clayton00grand

OK I just replace my rings on my PRO-X pistons I had to broken expander rings and I beleive a bad crankseal. I did all that New rings cylidner walls looked perfect no scuffs nothing. INstalled everything put it back to gether and all that cleaned carbs. And it seems to just not ahve the power it used to have compression right around 120 squich is right at .043, It starts up first kick rus strong but it has a very very difficult time pulling the front wheels up I I ahve 40 over pistons new rings reed spacers, boost bottle , aftermarket pips and silecners unsure of bran. And 4 degree timing advnace, before my rings broke I could literlly let off in 4th smack throttle and be standing it up riding a nice wheelie. Now I have a very didficult time doing it in 2nd to 3rd. I don't understand how I low that much power aftermarket 28mm carbs in ohioevelation by the way. where do you think jets hsould be at roughly Or does this sound like a jetting issue?

Over the winter I had popped out my reeds and looked at them everything was fine then no cracks or anything , I just check pickup gap last night it was .021 and I set it to .018 per vitos and the book I have for it.. The only 2 things I can think of is that reeds went, and maybe the stator. I also rode it around it was pouring rain last night so didnt ride too much , but I took temp of pipes when I got back inside and the left side was 121 degrees and right side was 98 degrees. Once warm this thing kicks over awesome and starts everytime first kick (knock on wood).

Compression tester isnt the problem, its not a cheapy, and yes it is a 120 psi and always has been, and yes they are 28mm mikuni round slids. I' starting to wonder about the stator.

I'm in Ohio so pretty flat don't konw exact elevation, 120 both cylinders. I talked with vitos again and before that I look at the start while I had flywheel off looking at advance key, and the 2 towers that are across from the pick up coil are blackened and somewhat soft and it looks like one of them has melted away a bit. He suggested that maybe I had a weak coil in the stator because after I rode it there was fuel mixture on the plug still, and that maybe because of that of that he would be thinking it was the stator. next thing would be crank seals. Any thoughts.

Ok today I pulled carbs out and cleaned them all up I didn't see anything in them but thought what the heck. I had talked to Vito's and realize that I had my reed spacers on wrong side of reed so I switched that around. I measureed my carbs they are definately 28mm He said with lid on I should be around the 240-250 main jet which is what I had in it, and about 280 or around there without airbox lid. He also suggested that I look at the degree key I put in and make sure it hadn;t slipped and done anything in there key loked perfect. Now I am completely out of guess. This is just a recent accurance heck just a little whilele ago I was riding wheelies 1-4 gear no prob now the fron wheels won''t even come up in 1st gear Does anyone have suggestions, we looked at the pistons when had reeds off and everything they looked good from what you could see faint scratches but thats it. With me flopping the reed spacers around it definately helped the low end but the fact that I can not pull wheels is bothering me when I put carbs back on let fuel get to them it wi fired up first kic, once warm it has always done that. top end it seems great. Please help I have noticed whether or not it is anything or not, when I check tranny oil it always seems to be low is it possible that I have a seal that went bad.

What is throwing me it ran for so long now its giving me trouble. I am wondering if its age on the rings finally is catching up with it. I have literally not popped things apart since the complete rebuild back about 8 years ago never needed also ran a raped ape, and even better after the 4+ degree timing advance that really woke up the low end. But now things don't seem to run worth a crap unitl you hit the major powerband and even then kinda seems to sputter a bit. I can barelly pull the wheels in 1st heck before I could could let off the throttle and smack it again in 4th and it would stand up and wheelie riding I was going.

Ok the bike has 28mm Mikunis on it no TORS, bored I want to say .020 over, K*N air filer, stock lid aftermarket pips and silencers, not sure what brand but they are pretty big by the gas valve area they actually almost rub there, ailencers I believe are answer ones. Reed spacers and boost bootle. Main jets are 240. I tried to take air lid off and it did not help what so ever. It was reworked about 7-10 years ago havent really ever rode it to hard not much time for that. I almost forgot a Pro Design cool head and running 93 octance and Amsoil Dominator racing oil, 32:1. Also 4 degree timing advance. Anyways, riding in say 1/2 to full throttle its fine but done low it really seems to lack any power, I used to be able to pulled the wheels up to 4th gear and ride a fairly nice wheelie. now even 1st won't pull the front up. Is it a jetting problem or is the old mule just ready for a tear down? It doesnt lack any top end to my knowledge anyway but the low gears quicking recing really puzzles me. I thought about thowing a 250 jet in there and seeing what it does but am I waisting my time. Carbs are nice a clean been off recently Any thoughts woudl be great. Thank you

slides on these carbs wont go in wrong direction, Reeds are crackedor anything like that where and how would a air leak come about now.

