Mirage

Hi everyone, i need some definate help with checking my bike for an air leak on the right side cylinder (brake lever side). What works best to spray on the motor for checking? Also What exact area's of the motor do i need to spray, that are common on shee's for leaking? And lastly do i need to check the bike as soon as i get it started and idling good because of the hot exhaust being so close by (not full warm up)? Also do i need to listen for the rpm's to drop or gain?

Hi guys thanks for taking a look at my post! Yeah i've road the bike atleast 2 hours or so around my yard, i havent taken it out to my planned riding area because of the problems. I havent cleaned the carbs so that's definately on my to do list and very soon, however when doing the jet and needle change they looked very clean on the inside. Yeah i've tried a couple of sets of plugs one set when the popping started (without mods) NGK BR8es resistor's and the second set (NGK B8ES) non-resistor style that i installed as soon as the mods were completed (airbox delete and carb rejet). Mopar rules, thanks for the tip, if i'm still loading up on the bottom (excessive smoking) after i fix the lean cylinder i may just give it a try and go back to the stock 3rd groove on the new needles. The jet kit i purchased was the fmf power-up kit, i believe that dynojet helps them put their kit together. I ride mostly at night annoying the neighbors lol it's usually around 65 degrees and kinda cool (some daytime riding around 85 average, my elevation is around 3,000 ft. I'm close to the blue ridge parkway at the top of the mountain, so my planned riding area will be alittle bit less once i get it sorted. I'm definately interested in checking for an air leak, what's the best way to try and check? If i use starting fluid will i need to check immediately after i crank it and get it idling good to avoid spraying near the hot exhaust, I just don't want a fireball in my face LOL Also what area's will i need to spray and check? Thanks again guys for taking the time to post i appreciate it I'm a definate Banshee 2 Stroke newbie for sure, My last atv was a 400ex that i purchased back in 99 before the magazine even had time to test it (loved that quad but sold it) however i have always loved the looks of the banshee so here i am Can't wait to get this thing absolutely ripping!!!

Here are some pics of my plugs, my bike is basically an all stock low hour 95 never rebuilt to my knowledge (3rd owner = me). The bike has FMF gold series pipes & silencers K&N filters (2) with no airbox & the carbs are the factory mikunis with an fmf/dynojet jet kit with 280 mains and needles on the 4th clip (my elevation is 3000ft.) The problem that i am having is a light to medium popping noise in the right silencer that is constant & best heard if standing behind the bike (hard to notice while riding). The plug for that cylinder appears to be possibly slightly more hot or lean with a more silverish electrode. The bike takes forever to clean out when first cranked with excessive smoking once taken past idle speed (bike idles great). After a bit of riding say 7 or 8 minutes with varying revs it finally cleans out for the most part and makes decent power once i get past a slight break up in the low rpms it pulls cleanly and revs out great. I have only had the bike for a month or so and when i purchased my banshee the full exhaust was already on it however the carbs were bone stock (untouched) with 3rd clip and 200 mains & also the stock airbox complete with lid. The bike run great for a day or two, but then developed a few problems such as the excessive smoking & popping that i blamed on the first batch of gas that i mixed (Yamalube R 24:1 with 93 pump) however i have now switched to a 32:1 ratio with same oil. So far i have changed the plugs twice just to be certain with the same results however it does run slightly cleaner (but not much) for a bit and cranks using less kicks when dead cold with fresh plugs for a day or so. I'm going to get a compression gauge soon and see what i find. The right cylinder that pops does have a feeling of uneveness and slight roughness to it when revving in neutral compared with my normal acting left one. I'm also having a problem with fuel coming out of the short overflow tubing on the sides of the carbs but only if i am riding on two wheels (bicycling) so i'm not sure if this is normal or just going to happen when riding on 2:) Any help is greatly appreciated:) Popping CylinderNormal acting Cylinder

Let me rephrase that the popping in the exhaust is at the rear right silencer not at the front of the bike.

I have a set of the FMF gold series pipes and they do wiggle a bit, though they are firmly on the machine you have to grab hold and actually get them to move some (wiggle). I've been meaning to post a ? on here for awhile about pipe fit? Should the exhaust flange on the head (exhaust port) be showing any? Mine does show between 1/8 & 1/4 of an inch and i have been having a constant light-medium popping noise in the right side cylinder for some time now (although both sides do have a sealing gap between the pipe and head. My pipes also do rattle sometimes and vibrate (shake lightly).

I'm currently looking to buy a new compression tester so that i can get some good accurate numbers on my 95 shee (never rebuilt to my knowledge), does anyone have some good recommendations? My main concern is accuracy and value, i'm looking for cheap say $50 or less if possible. Also could someone help me out as to what size adapter (mm) i will need to thread the gauge into the stock head? Thanks:)