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Motor, pipes, filters and a-arms pending
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Ok guys, I was getting close to being done with my 4mil. project shee, unfortanately I need a new truck, so Ive got to get rid of some of my toys. I am selling everything to my banshee, and have enough stuff to build a whole bike. It pains me to see it go but here we go....
Here just some of the bigger things that im starting with first. All prices are plus shipping and 4% paypal fee, I am willing to work with you guys to help with shipping so resonable offers accepted.
Toomey T-5 pipes and silencers w/ a fresh 2 week old chrome colored cermaic coat, these things only had 20 mins of runtime on my old motor before I tore it down again (includes silencer screws and all o-rings) $375
Fully built 4mil. stroker motor. Parts in this thing include- Pro-design cool head with 21cc stroker cut domes, Agressive dune ported cylinders (done by wildcard racing) they also have a black ceramic coa on them, Wiseco 795 series pistons, 4mil. long rod stroker crank (true welded, with max load bearing), Black powder coated cases, ported reed cages with vitos carbon tech 2 stage reeds, boss 34mm intake w/ built in crossover, billet water pump impeller, ricky stator adjustable timing plate set at +4, tusk clutch kit w/ 3HD springs 3 stock springs, pancake bearing, the only thing you need is a clutch side gasket as I didnt get around to replacing it before I made this decision. This motor has no run time, I did a leak down test on it and it lost 1/2 PSI after 6 minutes. $1350
Kehein PJ 34mm carbs, black paint caps, and brand new still inplastic carb cables (not picturedd), you just need the screw in pieces that screw into the top of the carb. $185
Brand new K&N pods with outer wears, I belive they fit 33-36mm carbs (could be wrong, they fit the 34mm I got them for) $75
This is just a starter list, the frame, swing arm, axle, carrier, a-arms everything is for sale, so if you see something in these pics you want or are looking for something you dont see in these pics for something PM me I probably have it Some other things I know I have is off the top of my head is some wiseco STD. bore pistons with 20 minutes of run time, all the motor electronics, steering stem, radiator.... and a whole lot more! (The frame and all red/maroon parts are actually a dark maroon with a redish tint and have a color changing sparkle overlay)
here's a few more pics
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to me the type of system you get will all depend on what kind of games you mostly play. I have a 360 right now but like if I played sports games a lot i would want a PS3 just because Im more comfortable with the PS3 since Ive been a playstation guy since the first playstation came out.
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I ride between 600ft (wellsville, ohio) and 1200ft (youngstown, ohio) above sea level. I plan to run 93 octane.
Wellsville Is The Shit.
www.wellsvilletrails.com
I was running 20 cc domes on my trail ported motor with similar other mods to you at around the same elevation. If you want to be safe 21cc would be good.
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I think its pretty cool for them to develope the 2 into 1, if it works out it worls out, if it doesnt it doesnt. However, a lot of things we have today we wouldnt have if people hadnt tried something new, or tried to improve on an existing idea. I guess we will just have to see how it goes.
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It makes sense. Any rubber like material will absorb vibrations, so the extra weight combine with the silicone would absorb more of the vibrations. Its kind of the same concept as painting the inside of a boat or car with a rubberized coating to absorb motor vibrations
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PRM makes one google search PRM ATV, cuz I cant remember the website
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haha, it does take a little bit of time, patience and energy sometimes, lol.........good to see you back on mike.
Haha yeah it does. Thanks, I been pretty busy for a while, but I finally got back to working on the shee and messing aroung on the HQ. In fact Ill have the 4mil completely done in the next week or two and am hoping by December Ill have all the other parts to where Ill only have some cosmetic things like plastics to paint and seat cover left to do, realistically probably more like mid january though
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Thanks for straightening this topic out Heath. I figured you or Fouledout would do it. I just got tired of seeing him contradict everything we tried to tell him. Too much on my mind laltely and not a lot of patience haha. Good to see some of the old names around though
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Call any BHQ site sponsor they will hook you up. I've delt with Wildcard and there service is top notch
X4 Wildcard has excellent customer service, been dealing with them ever since I first came on BHQ about 3 years ago
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I was off of the HQ for a while, and once I came back I noticed there was a lot of new names I hadnt seen before, this isnt a bad thing, but I noticed along with it there has been a lot of BS since Ive came back to the site.... As far as the 4mil. thing, instead of trying to sort through the BS, just call Brandon at Wildcard, Jeff at F.A.S.T. or Kevin at Herr Juggs and ask them what you need to know.
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Over here in Australia im limited to what i can find for go fast bits for my Banshee.
Currently im running a Hotrods 4mm crank and rod with blaster 66.5mm pistons, coolhead, 34mm carbs and FMF fattys.
My water jackets are no longer big enough to handle the heat soak from the bigger bores and increased power.
Im at the stage where i want to buy some bigger bores for it.
Is there an off the shelf option that i can buy over the net?
Id prefer something that i can simply bolt to my cases, still run my 34mm carbs, pipes and use the cool head.
Il be using 98fuel (US93)and would like the domes to give the most for my fuel while at see level.
Il still be running the 4mm crank.
Currently i have 402cc and dont realy want to down size the bores as its not enough power at times already.
A bore size starting at 68mm would be very nice if the rest of my motor can support that (carbs and pipes)
Thanks in advance
Kingsley
Theres hundreds of options out there for you, best thing to do is email a reputable builder and talk to them about the best options for you based on what kind of riding you do
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I agree a cub is more expensive. But it is easier to pull the cylinder out of the box and put it on with no modification. I run stock drag ported cylinders with 66mm blaster pistons in my 4 mil. Stock cylinders have to have port work done on the exhaust regardless unless a stroker plate is used with a 4mil 115mm rod. The only way to run stock cylinders without any modification is to run a 4 mil 110mm rod with 795 pistons which have the exact same center pin location as a blaster piston with a different angle dome. Almost all aftermarket cylinders are set up for the 115mm rod so it's almost always better to buy the long rod crank in case you plan on upgrading down the road.