Thats what really ticks me off they were chipped or cracked or anything like that, all I did was take the carbs off clean them and pipes and paint them and toss new reed gaskets in reeds and now it won't start. I don't understand how it can go from running kinda crappy low end to not even starting. If the plugs aren't damp or anything like its not getting fuel, where would there should i replace the reeds u think Like I said before I pulled it into shop I could go kick it a few times start right up, and once warm and say I stalled it or shut off for a few minutes and fired back up one kick everyitime. Is the main jet being 240 too small or anything, man right after I did the +4 degree timing key this thing ripped lots of low end and pulled wheels easy in 4th which it would not do before.

So you don't install the reeds dry? I cleaned them off the same time I cleaned the carbs.

I debated trying that last night, what would make it not start now versus starting and and everything fine just before I pulled it into the shop. Since I have a timing advance key would it still have spark and maybe the key sheared off and its not telling things to get fuel at the right time? Would worn reeds cause it not to have much low end, thats the reason it was brought into the shop. I s say would come out of a corner a slow corner, and bog way down,almost die then pull clutch in get rpms up and let off clutch everything igood. The first night I got it back together and I got fed up with trying to kick it I thought what the heck I'll try to push start it by myself kinda hard but anyway, it ran for about 3 seconds just long enough for me to hear it barely I tried to jump on it so I could reach the gas better and could make it there in time. I don't have anyway to tell what mikunis I have, I have the brass lever push down choke., how do you measure for size of carb which side you measure I'm pretty sure its 28mm but not quite sure. NO choke tube present 2 totally different carbs from the stock ones. Slides are definately not stuck open either they slide very nicely.

OK after I started to notice a little bog down low almost like a stutter, I decided to pull it into the shop and take a peek at the carbs. I pulled the pipes off because I wanted to paint the exhaust portion it had looked kinda rusty on the outside. I popped the carbs out and then the reeds with the attached boost botttle off , look at the reeds noticed that the bottom of them just seemed further apart from the cage, so I tried flipped them around that seemed to tighten the clearance up. after cleaning the carbs which looked good by the way, but I figured I was this far might as well. I installed everything with new reed gasters and hooked everything back upa dn no dice, PLenty of good blue spark (awesome blue), gas in the bottom of the bowls, took plugs out and nothing on them and barely even noticed a smell on them. So I thought well maybe that reed flip messed me up so I took all back apart cleaned carbs again, and flipped back to originial position and still no luck and plugs still not damp at all. Everything looks good and this bike has always fired up at least within 5-6 kicks max, depending on temp outside. List of mods include Cool head with 19-20mm domes I think its been a while. Dual 28mm Mikuni carbs with 240 main jets, and pilot is too small I can't read it. Some sort of pipe no brand name, answer silencers, (bought ity with pipes) it was bored and .020 over and crank redone by tony ducas racing , granted I know its been a while since I have tore it down but It has never lacked on power. I put a +4 degree timing advance in it about 2 months ago and that helped a lot (key version) I'm at a cplete loss what to do next, The last time I rode it which was about week ago now, I can pull the wheels in 4th no prob. This whoel carp of everyone redoing there rings every so often is bull, unless you notice a huge power decrease its a waste. I haven't plus I still have 120 compression in both cylinders. I just understand why gas isn't pulling into the cylinders. Someone please help me

OK thanks I was going to try that meaybe but didnt if any other suggestions, based on my mods what you guys think my jets should be, ohh I do have reed spacers too if that changes anything. and how about air/fuel mix screws. Thanks again

I meant to add when I first start it up it smokes only out of left pipe until you give it a bit of throttle, and is maybe running for ohh say 1 minute, then both pips smoke.

