muggzy
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Posts posted by muggzy
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Hey, can anyone with experience adding an adjustable timing plate tell me of the power gains are across the board, lo end or high end?
If it's across the board, is it bigger on the low end?
Thanks in advance
Mods;
Ported (unknown details)
Pwk-28 carbs
Trinity stage 4 pipes
Open airbox w/K&N filter
20cc domes on Pro Design Coolhead
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If you're gonna change the fuel mix, plan on rejetting. It *will* affect the jetting. Try to find out from the previous owner what he was mixing. Then check your jetting anyway.
If you already have a vehicle that runs 32:1, that's your best choice. Keep your life simple. I've never heard any real good arguments for going to 40:1. Also if your airtemp goes below freezing in the winter, use semi synth oil so it doesn't separate out in cold weather. I use Maxima Super M, but any modern 2 stroke blend will likely be fine.
Some good videos on YT for rebuilding your water pump. Good luck!
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Reactive Suspension (610) 493-0093
959 Memorial Hwy
Oley, PA 19547
US
The guy will talk to you about your needs and give you a perfect tune for your riding style/needs. I had him do my front Works triple rates and stock rear. He revalved and resprung them for my weight and extended geometry and they've been perfect.
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That's the point. Bigger isn't always better
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Saw the title of this thread and couldn't resist...
https://giphy.com/gifs/9tYwiwdFkvEoE/html5
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"... but if you want huge bottom end and tq buy SLP,"
What is SLP?
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That's an interesting idea. If I still had the carbs, I'd pursue it. In spite of the rediculous number of posts I put on Bhq and other forums, this is the first I heard of that theory. It's certainly worth checking out. I can say for certain, that it wasn't the seal on the caps,but I never checked the slide Glide or plug on the carbs.If water and jetting was issue on your stockers, that’s typically a sign that the slide guide/plug is leaking as well as the seal on the caps.Despite the possibility that you're right, there aren't any plugs on the Keihins to leak. So if the problem was leaky plugs, problem solved anyway with a better airflow on the intake in the exchange.
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On 11/24/2019 at 11:59 AM, gusto said:
Put your money elsewhere and run the stock carbs. Will be no difference on your engine. Unless you actually need carbs, I’d keep the stock ones and put money into go fast parts
Not true. I f'd around with oem Mikuni 26s for years and could never get the jetting right, had problems with engine run-away whenever I splashed through a puddle, poor low end power and throttle response and a distinct lag when hitting the throttle hard.
Put Keihin Pwk-28 carbs in and it jetted easily, ran like like a new machine with consistent throttle response across the entire throttle range and no more lag waiting for the power band to hit.
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Thanks for this. It turns out that mine was a loose spade connector on the coil primary :-)Go through all the little stuff and make sure everything is connected. basics first. I recently had a real idiot moment. my bike started breaking under power up top in the rpms as if the fly wheel or stator was going bad. I was 2 hrs from home with no parts to swap out. Thought it was jetting maybe, did slight adjustments just to rule out jetting, I was right it was electrical. Then I lost spark completely. Come to find out, it was one of the wires from the wire harness came un clipped from one of the primary leads on the coil, piece of rubber was still over it though, so it looked like it was still connected.
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I'm watching this thread carefully as my banshee just quit on me while out on a trail. Haven't started ohming anything out yet, but what are you using to "see" the pulse? Just a volt meter and watching for some change on the readout before it goes back to zero?You wont get any reading really as it should just be a pulse. As long as you see the pulse it should be fine.Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
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Get a climber manual and don't be intimidated to ask questions...... We all started exactly where you currently are. There is no such thing as a stupid question...... Only blown up motors because of stupid pride.....
Great advice here. Best in this thread. Definitely get the "Clymer's Manual for the Banshee" best investment you'll ever make. Your hard-starting issues definitely sound like your jetting is wrong.
