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Posts posted by 278
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to do a stroker its a lot more than just get the crank and throw it together. To have a decent stroker set up here's a list of what youll need.... stroker crank, stroker pistons, aftermarket pipes, bigger carbs, cool head w/ stroker domes or stock head cut for the stroker, cylinders ported for the stroker and i would suggest little upgrades such as billet water pump impeller, pancake bearing, etc.
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How do strokers run with stok porting
they dont.... theyll start but you wont go any where fast
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Dude you live in Alaska theres a list of a few things that everyone does up here.... 1)drink or smoke pot(most of the time both), go play on our toys(which yours is apparently down right now) 3^^^^that, or fish.... take your pick haha
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Been using them for a few years now, awsome couple to work with, I recomend them to everyone
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what do you mean by external shift mechanism? if you mean the clutch assembly, yes.
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That's awsome man
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Nice Saigas in your sig picture bro
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I had mine done by a shop and when they were done i put a little grease in the ball joints with some new boots and they worked just fine... guess it just depends on how hot you cook them
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Nice steal. Yeah you can use the carbs and head on the 4mil build. It looks like the cylinders are stock, you asked why he would do that? well he did give you that thing for free when he could have parted it and made some money
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Sell the alky carbs and the t-5's and get some like 35 or 38mm gas carbs, and some CPI inframes. The +6 swinger can work it will just take some work as far as leaning forward and and working your clutch.
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start with the basics, is he getting fuel and spark in both cylinders.
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great idea man they look good. I like the idea of putting some low and full lines on there.
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Advancing your timing does help pretty well. Its really simple to do. You can either buy an adjustable timing plate or have your modified. To change the timing with an aftermarket timiing plate all you do is pull your stator cover(the cover on the side of the engine where the chain is) then pull your fly wheel wheel(its one nut) then then take the 3 screws out holding the timing plate, pull the screws holding your pickup and your wires down. Put the new plate in place and re-insert the 3 screws, before you tighten them down though line up where the cases split with the little +4 mark(i think the plate is numbered in increments of 5, so it will be the mark just before +5) then thighten your 3 screws down. Put everything back on the way it came off. Make sure you use some blue lock tight on all your screws and nuts. Should only take about 20 minutes. It could take longer though if its your first time.
As far as the crank you need a 4mil crank(preferably the 4mil long rod), stroker pistons (wiseco 795 series) your cylinders need to be ported for the crank, so you mise well select the port job you want (you can use a spacer plate instead of porting, but I dont recomend that) and you need to either have your stock head cut for the stroker crank or you need to get a cool head with stroker cut domes(I suggest the cool head because then you can change your compression by simply pulling of your head and it uses o-rings instead of gaskets so you dont have to replace them everytime you pull the head(although I would). Also your going to be feeding more motor now so you need to get bigger carbs, and if your not running in mud all the time you mise well get some pod filters to go with them. Another thing you never mentioned is whether you have the stock exhaust or not... If you do you need new pipes and I would suggest that you just start with the basics before going with a stroker. Start with pipes that will really wake up your shee, then when you want some more go with a timing plate, then a cool head with smaller domes to raise your compression, finally I would get it ported and see how you like it. You will be really surprised with hw much that does for your banshee(be sure to re-jet after changing pipes, or getting it ported). Hope that helps
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nice little car man. it will get you from point A to point B just fine and have a little fun in between.
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Hey chuy, I just thought about something. Send an email to john at JL engineering and see if he can powdercoat those for you. He's just up in apple valley, I believe. That would be way better than paint... Just a thought. Btw, you going to the night drags at dumont?
You can PC them, but it has to be the high temp PC pther wise it will melt the PC and then it gets sticky and dirty and what not gets stuck in your PC. I think they are limited on high temp PC colors like they only have black and maybe 2 others, but I could be wrong. Contact JL and see what they say
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Reliability and smothness a pump gas motor is the way to go. I know there has to be a point at which your motor reaches a flat line as far as compression. I havnt done a lot of research into it but I highly doubt that 185 is that flat line I have seen guys go as high as 210 with a banshee motor(especially for drag racing) and I want to say I have even seen some higher than that. I dont know what you do with your bike(as far as riding) but there some guys on here that run alky with high compression on there duners and love it. Ive seen it on a few trail bikes, but I wouldnt recomend it for trail use. It definitely is a popular thing with the drag guys. Idk who your builder is but I would call around to some of the other reputable builders that are on the forum and talk to them and see if your guy is just not wanting to fix his mistake because like I said I dont think at 185 your flat line as far as power, especially since drag bikes are build for top end, and alot of he guys on here run high compression drag bikes
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it will burn regular paint. You need to use high temp paint. I had some good luck with the VHT (very high temp) coating. I think dupli-color makes it, but you can get it at most aut parts stores. If im not mistaken they have black, white, blue, red and maybe even green.
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Pretty nice little how to video for those who are just starting out good job man
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Here's some more parts. I got these brand new metallic brake pads, never used. The packages has been opened but theyve never even been bolted to a caliper. $20 plus shipping. I also found these brand new never used hand grips there the 50/50 waffle/diamond design design. Id do $5 plus shipping
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stuffs still forsale. Dug up some other stuff, factory gas tank, factory radiator motor mount bolts. Still got a lot of stuff guys, let me know what you need
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Still a lot of parts guys... Got the frame, wishbone, stock axle, stock carrier with brand new bearigs and seals, a-arms, stock steering stem, engine electronics, pipes, stock airbox with cut lid, stock radiator, cut plastics... let me know what you guys need
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motor sold
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part it out!
I am, just not the motor haha.
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Motor still forsale
the shees gone...
in General Banshee Discussion
Posted
In a sense yes they are. If it was me I would rather go 250 2-stroke all day, but a lot of guys like the 4-stroke because the the power band attributes and they never stop pulling right up till you hit the rev limiter