kliped
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Posts posted by kliped
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LOCATION: Lima, Oh
Hey guys, i have a 2002 ford explorer for sale. its in excellent condition inside and out.
straight from my craiglist adUp for sale is my 2002 Ford Explorer XLT. This explorer is in great condition with nothing wrong with it at all. It runs smooth and shifts smooth. the 4 wheel drive works amazing too. This vehicle cosmetically inside and out is extremely good.
the ac is ice cold and the heater works great too
This explorer is perfect for winter and summer.
It has the 4.0l v6 with 159,900 miles on it and you would never be able to tell. this vehicle was used to commute long distances so majority of those miles are highway miles and not city miles.
options:
tow package
4x4
4.0l v6
outside temp display
cruise control
power mirrors with puddle lights
keyless entry for doors and trunk
key pad on driver door (never get locked out again)
power front seats
cd player
ice cold a/c
here is a complete spec sheet http://www.edmunds.com/ford/explorer/2002/features-specs.html?style=100002015
I just did a tune up on the car which included:
oil change with filter
new plugs and wire
new air filter
new coil pack
new gas struts for glass part of trunk
new window regulators for both passenger windows (common problem, but once fixed, no more worries)
like i said, this vehicle runs like a champ and you would never be able to tell how many miles it had on it because of how well it runs and drives. very very smooth on the road.
i hate to say it, but winter is not to far away, get this 4x4 now and never be stuck in the snow again!!!
price is 5000 obo maybe willing to trade, depending on what you have
you can email me at the craigslist email or call/txt me at 248-219-8783
title is free and clear
Here is the NADA value of the vehicle, this is what all banks use when determining to give loans http://www.nadaguides.com/Cars/2002/Ford/Explorer-1-2-Ton-V6/Utility-4D-XLT-4WD/Values
forum member price is 4500 obo
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forgot to add price, the price is 4200
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Due to things coming up in my life, i am selling my 1999 pontiac trans am. i am selling it for my pay off so i can not go to much lower.
the car is a t-tops car and they do not leak at all.
the car is a 6 speed car and the tranny was rebuilt by the previous ower 10,000 miles ago, shifts very smooth.
it does have a good amount of miles on it at 164k, but the engine runs flawlessly with out any hic ups or hesitations.
it does not leak or burn anything at all. no rust on the car whats so ever.
the tires are relatively new and i just had a tire place dismount and clean all the beads of the rims.
the car has a couple good upgrades including
pacesetter long tube headers
3in y pipe
k and n filter
skip shift eliminator
racetronix walbro 255 fuel pump
racetronix fuel pump hotwire harness
and all the free mods are done also
drivers side window motor was just replaced
the car is power everything with keyless entry and factory alarm
the AC blows ice cold and the heat blows nice and hot
the drivers side seat is power with power lumbar support
has a very nice aftermarket cd player with a motorized screen
now the bad
the body can use a little work
the previous owner hit a dear with the passenger front but he replaced all damaged parts, so they just need to be painted, which is the headlight cover and passenger fender
also the previous owner backed into a light pole which put a good size dent into the passenger fender, which can possibly be popped out but i have not tried it yet
also the passenger side window motor went out but i might have the replaced before the car goes
lastely the interior is in ok shape, with the drivers side seat having a good tear at the seam and a couple things here and there.
can get more pictures upon request
also for an additional price, i can include an lq9 engine with TEA stg 3 heads and a couple other various items.
email me at borisxo@hotmail.com or call/txt me at 248-219-8783 my name is boris thanks
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200+psi on stock crank?!?! im not an expert but i hear thats dangerous.
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hey guys, im having a little problem and seeing if maybe you can please help me. the bike starts up and runs amazing. it almost always starts up on the first kick. the problem is, after running it for a little bit and its all nice and warmed up, if i shut it off for a few minutes, it doesnt like to start back up. itll take a good 6-10 kicks for it to finally fire up. but if im running it hard and shut it off for only a few seconds, itll fire right back up with out any issues. also if i let it cool down for a good 10-15min itll fire right back up on the first kick.
i have also noticed that if i try to give it some gas while kicking (when its been off for over a minute) it takes even longer for it to fire up.
my guess is that its running to rich but i am not to sure if thats whats causing it. im not fouling out plugs, they are a little dark but like i said, it fires up first kick after sitting for a long time.
any help would be great, thanks
i have the following mods
stock jugs bored .040 over
mild port work
cool head with 18cc domes
toomey t5s
vitos power pistons
timing set at +5
the trinity 2in1 carb with a 38mm flat slide keihin
running cam 2(110 octane) at a 38:1-40:1 mixture with klutz oil
b8es plugs
vf3s
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What is your name? : Boris Chernov
What is your Email Address? : Borisxo@hotmail.com
What is your Phone number? : 248-219-8783
What is your City? : Lima
What is your State? : OH
What is your Zip code? : 45801
VIN #: 1B3ES66S14D553218
Asking price is 13,500 OBO!!
This cars condition would be considered basically BRAND NEW!!
It has a 5 year 50k warranty that covers almost everything on the car!
the car was just fully detailed, buffed, waxed, clay bared, interior was fully cleaned, and everything was shampooed. this was all done professionally at a dealership!!!
as far as the car goes mechanically, it is 100% perfect!!!
BRAND NEW OEM TRANSMISSION
BRAND NEW OEM CLUTCH
BRAND NEW OEM FLYWHEEL
BRAND NEW OEM TURBO
BRAND NEW OEM MANIFOLD
BRAND NEW OEM WASTE GATE
BRAND NEW OEM RECIRCULATE VALVE
BRAND NEW OEM HEAD GASKET
ALL WORK DONE BY TRAINED PROFESSIONALS AT A DODGE DEALERSHIP!!!!
