UNCC Grad

I bought some used Burgard 2+1 arms....this is how the banshee should have come stock! Wow, it's like a totally different bike now!

I added some Burgard 2+1 a-arms that I got locally off craigslist. I paid $200 for the a-arms and some new white tank and radiator plastics. After taking a couple hours Saturday to put on the new arms, I finally got to take the bike for a good long ride yesterday. WOW, what a difference! It feels like a totally different bike, like what it should have been from the factory. Before I was afraid to jump my Shee b/c of the weight forward it comes stock. It wanted to nose dive severely when airing it out. With the Burgard arms, it helps get some weight off the nose and if anything it wants to land tail down when catching some air. If the trails, it handles so much better and doesn't make you work as hard as the stock arms. So far it's been the best upgrade I have done. Next step is some aftermarket shocks to help absorb the impact a little better.

Looking for some white rear fenders and aftermarket shocks.

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Sounds like a fat pilot jet. What jets are you running, needle clip positions and what mods? Try this. Put it on half choke or tie a zip tie on the choke shaft to space it out and give it choke. If it revs better you are lean on the pilot, if it gets worse you could be fat. I'd also pull the carb slides and set the needle to the middle clip. My bike had the needle too far up making it hesitate. When I dropped the needle it made a big difference.

I think you can, but I'd have to ship the bolt assembly seperate from the barrel and receiver. I have never broken down an 870 that far though :ermm: You interested?

Forgot, location just north of Charlotte, NC

Stock nerfs with footpegs, no bolts for mounting to frame since I had to reuse them to mount my new nerfs,could use a good cleaning and possibly a coat of paint $45 shipped Motion Pro twist throttle and cable, for use with non-TORS equipped bikes. This was on the bike when I bought it and was used with the stock carbs, not sure if it will work with aftermarket carbs or not. $35 shipped Jaws bumper in excellent shape, no dings or bends $45 shipped I'm also willing to trade any or all of this stuff for skid plates, plastic, adjustable timing plates, polished items, front bumpers...basically I'm open to anything, just shoot me a PM.

Actually no I didn't put much torque on them, the spring was just binding up. We oiled the cap, spring, slide, etc, but the spring was just binding up in the slide and causing the slide to rotate when the cap was tightened. I had to back off the cap almost 1 full turn from as tight as I could get with my fingers just to get the spring to quit binding and spinning the slide.

I would also entertain a Noss head with 21 0r 22cc domes and a little cash.

I have pipes now, so I'm in the market for a-arms, shocks or some white, black or silver plastics.

Willing to add a motion pro twist throttle with cable along with my bumper. The twist throttle is in great shape and includes cable for non-TORS stock carbs. All you need is the carb caps and idle adjustment screws.

It came on the bike. I was hoping to find an AC bumper to swap it for.

I got it rejetted tonight. 300 mains, stock pilots and 3rd clip on the needle with 1 1/2 turns. The previous owner had 240 mains and really rich on the 2nd clip. By switching the needle clip it really helped with powerband lag that was present on the previous jetting. No I didn't run it any length of time with the 240s but I had to give it a quick run to hear the new pipes. I will be doing some plug chops to get my mains spot on but I think I will be safe running a little rich with the 300s for now.

Thanks guys. I was tightening the caps too much causing the spring to bind and twist the slide out of position. I backed off it a little and all is well.

I was afraid I might have gotten them crossed up. I read Ben's jetting FAQ but I'm still unsure how to tell which slide goes to which carb.

After searching a bit I will try to pull the slides out today and polish any burrs with sandpaper to see if it helps the sticking issue.

Locking clips? I didn't see any. What do they do, keep the slide from rotating? If so that seems like it would fix my problem. I tseems that when the slide moves up when I twist the throttle, it (the slide) rotates and won't fall back into position so the slot in the slide and tab in the carb meet up, allowing the slide to fully seat.

Wtt alum jaws bumper for a different style alum bumper. Mine is in great shape.

I plan on ditching the twist throttle and going back to a thumb but today I took off the carb caps and when I put them back on I couldn't get the left carb slide to stay down. I could get it to seat but when I rolled the throttle it would slide up then get hung on the brass pin in the carb. I messed with it for over an hour with no luck no matter how I adjusted the carb cap. What's the trick? I really only want to have to buy the new cable to go back to a thumb throttle, not the whole tors eliminator kit but I also don't want to kill myself with a stuck throttle!

Too much IMO, but ATVs, especially Banshees go for much cheaper here on the East coast.

Thanks guys, found some Gnarlys

Thanks for the help guys. Anyone have experience with the Gnarlys? I do mainly trail and field riding (No dunes around here) so I thought the Gnarlys would be a good fit.

I'm getting a set of used FMF Gnarlys coming to me and need to get my jets set correctly. Stock carbs, stock bore, no porting 700 ft (central NC) Single K&N with no lid Stock gearing Thanks in advance!