Clean the carbs thoroughly and change your jets to the sizes Jereme6655 suggested. Also like J6655 suggested, never make more than one change at a time or you won't know what worked or didn't. However, a bad TORS switch can cause the engine not to run when you release the throttle. That's one main reason everyone deletes them ;-)
Since you got the TORS delete kit, go ahead and carefully install that and be sure the adjustment screw is tapped clean and that the face on the side of the carbs the you tapped from is flat and *filed* down far enough to allow you to adjust the slide height from zero to about 3/16 in. open when you view it from the intake side. Set that opening on both carbs to about half way for a starting point.
All of what I just said, you can do on the bench.
Also, when putting the slides in, there's a white dot on each slide. These should each face the outside (right or left) of the carb so they can be seen in the glass "window" on each carb side when the the throttle is wide open iirc.
The manual will show you what to expect with lots of (mostly) good pics before you dive in - like getting the slides off the throttle cables. But it won't tell you about aftermarket stuff like the TORS delete screw adjustment that I just described. Get the Clymer's manual and above all, be patient. I was exactly where you are years ago and wouldn't trade my Banshee for any other machine out there.
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Bump. Anyone with a +2 MX Swingarm or am I going to have to buy new?
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Thanks, but I ride trails. It's gotta be a +2
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20 hours ago, ginger said:
i got mine from JL for pretty cheap. and it has held up great.
I started looking through site sponsors and couldn't find "JL" can you give me contact info? If you're happy with the one you have, this may be just the ticket for me. Thanks!~
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Hey Ginger, thanks for the reply. Can I ask you what kind of riding you do? And your weight (glad we're not chicks
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No *Swingarm Shop* stuff. Thanks for looking
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Looking for a +2 Swingarm, Roundhouse carrier, chain guide mounting bracket and skid plate mount.
Lmk mfr, and price. pics too. No Swingarm Shop stuff. Thanks
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Yes, the motor that Yamaha put in the Banshee was used in a Yamaha street bike well. RM350 or something? Really not sure on the model. But it was def. In a street bike.Enlighten me some more? Is this motor stock he says it is a motorcycle motor but it is from the factory he says?
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x2I ran 27.5 pilots with 300 mains.
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They're great sliding over stuff. The ride Saturday wasn't the rockyest but definitely harsher than the test ride I gave it earlier. Smacked quite a few rocks and logs. Logs were barely noticeable, just glided right over them. The rocks, while you could feel the hits to the swing arm glides, there was no "lurch". However, those glides got pretty beat on. You can zoom in on the bottom right of the full bottom pic and you'll see what I mean. Gonna try some virgin UHMW on there (already ordered) instead of the sheet of reclaimed that this sheet turned out to be. May try some other grades as well but over all, very pleased. The swing arm glides are an extreme worst case application because they get mashed so hard. Definitely happy with the rest so far.So overall performance? How do you like them?
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I was hoping the screws show up before I went out riding Saturday, but they didn't show up until I was out riding Saturday. So after washing everything down and standing her up on her ass again, I got back on the A-arm part of this project The holes were drilled and counter bored same as before and then the bending began. I SHOULD HAVE made a jig with a piano hinge on it similar to a simple bending brake, but that would've been too easy. If you attempt this yourself, I strongly recommend you take my advice here and make a jig for yourself. You'll get a better, more aggressive bend WAY easier than the one I got. Still, I think the one I did here will do the job;
To get enough heat, uniformly over the entire bend area, I had to use a couple of boards to cover the unused part of the strip heater and use a heat gun on the top side. You can see the color change you're looking for nicely in this pic...
Once the color change is achieved, you've got to work quickly to form and hold the plastic in the position you want until it completely cools to room temp. I clamped a scrap piece of metal on the inside of the bend and a piece of 1 1/2" angle to get it into shape. Like I said, a jig would have been soooo much better. Will definitely make one if I build another set.
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I am impressed.
And I am not impressed very often.
Thanks!
I have a great idea , make a belly skid for me and with the cash you get be like getting all your stuff free ??? Lol
ROFL Yo Abe, You made me laugh hard enough that I'm certainly thinking about it. PM me tomorrow night and I'll let you know.
87 J Arm loose front end
in Banshee Repairs and Mods
Posted
Just get an a-arm roller. Or even a frame and make it what you want. It took me some time after I wrecked on a hill climb but it's all good now...
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