New performance rotors and pads on all 4 wheels
oil changed every 3k with mobile one and i just changed the oil, also just had a coolant system flush
HAVE RECEIPTS FOR EVERYTHING!!!
this car is simply amazing, the paint shines like it just rolled off the dealership floor. It is also extremely fast, this car is a factory freak! as it sits right now i have personally gone 13.0@106mph, i have time slips to prove it!
100% CLEAN TITLE AND CLEAN CARFAX
carfax available upon request. I AM THE SECOND OWNER!
NONE SMOKER!!
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hey thanks for your help guys, i never really thought about the compression being to high and killing my top end.
can you guys recommend anything thats cheap to do to get a little more power out of it? im at +5 degrees of timing right now, i dont really want to go to much more, maybe another degree or two.
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im no expert but that seems kinda low for 18cc domes
idk, the people at vitos performance told me that sounds about right
but then again, i am using an auto zone special compression tester....
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Whats your compression now with the 18cc domes? and why do you want to go to 15cc domes?
15cc dome would put you ruffly around 210 psi at 1000ft...
just went and checked my compression again, its at 165. i just want to get a little more power out of it the cheapest way possible and domes are only 50 dollars lol
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how much compression can i run before the stock crank gives out? i currently have 18cc domes but i was starting to look at 15cc domes. my current set up is listed below, right now i am running straight cam2 (110) and mixing 40:1 with klutz super techniplate
also if i switch to 15cc domes will cam2 race gas be enough or will have have to switch to alky or meth
stock jugs bored .040 over
mild/aggressive port work
cool head with 18cc domes
toomey t5s
vitos power pistons
timing set at +5
the trinity 2in1 carb with a 38mm flat slide keihin
running cam 2(110 octane) at a 38:1-40:1 mixture with klutz oil
also 2 steps colder plugs
stock gearing
i am right around 800ft elevation
btw my current compression is 165psi
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do the duel 30's or 33's. i would get the kehien pwks. i have the 28mm kihein pwks and no complaintes at all with the same setup except im gana b running 93 .
what do you think of the pj34s? also i saw on vitos performance website advertising the pwk 35s air strikers, but they are 100 dollars more than the 34s, is there anything better about them other than being 1mm bigger?
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Why colder plugs?
Less chance of detonation due to higher heat from high compression and advanced timing
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hey i was just seeing what you guys would recommend as far as what carb set up i should go with to get the most out of my quad. from what i have heard, i should go back to a dual carb setup but i just dont know what size and brand
my mods are listed below, i am currently running a trinity single 38mm carb. i want mostly top end. with my current set up, she pulls really strong in mid and top but i would like a little more top.
mods are:
stock jugs bored .040 over
mild/aggressive port work
cool head with 18cc domes
toomey t5s
vitos power pistons
timing set at +5
the trinity 2in1 carb with a 38mm flat slide keihin
running cam 2(110 octane) at a 38:1-40:1 mixture with klutz oil
also 2 steps colder plugs
stock gearing
i am right around 800ft elevation
any recommendations would be greatly appreciated, thanks
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i have had my banshee back together for a month or so now but just havent had a chance to go out riding.
so i finally got it out and me and a couple buddies went riding at a local riding place.
to get to the point, there was a newer raptor 700 there and him and i raced on the dirt
i launched in 2nd and we were pretty neck and neck, then i grabbed 3rd, started fish tailing but started pulling away pretty hard. finally shifted to fourth and i was pretty far up ahead
my mods:
mild port
bored .040 over
vito racing pistons
cool head with 18cc domes
toomey t5s
timing plate advanced 5 degrees
trinity 2into1 carb set up with a 38mm carb untuned (extremely rich)
running on 112 race gas with a 38:1 mixture
with out a tune and on stock timing i put down 54whp
i think he was mostly stock if not completely stock
now my main question is, my buddy has a new ds650 and is talking a lot of shit, but i have no idea how quick those things are, from what i hear they are faster than the raptor 700s
with a good tune on my carb, how good of a race should it be between my buddy and I?
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any reason why to be running cooler plugs? U running NOS?
because of the high compression and the advanced timing
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I forgot to mention that I am running vforce 3 reeds and will be running 40:1 mixture and 2 step colder plugs
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i know you guys probably get these threads all the time, but i really dont know much about jetting, so any help would be great appreciated.
i am running the trinity 2in1 carb set up with a 38mm carb.
my mods are:
trinity 2in1 with a keihin flatslide 38mm carb
toomey t5's
slightly aggressive ported jugs
vitos power pistons
cool head with 18cc domes
timing plate set at +5degrees
cam2 110 octane race gas
900ft elevation
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So you did not split the case?
nope, it came clean out the left side lol. i now can see complete through the hole to the other side lol
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thanks for the help guys, in fact the rod and ball and lever did weld together. i got them out but at a price, the long lever didnt come out the correct side, so now i have a hole in my case, but a little bit of the JB weld should fix that right up....
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might have welded the push rod/ ball/ actuator/ adjuster. any of those together.
damn....how hard is that to fix or am i fucked?
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hey hows it going, i am having a strange problem with my banshee. the clutch lever on the motor is seized in the clutch pulled in position and wont move at all. the clutch it self is engaged. i tried adjusting the phillips head stud in the middle but that didnt do anything.
this all happened when i was on the dyno. i made my first pull in 4th and after the pull i pulled in the clutch and started downshifting but i had no clutch, there all of a sudden was a whole lot of slack in the cable. well i didnt know what to think so i just took the slack out with the adjuster on the lever. i then made another pull and same thing happened but now i ran out of adjustment and the clutch lever on the motor was maxed out and wouldnt move in either direction.
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or best offer
2002 Ford Explorer xlt 4x4
in For Sale - Non Banshee Related
Posted
sold, please lock it up