I know you have to have port work done regardless, I have a 4mil. However cubs are purpose built. And unless they are power valve cheetah cubs the power band is not great for trails or mild duning. Like I said it depends on what you are building the motor for and what your budget is. Normally people dont port it them selves thay send it to the builder in which case it is like having an out of the ox cylinder because you get it back and bolt it on.
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Regardless of the way you want to go you will have to have special domes or have your head rechambered. The reason for the spacer is to get the port timing correct. The plate is under $100 and thats why people use them. The plate is a poor mans build and usually leaks and the motor goes lean and thats all she wrote. The proper way would be to send the cylinders to a rep machine shope and have the cylinders ported for a 4 mil and then no stroker plate is required. Its about 3 to 4 times the price of the stroker plate. Last but not least you can run a stroker wiseco piston with a banshee stroker dome or blaster wiseco pistons with special cut domes. Keep in mind if you run blaster pistons with banshee domes your setting yourself up for disaster. They have different angle domes and I can't remember the angles off the top of my head,but they are different. Its a lot easier to build a stroker with cubs because they are designed for all different strokes. Also to run blaster pistons you have to go with a 115mm long rod. the stock 110mm with 4mil stroker crank will not work.
I dont agree with using a cub being easier because it is more expensive and while you can use cubs for anything, they are designed for drag racing and come stock with a drag race port on them. It all depends on what the motor is being build for. I should also add that you cant just buy a cub and use it for any stroke, what he means by they are designed for all different strokes is they have a cub cylinder for each stroke. As far as blaster pistons, thats a whole other subject. Blaster pistons are a larger than banshee pistons. If you want to run them you have to have your cylinders bored out quite a bit or run a cub cylinder. If you are on a budget or use to riding a stock or lightly modified banshee, then go with a 4mil stock cylinder bike for a while and if you want more power you can alway get a cub cylinder and new pistons down the road
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The difference between a normal 4mil. and long rod is on a long rod the piston rods are 5 millimeters longer, this helps reduces the side load on the piston, because when putting in a longer stroke you increase side load due to the angle of the rod. It is a long term reliability thing. As far as the rest of it, yes you need stroker pistons, Wiseco 795 series are what most people run. The spacer plate is a cheap way of doing it and is not recommended. The best way is have your cylinders ported for the longer stroke and have your domes cut or buy some stroker cut domes. I dont have the numbers on me as far as porting the cylinder for a stroker but any builder should be able to help you out.
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I personally havnt heard of it being in the bottom of the jug... I have heard of them porting the transfer ports so far that they weld on the outside of the jug to add extra material, so I personally would be a little skeptical, however I have been out of the banshee scene for a little while so Im not sure. Its possible that some of the drag quads could have this, someone should chime in with some better info.
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Theres no way in hell a set of spark plugs gives you about the same horse power gains as a set of pipes
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first thing would be check your plugs, also check to make sure your floats arent stuck
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hey guys just want to know what you guys think about getting a 392 big bore ported? or leave it as it is? cheers
Porting is never a bad idea if you want more power. It will wake your shee up quite a bit. Depending on the cylinders they may already have a port from the manufacture, like I believe the cub cylinders and such have.
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Do you still have the PJ 34's?
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This.
Porting the cages and adding boysens is a great alternative to VF3 reeds.
Might not get every last fraction of a horsepower, but the cagea, after ported allow almost 150% of the flow of the stockers.
If increasing flow is a waste of time, why do people buy aftermarket reeds??? For a bone stock engine with just pipes and filter, there may not be much to gain, but once you start adding porting/ bigger carbs it is well worth the time spent.
That is what I was saying. The guy above me said its a waste of time and I said I disagree... I know that Many builders that spend most of there time on banshees suggest that if you arent running an all out drag motor then just port your stockers because you dont need the VF3. As I said before I had ported cages on my trail ported motor, and I am porting a set for my 4mil. aggressive dune ported motor. I have had good luck with ported cages, as I have done them for a few YZ125's as well. Why spend more money on expensive reed set ups when you dont have to.
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As far as drag bike I believe most guys suggest going to alky. To do it you do have to bump the comp. a little more but that means more power. It is more maintainance for alky as im sure you know, but it seems to me that you dont really like running alky so why switch?
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Anything you do to change air flow will require a jetting change. As far as porting, there's more than one way to do it. While different builders claim different power increases with the ported cages, most of the power will be made by changing your reed petals, the porting is to accent the petals really. As far as a waste of time... I disagree. I have ported my cages for both motors Ive built. The first motor I ported them one way and the new 4mil. I ported them a different way. You have 3 basic options for reeds that most people choose for your banshee. VF3, porting with new petals, and the new one is the Chariot performance cages. I havnt heard much about the chariot reeds, although I know they have done their research with flow technology and have made a good product. I dont however know where their reeds make power. As far as the other 2 options, beings that VF3's are really made for top end, unless you have a drag bike porting your cages with new petals will work just as good, and since the petals are only $40 compared to $280 it costs for VF3's you can choose. On a side note I believe the Chariot cages are about $165
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Nice color... I think it adds a unique touch to it, like doing metallic paint on a car, its just takes it to e new level.
Got to go
in For Sale - Parts & Accessories
Posted
pipes andfilters still for sale.