OK here is the breakdown on things, I have ridden my bike more in the last 2 months then I ahve probably in the last 2 years. I had rebuilt this thing about 6 years ago, it has always run very very strong, , I have noticed it has been getting more difficult to start if I dont run it in say like 1-2 weeks, 5-7 kicks insttead of 1-3. Warm first kick everytime, Anyway about 1 month ago I put a timing advance key in and wow noticed a huge power difference by the way thanks everyone on that, I did some of my own reading. And I have done compression check not long ago and had 120 each, havnet done it since this problem it just started doing it. You will be running in tight woods or wherever and say your running 1/4-1/2 throttle, then bogs way down and you blimp the throttle and its fine. I was riding it last night going down our farm path beside buddy to get to the fields we ride and Im in second or 3rd don't remember running 1/4-1/2 and boogs way down, kinda blimp it and comes back. This is very annoying in in the tight woods and steep hills like the trail I have at my grandparts farm, the whole trails in on the side of a hill, and runs through the creeks which have no water in tem right now anyway. Mods list is Aftermarket pips not sure what brand, answer silencers, dual Mikuni 28mm carbs, K&n filter, no tors unplugged and left harness there and electric taped up just because didn't feel like removing all of it. No parking break I have the ASV clutch, +4 degree timing advance. Cool head, with I believe 19mm domes or 21mm Its been so long. I run 93 octane 32to1 mixture of amsoil dominator. Boost bottle Thats all that I can think of I believe when it was rebuilt a while back its .20 over bored with pro-x pistons. Like I said I haven't had any problems until here as of late. Is there any suggestions to do or what would make it do this, I really need to get rid of low end bog, My 250r I have has little to no bog in it at all, very strong bottom end.

i run these tires and I love them I got them from a local harescramle rider they already had race and half on them and they still look like the day I got them, I have thru mud, rocks, thorns whatever and not had any problems yet. Actually I'l wanting another set.. But unfortunately they don't make a 8" rear that is the right size or 6 ply one or the other I don't remember. Anyway, I love them and would recommend them again.

Its not that I didn't want to put a good kit in I had it handy to keep up and running, is the fibers the issue?? Because it looks liekk the 2 fibers are set up for diameters with cushions obviously no cushions are installed. should i take clutch fibers out Thoughts please.

ok a while back I installed a raptor clutch fibers in my shee, when my much older shee fibers shatter 2 or 3 of them. Anyway after riding for a while I notice fade and its usually really bad I only installed fibers and 3 of the 6 HD springs along with my stock springs that i took out. But what I noticed is the raptor kit has 2 fibers that has a larger inner diameter I'm assuming for a cushion install or something. Because there was 8 plates which is obviously too too much for the install. So if someone could lend a hand I would appreciate it. I'm just afraid that the fiber are the problem being that one is different diamter.

I have some a banshee twist throttle set up I took off I hated the twist on it. Looking to sell. I put it on one afternoon and removed the same afternoon. It is a motion pro cables included. I also ahve stock head and stock carbs as well. Let me know if anyone is interested I want to try to get rid of some of this stuff. email me [email protected]

It has plenty of good spark, the guy that owns it was over here and grabbed a hold of spark plug wire and put him on his butt.

We figured out why the bike basically kept running after turning off everthing and unplugging spark plugs. Anyway this bike is extremely hard to start, But once its running and warm its easy as pie to start. Any thoughts? Thanks Clayton

yES IT IS i TOOK OFF THE CARB BOOTS WITH THE BOOST BOOTLE LEFT ON IT NEVER DISASSEMBLED IT.

Yes who we have bore our cylinders we send them the jugs they send us cylinder and pistons back bore to match supposedly never ran into problem with them before. Could there be anything else. What I dont understand i started it up the first time tonight and it started very hard the carb tops were loose, after i got it running rode it around yard 2 times then noticed it kind sticking a bit. Shut off took off seat and looked on cap was completely loose/off i tightened it very tight prior to this. By no means am I second questing anyone just trying to figure this damn thing out. I myself have a shee and it has tors removed and different carbs and mine was rebuilt some years ago. mine still runs great.. Thanks again

Got a bike in the shop to put in new pistons and rings. cylinder bored just a touch over to clean up, new gaskets. Anyway finally had time to finish it up tonight, I started it up and was tinkering around with the carb making sure they were tight and all before the ride. It still has factory TORS installed.. Anyway I started it up and put seat back on and , sat on it cracked the throttle a bit and then it kept running without me touching throttle. So I decided to turn off key switch, factory slide on the bars, and still running. Then I turned the gas valve off , and had some insulated pliers handy, so I yanked plug caps off and damn thing still running. So at that point I;m like well hmmmm. Finally it ran out of fuel and then died. What would cause this problem? Thanks Clayton The reason for new rings and pistons to start off with was blow by ring was stuck in piston only like 50 psi. So any thoughts anyone has please chime in. They want to pick up this weekend.