bugnut

I am thinking why the bottome end is gone is the jetting right now. I don't have this thing anywhere near close. Once I get it close here at home I will test it out on the sand.

I tried them out on the street and it feels like I gained a lot more top end. Feels like it breathes better up top. I know I was a little lean too on the top end. I was on the edge with the inframes. As for the bottom to mid range I need a lot more tunning or I just lost a lot with the new pipes. I think I am a little lean at half throttle. I have the stock needles in and on the 5th clip. What is the next needle to richen me up around 1/4 to 1/2 throttle. So far I am liking these oof. Now I just need to get them in the sand. I will do some more test on the street to get the mid range to feel right. Also got a question about my plugs. My last set of plugs would not let me stay in the top end. I would hit third then start to bog out. Like it was running out of fuel. I put new plugs in (br8es) and was going to do a plug chop to see where the jetting was with this bog. Well I had no top end bog and it pulled like crazy. Now at the end of the day I started to feel this bog again. Just like it was going lean and running out of fuel. What would cause me to burn through plugs. I take them out and cant see anything broke or out of the ordinary. Should I try a colder plug like a 9. My ignition is all stock.

I got some Shearer Big bores in on trade and was thinking about putting them on the cub. Will this net me less or more power? I know small bores are better and that is what I thought I was getting but they turned out to be big bores so now I have them. Will I lose some bottom end or is the power just not going to be right with these pipes. They are oof's. The is race ported and fed with 39's. Current main jet is 175. That jetting is just right with 50 degree temps and 1200 ft elevation. Since I have the pipes I might just throw them on to see what it does. Just looking for some insight as to how they might do.

I coated the piston tops and domes with the ceramic coating. I tried the Dry Film Lubricant on the piston skirts and that wore off with about 5 min of idle time. With the new pistons I just coated the tops and domes. Then with the cyl walls I applied the PKSX POWERKOTE. Don't know if it gave me anymore power but knowing that it might take a little more heat before it gets to the pistons is worth it. I bought this stuff for my rabbit engine rebuild and had some left over and did a top end rebuild on the 421. Also figure that it might help with a lean issue if one every happened when trying to jet new carbs. The ceramic will take the heat first before hitting the aluminum. I can't tell a power change because when I did the top end I changed out my 35's to 39's and put on some Shearer's from Cpi's.

By all means if you can get them for $400 then get them. I do see that they are raw pipes that are non silenced. $350 is a decent price, $75 of that is for shipping. That is what the last set of pipes cost me to ship. So I could let these go for $250 plus actual shipping cost.

Need these shearer's gone. They are taking up space and collecting dust!

Dusty, great to hear you like the Fmf's. Still have the Shearer's for sale.

Bump

ttt

I am looking for some small bore oof sheares. What do you got for trade?

New price on the OOF. $350 shipped to your door!!!

fmf's are sold. Still have the shearer's

Shipping will be $25.

Got some fmf fatties with silencers. Could use a good cleaning otherwise nice pipes. No dents 125 obo. plus shipping Next up some shearer oof bb with silencers. Exit out each side. Not show chrome and have been welded on one pipe hanger. Does not show when mounted. Chrome is alright with some chipping here and there. No dents. $350 plus shipping I do take paypal plus 3%

Haven't been down there yet with the banshee. I was there with my kx250 and that is why I got my banshee now. It was a blast on the bike, can't wait till I get the cub over there

Does anybody have pics of there small bore oof pipes? I would like to make sure 100% that these are big bores or small bores.

Yeah I thought so. My inframes have the step at the flange where these oof don't have that step.

Here is a pic of the pipe. I have a feeling that it is a big bore.

I just picked up some shearer oof but don't know if there are small bore or big bore. The stinger outlet is the same size as my inframes. The header diameter is bigger with no step compaired to the inframes that have a step at the connector to the header. I am thinking that I got me a pair of big bores. Which I don't think will work very good on my 421 cub

yeah, after I read what you said about the flywheel I took a closer look and sure enough. I also looked at the pickup coil and the outer case was broken. Looks like the flywheel was moving around a bit. I almost started to take the cylinder off, glad I didn't

Got some good news. I found that I have a new two piece flywheel. That is what was causing the timing issue and the cranking hard. Once I put the flywheel back to where is was before it broke the engine turns over nice now. Thanks guys for your help. Now the only thing I need are some new reeds and a flywheel. Along with the stator and pickup coil. Then back to the drags.

Right after it got hard to kick is when I stoped. I know something inside is messed up but what would cause it to happen when I was cranking and then it popped out the exhaust then it was hard. The pistons have a lot of oil on them so I don't think it is there. I will take the jug off tonight and see how it turns. The one thing I can think of to make it get that advanced timing is the flywheel turned on the crank but with the key in there it shouldn't. I have looked at the flywheel and it looks great. Need to hook up my degree wheel and check the crank and flywheel timing.

Here is the low down. Was out on the sand having a good old time. Riding from one to the other and taking it easy the engine all of a sudden lost power and was backfiring out the exhaust then quit. Installed new plugs and nothing. When I kick the engine over it will just pop and sometimes it will idle but it takes a lot of throttle to get it to idle. So I checked the carbs and found nothing wrong there. They were just installed for this ride. They only have a hour on them. Both the idle and mains were clean. After that I tried to start it again and while I was kicking it pop and snorted and then got very hard to kick after that. I pulled both plugs and still hard to crank. Took the pipes and carbs off with the reeds and found when the left piston at tdc and left at bdc is when the crank turns hard. Pistons still look brand new. Still have only an hour on them too. So I have two questions. Did the cdi go out and put my timing way to far advanced and tried to fire it moved the crank out of phase or bent a rod. Next question is why did it die in the first place. I am leaning towards the cdi is messed up. I checked the reeds and they are still good. No broken edges or anything. I haven't checked the stator yet or the pickup coil. This is on my 421 cub with 39 pwks jetting was 172 main 50 idle.

Dunner, When do you think you are going to get it together? I have a group of people going to Moses on the 14th. I will be the only banshee in my group. It would be nice to see another banshee out there and do a few races with. I have no clue as to how slow I am compaired to others

Do you still have the shearer's? Also do you take paypal? Thanks Brian