti-fade axle locknut for a banshee that I don't need and I do need a bumper. The nut is brand new never used. I am not sure what brand it is, but it's the one shaped like an actual nut.

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