Graphichead

So, John at RJATV refunded my money for the wrong pistons... I ended up getting the proper pistons directly from Trinity. BUT!!!! Long story short... I get her all put back together, and my brother takes it out that night and forgets to mix the gas... I get home from work and my engine is seized ($%&^* I was mad). Anyway, after 2-3 hours of getting the melted pistons out... I find the cylinder had cracked.. so I shipped it off to Lynn at LCPerformance (real good guy). I should be getting that back in a week or so. Cracked the bottom case and found the Vito's crank was shot, so I just put is a less expensive wiseco crank (was going to go strocker, but can't afford it right now). So, I've been without a Banshee for almost 3 months!!!! I have my Rap 660 in the garage, but that's not fun to ride compared to the cheetah cub. Nice in the trails though. Hope get the Shee back together before the end of summer :-( Oh yeah, Moto Tassinari warranted the V-force 3 reeds that melted... they sent me a brand new set of reeds and cages plus 2 sets of paddles. Nghe

Yup, the blaster pistons sit lower... the guy sent me the wrong pistons. I hope he's going to exchange them. I'll let you guys know how it all turns out... THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP!!!

These are the pistons I bought.... http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewIt...em=170197102371 They say for 68mm Cheetah Cubs, and they sent Blaster pistons. Did I get screwed?

Can you tell me your reasoning behind this?

I replaced the reeds, and got the same result... shredded a second set of reeds #*&^&! This is why I so confused.

Hi all, I can't figure it out. I popped a hole in my right piston, just recently, but the left suffered next to no damage... which I find strange cause at the time I had a 2 into 1. Anyways, there wasn't any sign of damage to the cylinders, so I just honed them and bought a Wiseco 68mm piston kit off ebay and installed them. When I started her up, the backfiring started on the right side. I checked the time plate and fly wheel... everything seems fine there. The plugs are getting plenty of spark. My vforce 3 reeds are shredded on the corners now! I did a compression test and I'm only getting 50-60psi on both sides... this is strange cause I had 130-140psi before I popped the piston. I noticed that my Dyna FS CDI switch fell off (maybe in the winter)... could a short in the CDI box cause the backfiring? I put the dual carbs back on, but still backfiring. I switched plug wires and the backfiring also switched (for a while)... now it seem that it's just the right side backfiring now. Why would I be getting such low compression (the kit was actually 2 blaster pistons). Could the low compression cause the backfiring? HELP!!!! PLEASE!!!!! Graphichead

Ah, thought so, thanks!

Hi, I'm thinking of getting a 2 into 1 intake, but I just wanted to know if I can just bolt on 1 of my 35mm billet boots or do I need to by a boot specific for 2 into 1 systems? Graphichead

Ah, thanks guys.

I took off the top end and found that there was no oil in the crank case... I'm no expert, but I think that's bad. How much oil should be in there just debris from a blown piston? Is there a specific brand I should use for a Vito's Keyed Crank and a 68mm Cub? The bearings seem fine... there is a little lateral play on the rod between the washers... is that normal? Do I need to split the case to clean the crank and crank case? Or will a bunch of cleaner and a shopvac do? I really don't want to open the case up if I don't have to. Nghe

OK, I guess I gotta back up a bit... I just did a magnet test on the cylinder wall to see if it's nikasil... and the magnet stuck... Doesn't this mean the my cub isn't nikasil? I thought all cubs were plated. Is the magnet test even true? Man I feel dumb and I have no bike to ride and the weather is beautiful! Guess this is called learning :-) Nghe

The right side is pretty scraped up from a blown piston. You're saying I just have to re-nicasiled no boring needed? Nghe

OK, I finally got some time to take a look at the top end and it looks like I don't need a crank after all... BUT! I will need new pistons and to bore out the jugs. Does anyone know if I can bore 396cc Cheetah Cub cylinders? What should I bore too? What is the minimum and maximum? I think they are Nicasil does that mean they need to be renicasilled after boring? What kind of pistons should I get? If I bore out should I get smaller cc domes? OK too many questions. Nghe

Thanks for the great info so far guys. Bansh-eman: I assume you have the 18-55 kit lens. 18 is great for this shot... to get a blurry background the concept is to cut the ratio (in distance) between the camera - the subject (Banshee) and the subject - background. 18mm (smaller the number the better) will let you get close but still have the entire subject in the frame. Kneel down to increase the ratio. Don't shoot indoors unless you have a good external flash. If you put you XTI on "M" manual you can change the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO. These will all can greatly effect the photo as well. You should play around with it, the XTI is a great camera... I'd love to live near some dunes... Nghe

I need to replace my crank. Should I go stock or +4? I have stock stroke now, is it just as easy as changing to a +4, rejetting and switching to 100+ Octane? I have a Hemi Head with 20cc domes on a 396cc cub. Am I missing something.

A shot in action. Nghe

My Shee... Love it... jetting prob right now. Love all the photos of some great Banshees in this thread. Nghe

Hi all, I've been doing some reading on this topic already, and have made some jetting adjustments, but still getting some gunk coming out of the pipes (at the jugs) and the end of the silencers. I've adjusted the air screws by what I consider way too much (about 3.5 - 4 turns out). Feels like the screws are going to fall right out. I've adjusted the needles 1 notch up... seemed to help out the throttle response. I've changed the mains to 148 from 155 (PWK 35mm)... not really sure what that did (the bike going way too fast to ride wide open) I haven't touched the pilots. I've checked the plugs, and they seem to be burning fine (chocolate milk color with no gunk). I mix 50:1 Amsoil dominator. I'm at 500-600 ft. This might be interesting. I'm not sure if there is a connection, but I've started adding octane boost... would this contribute to the problem? Side question... is it ok to add octane boost to 100 octane gas? Any help would be great! Nghe

Nevermind... its sold. Nghe

Went to a sick MX track this past Monday... I gave the cable about 1/4" play and it was much easier to pull, I think I'll still get an E-Z clutch system cause my forearms were still dead after 5-6 laps (though MX is tiring anyway). Thanks a lot for all your help guys!!! This a great group of ppl at BHQ. PS my buddy got a short movie of me doing a couple jumps that I hope to put up on BansheeTube. Nghe

Sorry, but what does a lockup do exactly? Rubberneck: I'll lube it again and see if that helps any. Bada450r: Lever doesn't have any play... So if the alignment is off this will cause the stiffness? Thanks for all the great input guys! Nghe

Hi, I have a Banshee for sale. Fast bike... many extra parts. $5000 Let me know if you have any questions. Nghe

If I alternate 3 HD and 3 stock will that be enough for a 85-89HP motor (what I'm told this bike puts out)? No I don't have an EZ perch level... I flipped an extra long break lever... helped out a little. Don't think it's the cable... it's had very low hours since a from frame rebuild. Wacko2000: I like the rears... they're reversible for soft and hard terrain. okbeast: yeah the fronts are a little grabby... think I liked my old Razrs better. Thanks guys, as you can tell by the length of my signature... I'm very proud of my new Shee! Now I just gotta get her all tuned up!

Does anyone else find that this is too stiff... I changed to an extra long lever, but its still way too stiff... at least twice as stiff as my Shee with the stock clutch. Anyone know anything? Nghe