j_rod421

I got my Cub motor running the other day. Took it out for a nice ride. I haven't changed any jetting from the old motor. I'm running some old school 28mm TM Mikuni's. (I know, I know... They have to go! But they have to work for a little while.) It idles fine, but there is a dead spot right before the power curve starts to kick in. It runs like it may be lean, but barely. I say barely because it doesn't get hot, and this dead spot in the mid range right before the top end kicks in I've noticed when the bike was lean before on the old motor. I checked the plugs, they're a crispy brown. Looking at the plugs, I wouldn't guess it to be lean but I just have this feeling. I'm open to suggestions here. P.S. If anybody out there has the factory cylinder set up and considering a change to an aftermarket cylinder set up like the cub, don't think about it, DO IT!! I am still cleaning my britches from how much more power these things make.

I'm getting my new 421 cub motor put together and will be staying with the stock swinger mostly due to finances. I only ride the bike at the dunes. I am a fairly well experienced rider and could handle the stock length with a 4 mill with factory cylinders with a drag port job. With stock gearing I'd have the front end up through 5th untill the last couple feet of the drag strip. With my new found power, is this going to be just plain annoying with a stocker or what would be a reasonable minimum on extended length. I'd like to keep the semi factory look to the chassis. Thanks!

That sounds like a small vacuum leak to me. If your being nice and takin it semi-easy through some puddles, the moisture in the air concentrated around the engine compartment can do enough to make it cut out, die, or sometimes nothing at all. I say this especially if you throttle is trying to wander around on you with out actually sticking. But at the same time I could very well be electrical or pod filter related. If your wiring looks good, you don't think the filters are letting water in, clean the bike up and closely inspect all your base gaskets and intake gaskets then check your torque on your cylinders. Or hell, just run it and take a squirt bottle to the bases and see if the bike struggles to run when you spray them. Hope it helps you!

Ya, I just put the cylinders on and have the head ready to go. That's the conclusion I came to also. It seems so damn simple, but I tend to over think things out. I've already did a mock build with the cylinders and the head to make sure everything would be right on them, and on the NOSS head, you do not need longer studs or have to turn them up to catch bite. Again, thanks for the input everybody! Should fire up this weekend. PS. All you Kansas and Midwest folks, what's the going rate for 110 fuel. Before I put the Shee away for over a year I was paying 7.00 a gallon for 110 Koch. With the plummet of fuel prices, I was wonderin if people are still trying to get the same price as when gas was 4.00 a gallon. Thanks!

First time owner of any aftermarket Banshee head, so I have one question before I install on the new Cub motor. On the NOSS Head, where do the copper washers go? I figured out all the other o-rings and where they go from checking out all the other threads on the site. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!

Yeah, I agree with the Blue Magic. Another little trick that I've learned is after you start rubbing the black shit out of it, cover a rag or your hand with flower and rub it down. Sounds crazy, but I've taken ancient douglas rims and used this technique and they shine if not better than brand new ones. But, rechroming won't be done. Not that desperate. If nobody has any kind of other tricks, it will have to do. You can only notice it if the light hits it just right. I picked em up for the right price so I guess I shouldn't bitch. Still open to any suggestions though!

Guys, I traded a set of Shearers for my Toomey T-5's plus some cash here recently for my new 421 Cub motor I'm building. The guys cool head failed him and soaked the exhaust with antifreeze. I've been cleaning them up and have been trying to get some of this stuff to pull out of the chrome. I talked to a harley guy and he said that it's pretty much there for life. I've been using chrome polish with very light steel wool so no swirling is caused. Does anybody have any suggestions or know a product out there that can help me out? Thanks!

I'm building my 421 Cub motor now. How you like it compared to your factory Yamaha cylinder set up 4mill? That's exactly what I had before I blasted the head clean off the jugs. I'm running 17cc domes on 110 or better. I'm still going to run the stock swinger... it was fun with my old motor cuz the front end would fly up out of the hole and fly by all the new 450 big bore guys and come down when I shut it down at the end of the strip. I'm excited, so give me a preview of what I'm in store for!

I'd really like the PWK's. What you askin?

I'm putting together my 421 Cub motor and I know I'm going to need to upgrade my carbs. I currently have 28mm Mikuni TM's. I'd like to find a set of used PWK's or TM's that are 35mm. If anybody has a set that they aren't using anymore, let me know. I'm located in the Wichita, Kansas area.

What's a good price for an override? Is it better to have your existing tranny changed to an override, or buying the tranny as an override from a performance shop? Do they change the gears around at all? The tranny I have in my bike the gears are bit closer. It's the tranny mod that Stallworth does (NMotion, Power Playground, JSR). I have to say, I love it! I wouldn't want to lose that.

Besides, the carbs and clutch... Any other necessary mods recommended for my transition? A port job is in store but that's down the road after a job promo. I'll still be running the stock radiator. I never once had any cooling issues with it as a 350 and a 4mill. I pick up my Shearers tomorrow and part ways with the Toomey's. Can't wait!! Only need the studs for the head now! If it wasn't 15 degrees outside, I'd be on my way to Little Sahara the day after I get it running. Thanks for puttin up with my ongoing and relentless questioning guys!!! :beer:

Thanks! I'll call 'em or email this week. How you like those Lectrons? What's tuning like on em?

Cool, glad I got on here before I started dishing money out on something that won't work for me. Carb wise like a PWK 35 would be best? I wanna be able to ride the trails and kick some ass on the drag strip. I still have a stock length swinger on it too. I think its fun! Old motor I'd pull 6th gear wheelies on the blacktop! For the guy that suggested the FRZ1000 fibers, what year do I order if it makes a difference? So, the lock up is an absolute NO with out an override? Too bad, they look really really cool! LOL!!

I've never run a bike with the cub set up. My factory cylinders made MAD power. Tim at Titan told me that I'll notice a night and day difference. So, you think without a lock up and the clutch fibers that you recommend it'll be reliable. Also, the ports are cleaned up and matched to the case. I'm running a Noss head with 17 or 16 cc domes.

I'm new here. I've owned the same banshee since I was 14 years old and it's gone through several changes motor and appearance wise. The most recent change is I sold my Stallworth race ported cylinders and head that was set up 4 mill and my very kind girlfriend bought me a 421 Cub kit from Titan Racing down in Mississippi. We've been pricing them for over a year now and these guys are by far the best priced you will find around. Anyways, I'm putting the motor together as anybody reads this. I know I'll need to upgrade my clutch, carbs, and exhaust. I found a great deal from a guy that was selling a stock motor bike that had the Shearer in frames and traded my old T5's plus some cash. Clutch wise, I've been really considering a lock up from Direct Drive. I've been seeing this set up for the last couple years down at Little Sahara. I've never ridden one with this set up. I've always been curious, is this set up alright for aggressive trail riding and hill shooting and all other crazy fun stuff? I've got the Hinson basket, pressure plate, and inner hub with the Barrenet "Sh*t Digger". My factory cylinder 4mill set up would torch this clutch set up in no time. I haven't been impressed with these clutches at all! Any better way to go? Also, my most local shop (NMotion) says to stay away from the lock up and go with their 10 disk set up. Very pricey compared to the lock up. Anybody run that? I've seen very very few of em at the dunes. Also, what carbs are gonna be my best set up? I'm running some really really old TM Mikunis 28 mm. They will have to due for the time being, same goes for the clutch due to finances. Is my jetting gonna be way way off? I figure it will have to be changed due to larger displacement and port design. Sorry for so long of a note everybody! Just have a lot of questions rattling around in my head. Any suggestions very welcome! Thanks!