Limited87

Im having an issue with my clutch guys. First off many years ago I replaced the metal ball that gets welded over to a Trinity ceramic ball. Everything has been fine since but the bike has low hours and wasnt ridden much since. It had some decent perf mods prior but now I have done some other signicant mods (ported cylinders, Keihn carbs, Cool head 18 cc domes, exc) and makes alot more power. I did replace the clutch with new fibers, bead blasted the steels and upgraded the springs to the heavy ones. Well now the clutch is doing the same identical thing it did back when the ball welded after a few rides. Clutch stays engaged and lever has no tension. Still seems to hold fine and shifts with out the clutch just crusing around. Any ideas before I tear it down what could be the prob this time? Thanks

I will inspect everything as you said and probably throw in a new clutch before I put it back together and see what we get with that. Thanks again guys for all your help and ideas.

Im about 3 hours from you in NE Ohio. :-) Thats what I was told. So whats your opinion? Dont ride the bike anymore till I tear it down and put a new crank in it? Or throw a new race clutch from FAST and nice basket and see how it goes with the current set up? I just rode it and even the clutch giving up alot it still feels nasty as hell...lol

Its great to know I havent done any damage to the crank or I would really see a problem. Maybe its just me but the bike has a diff sound than it had when it was first put together but maybe the rings are seating and changin it a bit. Yes, thats why I didnt want to run alot of compression. I figured with 19cc domes and a factory stock very low hour bottom end I would be ok. I dont have a problem running the U2 race gas as little as I ride it. The port job on these FTZ cylinders are really something as was told that the bike they came off of made 89 horse with 15 cc domes. The clutch is slipping very noticeable now only on its 4th gallon of gas. I knew it probably wouldnt hold the bike long and I havent done any mods to the fly wheel, only the clutch mods with the springs, bead blasted steels but that was WAY before this new cylinder/carb set up. The vibration ONLY occurs when you decell the engine a split second before it reurns to idle with the clutch pulled in or out it doesnt matter. If you rev it the motor is glass and lightning quick...its only on the decel just as it reutns to idle. This maybe basically normal and Im totally blowing things out of proportion but I didnt notice it when the new cylinders/pistons/carbs were first put on it but it may have been there but you guys have messed with these things way more than I have so I want your best opinions/ideas. Thanks for the help/replys guys!

Great, whats the next thing to look at? Could that vibration just before the bike returns to idle be normal? Whats the limits of horsepower not having the crank welded? I dont beat this thing up big hills or even trail ride it. I basically just rip around the yard and make some drag runs on the road.

I just did the compression test and was 160#s on both sides. Is this about right with 19cc domes with the pro design coolhead?

No info or opinions guys?

Hi guys, long time reader first time post. I have a 1996 banshee with a stock bottom end. The bike is original and has very low hours on it. I just recently put a set of fresh FTZ cylinders that are .20 over with Weisco pistons, coolhead with 19 cc domes(didnt want to put to much stress on the stock bottom end), 35mm Keihin carbs with FTZ carb mount filters. It has Toomey T5s, Vitos timing advance key and I have been running U2 VP 2 cycle race fuel thats rates at 101 octane. I am running upgraded clutch fibers with heavy duty springs and bead blasted steels. Heres the thing...the bike sound has changed and it has a vibration. When you crack the throttle at idle when it comes down just before going back to idle it vibrates and I didnt notice it when I first had it put it together but it may have been there but the sound of the bike has def changed. The clutch also seems to be giving up alot now where it wasnt on the first tank of gas. The cylinders were suposed to have made mid 80s horsepower with 16 cc domes on race fuel. I need opinions on this set up, the vibration, am I risking major damage with this crank not being welded? Could this be the issue with the sound changing?? Whats the limit on horsepower and a non welded crank? Any and all ideas/help is appreciated. Thanks